What is the Best product and method, to repair cracks in a Steering Wheel?

[KYBlueOval]

I'm looking for advice from Forum members on the best product and method, to repair cracks in a steering wheel. I have a '57 T Bird wheel that has the usual cracks where the spokes meet the wheel. My thought is to use a Dremel tool to open the crack, and undercut it so the filler is "locked in"......so to speak.
So what is the experience of the Forum members in regards to the best product to use and the best way to prepare the crack for the filler.
Thanks
John

[RICH MUISE]

Hey John...........I would use one of two things. Por15 makes a kneading 2 part putty similar to the brand everyone is familiar with, just can't remember the name right now. I used it for years to repair ornate picture frames. Has about an hour working time so you can get it pretty close to final surface to minimize sanding. With that said, Pat Fleishman uses 3M panel bond adhesive and has had great results with it. Being an adhesive, you wouldn't need to undercut as you were thinking. I've seen alot of photo heavy threads on it, and none I've seen did the undercuting, just widened the crack to a V shaped.
I used the panel bond for my roof gutters, and was realy happy with the workability of that stuff, and very easy to sand. The downside with the panel bond is the initial expense as it requires a special gun. Most I found were in the 80. range, but I did find one locally for 65. I think the panel bond itself is 35ish.

[suede57ford]

The key to making a lasting repair on a steering wheel is:

a) The cracks must be V'd to the "bottom" of the crack. If you leave a hairline crack underneath it will ghost thru or re-crack.  You must undercut and "V" out often to the core to get to the bottom of the crack or it will crack again later.

b) Use an epoxy such as 3M 8115 Panel Bond Adhesive (PBA).  You could use JB WELD is its a small area, but you must follow step "c)"  with the fibers for any product to work long term.

c) Add chopped up fiberglass fibers into the wet Panel Bond Adhesive.   This is what keeps it from cracking again.  The fibers add strength.    Imagine a small cup of cured fiberglass resin with no fibers, crack easily, then compare to fiberglass resin with the fiberglass mat and fibers added.  Super strong.    Same applies to adhesives.  Simply chop up some fiberglass mat with scissors and sprinkle into a pool of PBA on a bondo board and mix together.    You must wet the crack with wet panel bond first to get down in the cracks then spread the fiber mixed PBA over the wet PBA adhesive.  It's going to spread kinda stringy the first application of PBA with chopped fibers, but focus on filling the gaps.   

Sand and shape the cured adhesive mix on the wheel with 80 Grit.   You can refill with and lows and pinholes with just straight PBA for the rest of the repair. Get to 180 grit then 320 grit before priming.  The finer the grit the less shrinkage later

d)  You must use a high quality urethane two part primer.   I personally use a colored primer.  If it's going to be a black wheel I use black primer.   My personal reference is SW P30B primer the "B" is black in color.

e)  When it comes time to paint you need to use a two part urethane paint with hardener.  Don't waste you time with spray cans. 

I've done several articles on this in past so you may find more training information from me on this site.

[KYBlueOval]

Thanks! to you PanHandle guys for some excellent advice.
John

[RICH MUISE]

LOL........I'm still trying to get these native Texans straightened out. We don't live in a panhandle, we live under one. Just have to look at a map. I'm working just as hard letting the Dallas/FW folks know they don't live in NORTH Texas, even though that's what they've been told all their lives.

[KYBlueOval]

Rich..........I stand corrected sir!