operating temperature for a 292Y block/Auto

[djfordmanjack]

What are your opinions on coolant operating temperature for a 1957 292 with Auto trans? Does it like to run rather cool or rather hot, or right in the middle.
We were having overheating problems on the highway and need to replace the radiator (partly clogged). also replacing the thermostat (formerly a 160deg) so need to make a decision what to use.

[gasman826]

The Raunch Wagon's 292 w/FOM was trashed long before I got it.  When I got the car, cleaned out the back and found a couple of half used gallons of coolant.  The water pump leaked, the top of the radiator was cracked and the heater core leaked.  So I replaced all the hoses, thermostat (165), water pump (standard), and radiator (aluminum).  The temp gauge ran about 1/3 before repairs and a 1/4 after.  The temp gauge would climb at long idle periods before repairs but not after repairs.  The system was full of rusty coolant and chunks of rust.  I flushed and flushed until it seemed to be clean but it wasn't enough.  I just changed to 351w.  Before reinstalling the radiator, inspection found little chunks of rust.  So I again cleaned the radiator until I couldn't get anymore chunks out of it.  The 351w has a 185 degree thermostat and an electric fan set to cycle between 180-190.  The gauge reads 3/4 with the engine idling for more than 45 minutes.  The coolant temp (thermometer in the radiator) reads 185-190 with the fan cycling on and off.
It is sooo much easier to maintain a cooling system rather than clean the rust and corrosion from a nasty one.

PS When I tore the 292 down for rebuild, the heads were cracked.  A couple gallons of good quality coolant (and distilled water) every 2-3 years is a whole lot cheaper all the pieces and parts that were changed.  Once the system is dirty, its always compromised until all components are replaced and the block and heads cooked.

[hiball3985]

G, this is a tough question, almost like asking what color socks should I wear  the opinions will vary. I have read on other forums that people have been using 180. I use a 180 in mine and after 8000 miles I have had no issues and I run in some pretty hot temps during the summers here. I also went to a 180 in my 223 six cylinder truck 20 years ago. I just feel like with todays oils that are designed to run at higher temps there isn't an issue, but thats just my opinion. A side benefit is the heater works much better on those frosty days 

The question for me is why did Ford use a 160? I've never found that answer so I don't know. Tearing down engines back in 60's I think a combination of the crapy oils and lower operating temps is why sludge was king... In an ideal world I think I would use a 170 but there isn't one.

[lalessi1]

Technically an internal combustion engine is more efficient at higher temperatures. Newer engines typically operate at 195 degrees as a thermostat setpoint. Older engines were operated typically at 180 degrees as a rule and in my experience with FEs, they seem to like that as a max. I have run a 160 thermostat before but the coolant system won't hold that temperature. I would use a 180 personally. I am not running one at all at the moment, my engine seems to run best at 160-170. When I finally get my fan shroud I may try a 160...

[59meteor]

Personally, on these old carburated engines, I normally use a 160 thermostat. Yes, modern engines do run much hotter , but they have to meet emission standards, plus have computer control timing and fuel injection to constantly "fine tune" the engines operations. I like to see running temps around 170-180, which leaves some margin if you get stuck in gridlock on a hot day, if you are already at 210 or so, not much "room"  for getting trapped in a long line up. Modern engines may well be more efficent at higher temps, but they also don`t have to condent with fuel percolation or vapor lock like a carbed engine. Pretty hard to compare a new car to a 60 year old car.
Also, some people will talk about increased engine wear  at cooler engine temps, but I also have the old Sealed Power paper on that study, yes, the engine wear was noticably higher at very low temps (80 to 120 F), but any differance was minimal above 140 or so. As an example, in 1990, I bought a used 390 from a 1976 Ford F250 PU truck, did a quicky overhaul, (ball honed the bores, installed new cast rings on the factory pistons, new cam & lifters, valve job etc), and I put that 390 in my 1974 F350 ramp truck, and hauled my drag race cars all over the West Coast from 1990 until I sold the truck in 2014. In all the time, the engine had never smoked, rattled, or needed any oil added between oil changes, even on a 2500 mile, all freeway round trip haul from home in BC Canada to Sonoma California & back, at outside temps of up to 114 F. And since I sold the truck to another local drag racer, I see it at our local dragstrip on a regular basis. In fact, over the winter, he replaced the valve cover gaskets, and said it was still spotlessly clean inside. Not too bad for a 46 year old engine that still has the   46 year old pistons running in the original bores.

[djfordmanjack]

thanx guys, lots of great info! I was also wondering why there was nothing between a 160 and 180 degr thermostat.
I'll probably stick with the 160F and try improving cooling with further acid cleaning the engine, checking the water pump and maybe adding an electric fan. I also feel that the Y block seems running better at lower temperatures (like 170? or slightly lower than half of temp gauge)

[Ford Blue blood]

Good friend runs a 312 with air in his black 57 all day long with a 180 T-stat.  He ran the car in last years Road Tour down through TX and points between in the heat with no problems.

As Gary said, the system needs to be clean and maintained.  I do not depend on the instrument cluster to tell me if it is too hot.  The gauge will find it's own "normal" when at operating temperature.  Get it hot and measure the temperature at the top of the radiator with an infrared gun.  That way you know exactly what the water temperature is.

I do have one more rule....if it ain't loosing water it ain't overheating.....