57 Custom 300 Body Off

[mustang6984]

My mom told me about running the Peak in an Austin Healy when she was in her early 20's...when it was a nasty road with few if any safety barriers and in some places no asphalt.
I would like to take my '88 Saleen on that run...

[fdlrc]

Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s

[hiball3985]

Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s

WOW!!!! Now thats my idea of fun. Now I'm thinking of how to put a handbrake set up in the 57 and wishing I was 40 years younger

[mustang6984]

Check out Ken Block's climbkhana video in his Mustang: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg6L_7qLIEQ&t=78s

Ah...just a nice Sunday drive in the mountains on a sun drenched afternoon!   

[fdlrc]

A steering brake is SO MUCH FUN to drive. I had a VW off-road racing buggy (all tube frame) that I raced in the 70s; probably half of the steering was done with the steering (hand) brake. So fun to pitch it hard into a corner, lock up one of the rear wheels, and BAM, you're facing the other way without turning the steering wheel.

[fdlrc]

I finally got my Vintage Air Gen lV heat/AC system charged and up and running. It sure runs nice, at least one day in. For reference: I get 44 degrees out of center vent with outside temp of 83.

I had a couple issues (not Vintage Air's fault by the way) that their tech department was super helpful in getting me squared away!

[RICH MUISE]

Not for the faint hearted. I have an ex-uncle who delivered the monument at the top of pikes peak in a big rig!
I think I saw my old house way down below, lol.
Les.....we can compare notes whenever I finally get there to figure out why my VA doesn't get cold enough.

[fdlrc]

Vintage Air Gen lV

Rich,
134a refrigerant charge is 1.8 lbs or 28.8 oz
High-side psi: 160-270
Low-side psi: 10-20 in a steady state
Center duct temp w/blower on medium speed, engine 1500 RPM: 42-44 degrees with 80-85 outside temp

Calibration procedure:
How To Calibrate A Gen IV 3-Lever/Knob Control Panel

On Vintage Air Gen IV systems using factory controls, the control panel will need to be calibrated to ensure proper function. The following procedure will work when calibrating Gen IV control panels with 3 levers or knobs (Blower Speed, Mode, Temperature), and may be repeated as many times as necessary to get it right.
Before beginning, attach the white jumper supplied with your control panel kit to a suitable chassis ground within easy connection distance to the gray programming wire located in the main Gen IV wiring harness next to the compressor relay.

Calibration Procedure

1. Turn on the ignition switch (do not start the engine).

2. Move the (3) control panel levers or knobs to the following positions:
a.   Blower Speed: HIGH
b.   Mode: DEFROST
c.   Temperature: HOT

3. Connect the white jumper wire to the gray program wire. Wait for the blower speed to momentarily change (approximately 5 seconds).

4. Move the (3) control panel levers or knobs to the following positions:
a.   Blower Speed: LOW
b.   Mode: DASH
c.   Temperature: COLD

5. Disconnect the white jumper wire from the gray program wire. The blower speed will momentarily change again, indicating completion of the calibration procedure.

6. Confirm proper operation of the controls. Repeat the procedure if necessary. When finished, tape over the program wire connector with electrical tape to prevent accidental contact with chassis ground.

[RICH MUISE]

Well, not to hijack your thread Les, but I finally got to spend an hour on the A/C. First of all, after thinking about the build sequence/time line on mine, I'm 98% sure I never calibrated the control panel. Secondly, I went through my Vintage Air instructions, and never saw anything about calibrating. Only a note on the wiring schematic about "the gray wire  is used for programming controls if applicable". The instructions you provided are in neither of the two copies of installation instructions I have.
It took a while but I think I found the wire. It was near the compressor relay, as stated by VA, and it was a very light gray (almost looks white with a light shining on it). It also had a pink female connector. Gary had said it was a gray wire with "a pink end", so I'm pretty sure I found it. I may have a stab at calibrating tonigh or tommorrow, or just let my A/C guy do it Tuesday.
I did pick up a thermometer like yours, btw, and got an identical 68* reading.

[fdlrc]

I think you are on the right track.

Those instructions didn't come with mine either, but after talking with VA tech, I was able to find them. As good as you are at sorting things out, you shouldn't have any issues doing this. I had to do a trial run, and I still did it wrong. No problem though, the ECU is forgiving, just have to start over. You cab re-run it as many times as it takes.

[RICH MUISE]

What issues were you having, and was it  the reprogramming that solved it? I'm not sure what I'm looking for as far as changes, other than the obvious cold. Everything seems to be functioning correctly other than actual temperature.

[fdlrc]

No issue other than the ECU has to know the limits (high to low) of each switch. So maybe your ECU doesn't know the limits for your temperature, but it does for fan speed and the mode switches. If you don't know it is calibrated right, working on the rest of the system, well, you might be chasing rabbits.

[RICH MUISE]

gotsha....thanks

[brushwolf]

What is the story on your headlights and parking lights on at the same time? They have dual filament bulb/sockets in them so turn signals work same as the rear?

[Ford Blue blood]

I have mine wired so they are on when the key is in the run position.  To keep/help the ignition switch from failing due to an increase in load the ACC and Run terminals turn on relays.  I just fed a fuse  and wired the tail/license and park lights to that fuse.  Turn signals are wired in as normal and work as normal.