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Interior sound deadener

Started by 59meteor, 2021-04-21 11:38

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59meteor

I recently had my original seats reupholstered, door panels and headliner hopefully be done soon, carpet set (ACC) on order. Just wondering if any of you guys have any experiences with aftermarket sound deadeners. Like Dynamat, Hushmat,. etc. My 59 is not a luxo barge, with the 428 and DynaMax Turbo mufflers, it`s fairly loud, and with the mufflers located under the rear seat, it doesn`t have the typical heat coming up thru the front floorboards. That said, I am considering some type of sound deadening material, at least under the carpet. The ACC carpet I ordered has the extra cost Mass backing and insulation, that may be good enough, but I don`t want to install the carpet, and find out that I needed some more noise reduction. I think Dynamat is out, mainly due to coast, but even the Hushmat ain`t cheap. Has anybody got anything thing good (or bad) to say about the Hushmat, or possibly some cheaper building material that works. And what areas covered do you think provided the best "bang for the buck". I don`t plan on covering every square inch of floorpan, but wonder if some specific areas help more than others. (transmission tunnel, under the seats, over the rear axle, inside trunk, the doors, and inner roof, before the headliner goes in). I don`t expect my 60+ year old 2 door sedan to be as quiet as a new Lincoln, nor do I really want that, but a bit less "tinny" sounding that it was with bare steel floorpans. Or is the stuff a waste of $$$. Last thing I want, is for the car to be so quite that all I heard is wind leaks from the doors and windows! And the car has no radio, so no worries about wanting to sound like I am in Carnagie Hall.
1959 Meteor 2 door sedan , 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed. Been drag racing Fords (mostly FEs) 47 years and counting.
Previous 50s Fords include 57 Custom 4 door, 2 57 Ford Sedan Deliveries, 59  Country Sedan, and as a 9 year old, fell in love with the family 58 2 door Ranch Wagon.

1930artdeco

In the Model A world some guys use stuff they get at HD and Loews, sorry I do t know the name but they say it is cheaper and works well.

Mike
1930 Model A Townsedan
1957 Country Sedan

gasman826

Lizard Skin...not the cheapest but the easiest and lightest.  Knock off products are out there and likely much cheaper.

thomasso

I use the Eastwood product, like Dynamat but cheaper.
57 E Code Black 76B   55 Willys Aero   63 Rivera   99 Lightning  1- XK8 Convs.   05 Vanden Plas  etc.

terry_208

Choices...choices, too many choices.  What are the properties and application process of the lizard skin?  Where can it be purchased?
Terry

40coupefan

I used Kilmat on my 57. Was 57 dollars from Amazon free shipping.

Ford Blue blood

You can make your own "Lizard Skin".  Go to a hobby shop that caters to remote control airplanes.  They use a product to make intricate shapes for their air planes.  It is the same little ceramic beads used in Lizard Skin.  You purchase it in bags and mix it with latex paint then use an undercoating gun to spray it on.

Second choice is an acoustic mat from an industrial supplier.  It is used as sound deaden er, is self stick and molds very well with a heat gun and wall paper roller. McMaster Carr supplier has a good "mastic" that is supper sticky.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

KYBlueOval

If you want a Lizard Skin type product............Look for a roof coating used on chicken coops to lower the temperature. I have it in two of my cars and it works. I'm not at home , so I can't look up the product name. The product is as Ford Blue Blood described.....has a ceramic element that reflects the heat.
John

RICH MUISE

#8
You're at the stage where a little pre-planning is needed.....
WHAT I DID.........after my floor was repaired and por-15'd, then painted, I used a "snow and ice" rolled product from Lowe's. It looks like all the rubber products with the aluminum facing, and cheap enough to do the entire floor for less than 100. if I recall. I ran the stuff starting right under the cowl. Before I laid the carpet down, I ran all my electrical to the back, and then I laid down (glued) a 3/8 jute carpet underlayment leaving a "channel" for the wiring. This underlayment also had the aluminum facing. I found if using this underlayment, it's sooo much easier to install by separating the jute from the aluminum, glue that down, then reglue the aluminum. If you don't separate the two, it's extremely difficult to get it to conform to the shapes of the floorplan. Also from Lowe's, I used the bubble wrap type insulation with the foil for the roof. You want the lightest insulation available for the roof or it will fall/seperate from the roof the first time the roof gets hot. My carpet was also a glue-down, which is why it was so important for me to do a lot of pre-planning on the wiring because it ain't coming up easily.

WHAT I WISHED I HAD DONE: My 4.6 dohc engine runs cool all the time internally but throws a lot of heat externally. I discovered my cowl was building up heat eventually from the engine and causing a "heatwave from under the dash on warm days. I realize most are not going to know what kind of heat buildup our engines are going to develop until we get to drive them, so in light of that, I wish I had spent more attention to insulating the cowl itself from generating that heat. pretty hard to do once the dash / defrost and heat plenum is installed. This is probably another area where Lizard skin would be easiest/best??
I'm basically pretty happy with the sound and heat other than the cowl issue. As far as sound.....my car is loud (exhaust system) with the windows down, but the noisiest thing with windows up is still the air leaks from around the doors, which I was able to substantially quiet down finally this year.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

81TTA

I went the cheaper route similar to what Rich describes.  This was in a 70's vehicle with T-tops.  So, I was worried about both sound deadening and sealing the floor against moisture coming from above. 

After the floor was sealed and painted, I applied self-adhesive strips of a roof repair "tape" from HD/Lowes.  I think they came in six or nine inch wide strips.  Pain to cut multiple pieces and butt them together.  But, for any curved areas, it did make application a bit easier.  If I had it to do again now, I'd go with a larger product like the snow and ice stuff.  Sounds like it would do the same thing the repair tape is doing.  There's no way any moisture is going to make it to the floorboard from above.

Next, I used a roll of insulation that looks like aluminum foil faced bubble wrap to go on top of the roof material.  This was just for sound deadening.  I went with this since it wasn't too thick and could easily be compressed for anything bolted to the floor.

RICH MUISE

The stuff I used was 24 or 36"...don't remember, but a heat gun helps a lot to make it conform and also makes the adhesive more aggressive.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

SkylinerRon

It's called WeatherWatch at Home Depot ect.  Comes in a roll 3 foot wide and 33 foot long.

Peel and stick on one side. Used to prevent damage to shingle roofs from ice and snow backup from gutters.

I used it as an underlayment to cover my whole roof.

Ron.

abe_lugo

Has anyone used any spray in sound deadener?
Abe      Los Angeles, CA  IN Los Angeles proper. 90008

gasman826

Lizard Skin

RICH MUISE

I used a paintable latex rubberized spray coating over the por-15 on the underside/outside of my entire car.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe