News:

Check out the newsletters posted at our main club site:  http://57fordsforever.com

Main Menu

How to remover upper rear main seal

Started by BP57CUSTOM, 2019-06-11 18:49

Previous topic - Next topic

BP57CUSTOM

I am in the process of replacing the rear main seal on my 312. The engine is in the car.  The lower retainer and seal came out with no problem but I am having trouble getting the top seal out. It is a rope seal . I have never done this before ,I made a nylon punch of the appropriate size and tried to hammer it out, the nylon punch didn't last long and the seal is still in there. I tried pulling it out with needle nose pliers but that just pulls threads out. I have been told to run a sheet metal screw into it (carefully) and try to pull it out that way. has anyone tried that? I saw on this forum before to drive it out with a rod but I am afraid that would damage the crankshaft. Does anyone have another solution. Thanks
Barry
1957 Custom 300
1965 Mustang GT
8N ford Tractor

thomasso

Oftentimes one has to loosen the crankshaft.  Yes a punch is the way to go being careful not to damage the seal surface after getting it out a ways pull with pliers  Do not even attempt to use a modern non asbestos seal as its almost impossible to cut them properly way up in the block even with engine on stand and the modern rope seals do not cut nicely.  Either use a vintage asbestos seal or a neopreme one from Mac's or Just Gaskets.  Check your lower seal retainer for cracks.  If using a rope seal you will need a Sneaky Pete to pull top half in
57 E Code Black 76B   55 Willys Aero   63 Rivera   99 Lightning  1- XK8 Convs.   05 Vanden Plas  etc.

BP57CUSTOM

Thanks Tom , I will try again today.  I have a neoprene one ordered from Mummert ,it should be here Friday maybe.
Barry
1957 Custom 300
1965 Mustang GT
8N ford Tractor

gasman826

I've used the screw thing.  You might try rotating the crank while pulling on the seal.


BP57CUSTOM

I got it out !  That screw thing from summit probably would have helped. I used a sheet metal screw and carefully ran it in a little and pulled it out bringing out a few threads with each pull. I also hammered in a piece of stiff wire on the other end of the seal. after about ten screws and pulls the remaining piece about 2 1/2" came out in one piece. Now to see if I can get the new neoprene seal in when it arrives in two or three days.
Thanks to all
Barry
1957 Custom 300
1965 Mustang GT
8N ford Tractor

BP57CUSTOM

An update on my rear main oil seal. My new rubber seal from Best Gasket Engineering has been installed for two weeks today. So far I am very happy with the outcome. I had never done one of these before and was afraid I would have a gusher when I cranked it up. I waited 48 hours after the seal was installed before I put in oil and started the engine. I wanted to give the RTV time to cure. Also the actual installation of the seal went better than I was expecting, I applied some white grease to the seal and got it started in and then pushed the end that was still out. I used a pull handle and socket on the engine balance and turned the engine some and pushed the seal with the rubber handle of a pair of pliers. In a few minutes I had it in. I had been running Valvoline 30wt Racing oil and had been running about 10 pounds of oil pressure idling with engine hot. This time I put in Valvoline Racing 20w50. The first time I started it ,I quickly got out and looked under the car. No leak ! Let it run fifteen minutes and shut it off. The next day went for a short drive , still good. I have driven it four times now with no leaks. To day the temperature is 89 degrees went to town made two stops plus three or four red lights. when I got home it was idling with 20lbs of  oil pressure and no drips. I'm Happy ! Thanks you Lord ,  and friends
Barry
1957 Custom 300
1965 Mustang GT
8N ford Tractor