Swap to a dual master cylinder, none power

[Finally1]

Question on the Granada master cylinder . I measured the 57 master and the Granada master and there is about 1/2 inch difference where the travel starts . Is it necessary to space the master cyclinder out so the travel is the same ? I have mine together and not getting fluid out of the master . Im not sure if I got a bad part or if the 1/2 difference is causing me to actually be bypassing the front side of the master cylinder  . It a new Napa master and I have never had any issues with there hydraulics components via brake or clutch  . 

[RICH MUISE]

I've never done a master cylinder conversion, but I'm close to doing my first. Some of the more knowledgeable guys will chime in here I'm sure, but from what I've read there should be  a very small "free play" with the brake pedal before it contacts the master cylinder...1/8 or less if I remember. If your saying the piston is actually pushed in 1/2 " already with the pedal in full rest position, then I would think it has to be eliminated or your gonna lose 1/2" of stroke and it ain't all that long to begin with. Most of the guys have modified the rod connected to the pedal, either lengthening or shortening, to get that 1/8 of play I was talking about.
The guys in the know have also talked about bench bleeding the master before it is installed.

[Ford Blue blood]

The piston in the master cylinder MUST return to the stop as it would be with no push rod on it.  The push rod should have as small amount of play (1/32 - 1/16 is best) as possible with the brake pedal all the way up and it's return spring in place. 

While the piston is at the stop fluid is drained into the cylinder area from the reservoir, when you push the pedal down the port is closed off and pressure builds in the line operating the wheel cylinders.  When the pedal is released the piston slides back into it's rest location and the fluid that was pushed into the wheel cylinders will bubble back into the reservoir.

[Finally1]

Problem found prop valve was stuck and wouldn't let fluid come through . I didn't bench bleed the master since everything was new and didn't want to take a chance of getting fluid on anything. I took the master back off and bench bled it and put it back on and started checking for fluid at every connection . I wacked the pin on the prop valve and fluid started coming out the lines for the frt brakes all is well .