Wagon, Ranchero Rear Axle width 57.25 What is the width of all other models?

[KULTULZ]

Here is a source (I hope) of the SW-RHT rear brake drum - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Drum-1957-1959-Ford-Retractable-Wagon-NEW-/312279180697

I would ask the name of the manufacturer, country of origin and return policy.

Hope this makes up for my dumb-a$$ mistake above.

[mustang6984]

RE: your "egg shape" problem on the bracket...can you make it perfectly round...then cut a piece that will fit in the newly made hole,, and weld it in...grind it down and then re-drill it? Just a thought.

[brushwolf]

That is a good idea actually. Could have tack welded a piece, perhaps a very large washer centered over the hole, use a. carbide to make egg-shaped hole closer to round, then a multi-bit to expand the centered hole large enough to accommodate an insert with correct size center hole, perhaps a piece of seamless pipe, a large rod or bolt drilled dead center, cut to thickness on band saw, weld it on both sides, grind it down and no evidence of any repair.

However after a few days and no suggestions made, I ground both sides clean, found and cut out some tabs of some metal the same gauge and drilled a hole the correct size, sanded it down good thinking I would just get longer bolts if necessary...  But when the bolt and nut were installed to position the piece, it now looks like the threads on the new bolt are actually long enough to still get the locking nuts on with a few threads to spare.

Thinking that when I removed them that they were not fully tightened down cuz I knew that I would be dropping axle and springs later (25 years later it turns out...).  So, I did have some unused threads yet to utilize. I did the same with the front suspension rebuild cuz I read somewhere not to fully torque the A-arms bushing bolts until the full weight of the assembled car rests on them to avoid over-taxing the rubber in them.

Anyway, I tacked these small plates in place (both sides of frame so they are the same...), removed the bolt to make sure the new hole had aligned with what appeared to be the original perimeters of the old hole, then fully welded the plates around their perimeter. This should work fine, although it is a detectable repair if you have extensive knowledge of 57 Fords.

I like your idea better, but not going to change it at this stage.  Not wanting to make "perfect" the enemy of "good enough".... Time is running out before annual trip to Florida and I need to keep moving and get all the newly bare metal underneath the car covered again before we leave.

[hiball3985]

THANK GOODNESS YOU CAUGHT THIS!

It seems CASCO is using partial FORD PN's to ID their wares. I a$$-u-me(ed) the 57 Bird would take the same drum as the SW-RHT as both use the same axle tube sizing and bearing. I was wrong. The 57/58 BIRD drum is unique.

I apologize profusely. I will remove the above post.

The CASCO ILL shows the rear drum (1126) at the top of the ILL and the front drum and hub at the bottom.

Not your fault. They list things incorrectly. That why I'm hesitant to buy from some people.

[mustang6984]

Glad I could sorta help. Understand the need to get to the finish line with the project too.

I didn't see the thread when you first posted it. Maybe someone else will be able to use the idea down the road. 

[brushwolf]

Yes, I gathered that you have been relocating and also got Covid on top of it. Possibly in Missouri... I am going through MO next week to 10 days on the way to the Redneck Riviera (Florida Gulf Coast). 

Am thinking I may take my box of latex gloves with and toss them after each gas fill. Another guy in Michigan who contracted it says he cannot think how he could have contracted it, except for pumping gas. Cuz he had avoided everyone and touched nothing except pay at the pump CC use..

I am fond of Missouri and had planned to spend an overnight there, but now if I do I will possibly be worried again thinking that you contracted it there. I suspect I would survive it anyway,  but find I wish less to tempt fate than in my younger days and wish to spend the time in Florida productively and not on the couch or in bed. 

Minnesota gets more difficult all the time.  Maybe I need to build a pole building down there too, in case it gets worse here. But, I have too many family members in MN AND too many toys to drag them all down there.

Or perhaps I just need to drink more than every year or so, and worry less...But I am concerned my children  grandcbildrena and great-granchilden are going to have a lot tougher row to hoe than I have.

[mustang6984]

Well...good news...according to the doc...one of the myths is oh so not true...you CANNOT get it from a gas pump. I told her I had heard that and had a hard time believing it and she said I was correct.
As for getting it in Missouri...I have been in over 10 states, and she said that with my recent travel record there was no way to know where I got it. She told me that many people are exposed...and never ever get sick, and may well carry the stupid thing around with them for a time. Also told me that the time between being exposed and actually getting sick can be up to 7 days. So who knows where I contracted it from. My wife got it too...and her version? The "I have a bad cold" version. She is fine now, went to the doc yesterday and he said she is done. So...makes no sense.

As for coming through Missouri...I am leaving WA on Wednesday. But need to come back one more time to get my boat. After that ANY time you come through...let me know, and if time permits...would love for you to stop by and we can throw a steak on the BBQ...crack open a brewski and talk '57's...or what ever else comes to mind!
(that goes for any and all here...just let me know you're in route...so I can grab those steaks and brews!)   

[KULTULZ]

Not your fault. They list things incorrectly. That why I'm hesitant to buy from some people.

Thanks for the kind words but that one was entirely on me. The FORD PN is B7A 1126-B and I searched and came up with the CASCO site (THUNDERBIRD dedicated) that used a partial FORD PN 1126B which I immediately thought was the same or close. It is not. Their 1126A is for 55/56 and 1126B for 1957.

Regardless, CASCO is a class act. It was my oversight that tripped me.

These vendors will use partial FORD PN's leading you to believe that are GENUINE when they are not. If they use a true FORD PN they have to pay a royalty.

[SkylinerRon]

A lot of these vendors are not that sharp on the Ford numbers. The 57 battery tray they all sell carries the number B7A-10732-B when it should be -A.

It has been on the market for over a decade.

Ron.