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that old patina

Started by Swank, 2017-02-21 14:34

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Swank

howdy,

after a full day of moderate rubbing, got some color to come out from under the orange.  so currently I am thinking of keeping the original paint on this thing, at least for the time being.  I think I can coax some more paint out, but don't want to get too abrasive and start knocking it off instead.  so a few questions.

1. whats the best method to get to the actual paint? (I steel wooled a couple small areas, don't know if that's a good overall plan),

2. ...the best way to get the actual rust flakes off (it's got a few deep rashes) without scratching it up?, (should/can the hood or roof be sanded or polished to get it smoother without hitting the bare metal? ...and with what?),

3. ...and whats the best way to protect the body after getting it smooth to stop it from further rusting (humidity is always way high)?


if anybody has some 57's in their patina'd form, i'd be interested in seeing some photos.

here's the latest
-Eugene

'57 Fairlane Town Sedan
"...paint it black, put it back!"
_________
1964 Ford Fairlane 500 (goner)
1970 Ford Torino (goner)
1976 MGB (goner)
1988 Chevy Suburban (goner)
1966 Volkswagen (goner)

rmk57

Iv'e heard of clear coating over top of cars like yours to preserve whats there. I wouldn't invest a lot of time trying to get more color from it, just wire brush the bad spots, wipe it down with reducer and clear coat.
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

djfordmanjack

#2
 :hello2:  :041: :hello2: 8)

WOW, Incredible ! Well worth the effort!!!
Try Owatrol Oil for sealing. It works with rust instead of just sealing it like clear coating. Try a good rubbing compound like 3M for polishing. It will get most of the surface rust off as well.

RICH MUISE

If it were mine, the first thing I'd try is a zinc-phosphate etching treatment. I'll try and find something similar to what you have ....painted, but rusty, and try it out. My preference is the por-15 metal ready. It not only should kill the rust, but give it some protection as well.
Not too many of us here are going to be experienced trying to get off rust, but leave the paint.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ecode70D

   Your car looks great.  Can't wait to see what kind of solutions the guys come up with.  Good to see
that you are trying to keep that nice look.
 

Swank

thanks for the ideas,

looked into the owatrol some.  if it doesn't change the color too much, it looks like the way to go. ive never heard of that stuff before.  I have some ospho, don't know if that's zinc-phosphate, or if that's different than the phosphoric acid in ospho, but it turns rust black.  if im going to keep the patina, it needs to stay that bronz'ish color.  on certain things ospho hasn't effected the paint, unless the paint was loose/flakey to start off with. after it dries you have to wash it off before painting on it though.  it doesn't say that part on the bottle, that I remember.

im not sure if I have paint under the rust on the hood, trunk, and roof, and just using a cloth was trying to scratch stuff up from having picked up little flakes of rust. id like to get these areas a little more smooth. are you talking about using a rubbing compound on the full-out rust looking areas? 
also on polishing rust, I've seen some people (u-tubers) go to town with CLR, some get the paint to come through and knock the rust back a little, and some get straight to bare metal where there was rust.   anyone mess with that stuff?  not looking for a silver car.
-Eugene

'57 Fairlane Town Sedan
"...paint it black, put it back!"
_________
1964 Ford Fairlane 500 (goner)
1970 Ford Torino (goner)
1976 MGB (goner)
1988 Chevy Suburban (goner)
1966 Volkswagen (goner)

djfordmanjack

#6
Keep the rust !
I mean, take the surface rust down to the og paint. I am sure there is 85% og paint underneath what has turned brown.
the rest of the rust will get sealed by Owatrol. the more suede rusty, the better it works.
My friend Fred from Berlin has sealed his og paint 1940 Plymouth with Owatrol several times. it looked like yours in the beginning. he cleaned the car to the point where all og paint was out. then you have to wipe it down with a Owatrol soaked rag or very thinnly apply with a brush. the layer needs to be THIN to dry, Owatrol is like varnish! My friend did it several times after a year's time. Owatrol is only slightly yellowish, it works with rust, seals it off perfectly. it is mostly used for it's penetration efforts. it is perfect for double layer seams. door skins and hoods on frames and the like. I am going to seal an og paint motorcycle exactly that way in spring.
I am so glad you are keeping the paint. it is a once in a lifetime chance and your car just has the look for it. It is all og , perfectly faded and it will not look artificial. it's just an old car ! :003:

SkylinerRon

In the old days we used to scrub old finish with Comet cleanser and a through rinse.
It may not be abrasive enough in todays formula.

Ron.

RICH MUISE

The Metal Prep(zinc phosphate etch) I recommended is not going to work for you. I found my spare vent grille...looked like your car. Anyway tried it..kept it wet for 20 minutes or so. didn't do diddly, so I soaked a paper towel with the stuff and let it sit overnight. As expected, it removed the surface rust, but also lifted the paint......not what's wanted in your case.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

djfordmanjack

unfortunately most of the rust removers ( as well as molasses and vinegar acid) will also lift the paint because of the slightest surface rust that is on most any steel even before painting.

Swank

Yeah, I am definitely thinking the owatrol direction for protection.  Kept an eye out for some around town while out and about, but looking like I'm going to have to order it.   Current plan to lessen the rust is to try some diluted CLR in a low visibility area before getting too crazy, dont let it sit too long, rinse it quick, see how that goes.  If that bombs, might try some comet.  Don't want to seal rust thats sitting on top of paint. 

Thanks for checking on that phosphates.  Good to know.  I've only used ospho sparingly, guess not enough or long enough to pull paint.

Probably start a "build thread" (for lack of better definition) soon.
Pulled most the insides out.  Carpet was just dust and strings in the shape of carpet. Headliner would rip and fall out if you looked at it.
Cowl tubes look like a wad of black play-doh.

Got pics, whether good or bad of everything.
Thanks again for all the info on this.


-Eugene

'57 Fairlane Town Sedan
"...paint it black, put it back!"
_________
1964 Ford Fairlane 500 (goner)
1970 Ford Torino (goner)
1976 MGB (goner)
1988 Chevy Suburban (goner)
1966 Volkswagen (goner)