Evapo-Rust

[Jeff Norwell]

Bought some tonight.

[LAUDY57]

Another way for removing rust is electroysis, lots of vids on Youtube
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=removing+rust+with+electrolysis

I saw an old link several years ago and the only limiting factor for size of object was the size of the container to hold it. Usually the chemicals used can be bought at a pool supply place and are quite cheap, you do need DC power however from a big charger or welder.

[Limey57]

I've been restoring old cars for nearly 28 years now and I've seen various "rust-gone" products come & go over the years, but for me sand blasting is still the most effective way, followed by an epoxy primer.  Drill mounted wire brushes (the cheap ones) just bend the tips and actually polish the rust rather than remove it.  Some of the rust-convertor products work okay but don't take some paint systems over the top very well.  One product I have used that does leave metal sand-blast clean is made by Bilt-Hamber (German I think) and is called De-Ox gel and has a thick consistancy, you spread it onto a panel and cover with polythene to prevent it drying out and leave it for 24 hours.  When you scrape it off (it can be re-used) the metal looks like it's been blasted clean and it leaves no residue.

[djfordmanjack]

Drill mounted wire brushes (the cheap ones) just bend the tips and actually polish the rust rather than remove it. 

absolutely true, they just polish the clean metal over the rust spots, which will come up to the surface again later on. besides that the smooth surface isn't good for holding the primer. maybe we use the same German rust removal gel. Unfortunately we can hardly get over the evapo rust to Europe. I would have tried a gallon today. soaking the pinball chrome legs in the tube sounds great. there are many parts and areas on our cars to use such products.

[Limey57]

There used to be a spindle wire brush (for drills) available that had the wires bonded in a type of soft resin so the wire tips were held at 90 degrees to the panel surface (I think it was called a mule-skinner) and they were really effective and used to scratch the surface up really well for paint adhesion.  I bought a set from a swap-meet a few years back and have been looking for some more ever since.

[RICH MUISE]

reversible drill...once the wires get bent over, just reverse the direction and it digs in really well. you can just keep doing that til the brush is worn out.

[Limey57]

Yep, that works but avoid the el-cheapo wire brushes as they seem to be softer than the rust and end up breaking the bristles off embedding them in your hands or any other body parts that happen to be in the firing line!

[Zapato]

Even the good ones will throw a missile but not as much as the cheap ones. Wouldn't think of doing any wire brushing without at the very least leather gloves and a face shield.

Zap-

[Limey57]

Agree 100%, we only get one pair of eyes, we need to preserve them!

[Zapato]

Agree 100%, we only get one pair of eyes, we need to preserve them!

My daughter is an eye tech you wouldn't believe the stories she tells....

[Wirenut]

I too have used the Evap o rust and have been amazed at the results. The only bad thing about it is it will evaporate if the container you are using to soak the parts in is left open, and once it has been used a time or two it seems to diminish in strength. I used to put all of my bolts and nuts in a tumbler but since I found out about evap o rust I haven't used the tumbler at all. I did do a car hood treatment using plastic sheeting and a pump and as long as the part being treated is wet with solution it works great but is the solution dries on your part or let evaporate it leaves a thick coating like molasses on the part. Another good thing about the product is once you treat a part and the rust has been removed you have a pickled affect for weeks without that part rusting again if you do not paint or primer right away..
Great stuff..

[lalessi1]

I noticed the pickling effect too.