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custom machined dash panel

Started by RICH MUISE, 2014-10-07 13:25

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RICH MUISE

The machine shop called this morning..needless to say I was there in 20 minutes. I'm very happy with it. I can hardly wait to make it look pretty..polished bezel, painted back surface, etc. I've got to make the opening in the dash just a tad bigger...or I may just push it in real hard..will probably go with some coaxing....and I wouldn't have to figure a way to get it to stay in there. I also need to work the gauge hole sizes a tad so the housings go all the way in.
Second pic shows the panel just starting into the opening.
The machine shop charge was 250. if anyone was wondering. It was machined from 1" 6061-t6 aluminum plate
I was real happy to get it before leaving town in a few days..this and the battery box will be my first projects when I get back.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

djfordmanjack

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2014-10-07 13:25
or I may just push it in real hard..will probably go with some coaxing....and I wouldn't have to figure a way to get it to stay in there.

good work of the shop, Rich, but I wouldn't push the insert in the dash. all you will get is awful squeaking noise, as soon as the car is in motion or the sun (heat) is up ( dash and cowl area will always twist and move around a bit, causing the insert to come loose or at least produce disgusting sounds. open up the dash or better sand down the insert so it will go in without binding and then either use body sealer or good engine gasket sealant to keep it in place. best way though would be a rubber grommet and 2 or 4 studs with nuts, much like the original insert.

clusterbuster

Nice work Rich. You really have a custom rod waiting to burn up the road. Can't wait to see it all done.

Clusterbuster Don

RICH MUISE

Thanks for the ideas, DJ, and the compliment, Don
Pat...PM sent
for others wanting info on the machine shop...it's
Lone Star Machine
10501 FM 1541
Amarillo, Tx79118
806-622-5106
Matt Baker
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

hiball3985

Pretty slick, looks like they did a nice job of the machining..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Ecode70D

That looks  real nice Rich.
FWIW  DJ is a professional special interest auto builder over there in Austria.  That's a country that hates old cars and they make life real difficult for old car people.  Jay

RICH MUISE

Thanks guys. I spent a few hours getting everything to fit, and work on the finish a bit. The unpolished back surface will probably end up being painted...not sure now...kinda like the look of the satin/skotchbrited. I discovered the shop that machined it altered my design a bit, which was the reason it wouldn't fit the dash opening.
I've got to add some holes for high beam indicator, maybe some idiot lights, and the push button switch for the speedometer/odometer. I don't want to paint, if I do, until after the additioal holes are done.
I'll probably end up making a bracket to hold in the panel from the back, for now I'll leave it loose until the in and out for wiring is done. For the wiring, I'm going to run everything thru connectors so I can just unplug the panel for removal if needed.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

Rich, just a thought but even installing or removing the stock panel is a PITA with the nuts on the bottom studs, I've had to remove mine twice. I was thinking of using some type of adhesive that could be easily  popped loose when need, similar to the stuff for holding things in place for earth quakes and I don't recall the name. And adding an additional ground wire may be necessary.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

RICH MUISE

I've got to take a look up there from underneath to see what I can do to make it easily accessible. My original thought was to drill some mounting holes thru the side wall of the panel so it could be removed from the front. Hard thing about that is I'd like the screws to be c'sunk heads, and I'm not sure if I'll be able to find a back countersinking tool to do that.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe