install a 2 quad on a 312 with 3/4 cam

[geraldchainsaw]

its that time of year,  boredom,   was thinking of putting a 2 quad on the 312 with a 3/4 cam,   any suggestions or ideas out there.?,   and where would i start looking for the intake?,  is it just a boredom thought ,  wasting my time or what?,  thanks for what u might think,    jerry

PS,  i guess i said it wrong,  it already has a 3/4 cam

[lalessi1]

Here is an old Edelbrock  manifold on eBay, pricey but they are around...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FM257-Vintage-edelbrock-intake-manifold-Y-block-Ford/183580608017?hash=item2abe41c611:g:GgcAAOSwD9pbbNme:rk:5:pf:0


Look at these cams, Y265S or Y270S on Mummerts website.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/valvetrain.htm


I don't know a lot about Y-blocks but I am mentally building another FE as a mental exercise! Have fun!



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[hiball3985]

Putting a cam in a Y is no easy project. Best done with engine removed and upside down and with a new cam you will need new lifters, more easily done with the crank removed. There are work arounds but none easy.

[Ecode70D]

  What Jim said about the cam X2.  Changing a Y block cam with the engine in the car and right side up is not a fun job.
   About the dual quads.  I'm getting ready to remove my dual quads so I can replace my leaking valley cover gasket. When I open it up, I just might install my stock 4 barrel intake and put the dual quad setup away.
   Because of the gas prices, I might be inclined to take more trips with the 4 barrel carb on the engine.  I had my fun with the dual quads for a few years now , but I'm not going to sell them.  I might reinstall the dual quads in a couple of years.

[Lou]

I have a factory 2 x 4 intake that has a crack in the bottom at the center, easy fix for someone who can weld alum, will not show with manifold on car. (my welder retired I've had 4 or 5 of the cracked factory manifolds repaired this way with no problems) $200.00 including shipping in lower 48.

[suede57ford]

Dual Quads look great on '57's since it was a factory performance option.   The main reason to add them would be looks as the improvement in performance is not that large unless you take time to really dial them in.   Add a wide-band fuel ratio meter to help get the carbs tuned properly.  The new widebands A/F ratio meters around $180 now and really easy to wire in.   You can remove the meter after you get it worked out.  I mount them in a chrome autometer cup so they can be clamped to the steering column similar to an old school tach.    Without a meter you will be guessing and often both mileage and performance will not be maximized.  T-Pots are not really difficult to tune with a little understanding.   I have found that the lightest spring in holleys aftermarket secondary spring kit is necessary to get secondaries to come open soon enough.  That means you have to buy two spring kits to get two of the lightest.   The factory E-Carbs have a small fitting sticking out of the back of the carb that can connect both secondary circuits with a small hose.  You can add that fitting to any teapot and it makes it look more legit and balances the opening of the secondaries.  A little time tuning and the e-code set-up will run better than the original small 4-barrel.  Don't try to hook up the vacuum advance with non-E-code Teapots.  The vacuum advance is only necessary for mileage at highway speeds and has no affect on performance with '57 up dist.   

The correct E-code air cleaner really sets of the set-up but is the difficult and expensive item, but in my opinion worth it.

As far as a cam change, be very careful here.   Your convertible is very heavy and a y-block is very small on both cubes and compression so going even a little aggressive on a cam will make a very disappointing car to drive.    Something from Mummert that adds torque is what you need.   Also you increase a risk for cam failure any time you break in a camshaft nowdays.  Failure rate on new camshafts is extremely high no matter what brand and how careful you are. Make sure to use a true "break-in oil" not just additive and it better have good oil pressure and be ready to run a 2000 rpm the instant it fires.   I may be over cautious on cam  break-in, but even the pro builders loose a cam and lifters occasionally nowadays.

I would try to install and tune the Dual Quads first.  Get them dialed in a 100%, then if you decide that you need to upgrade the cam, you are making only one change on an already good running engine and the cam break-in is more likely to be successful without trying to do an initial run on multiple new systems.