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Cavalier style R&P increased turning radius issue

Started by gasman826, 2022-06-30 16:02

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gasman826

The common issue or complaint with Cavalier style or Mustang II style rack and pinion steering swaps is the increased turning radius.  I was so pleased with the improved drivability with the upgrade that I over looked the radius issue.  I also have fenderwell headers and the reduced steering kept the tires/header contact to a minimum.  Since I have about 12K miles on the upgrade, I disassembled for inspection.
Anyway, I found there are stops inside the boot! There is a loose spacer between the rack and the tie rod adapter (inside the bellows).  With the tie rod adapter bolts removed, my steering wheel rotated 3-1/2+ turns stop to stop.  With the bolts in, my wheel would only rotate 2-3/8 turns stop to stop.  The spacer also acts as a stop.  I pulled the spacer and cut just the plastic stops.  I now have 2-3/4 turns stop to stop.  Since I still have the fenderwell headers, 2-3/4 turns in enough.  The steel spacers have a shoulder that could be ground off for more adjustment.  The shoulder on the spacer is only on one side.  For maximum steering wheel rotations, the spacer could be rotated 180 degrees and reassembled. 
I found this also true on Mustang II racks.  Remove the bellows clamp and pull the bellows back to expose a 'U' shaped piece of plastic that works as a stop.  Just pull the stop out on both sides and turn a tighter circle.
I think both R&P were used in several models and different tires sizes.  Many of the old double wishbone suspensions and solid axles had adjustable stops to limit turning radius to help with tire/frame contact.  Big trucks still have these adjustments. 

RICH MUISE

Somewhere, this was brought up a few years back about another unrelated rack, and the discussion ran to our racks, and if this was possible. I think the condenses at the time was, it would not work on our racks.........SO.........this is obviously great news! Did you take any pics by chance? If I had a lift, I'd look into altering my rack.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

PICs

RICH MUISE

The pics clarrify what you've done. Thanks for posting them. Keep us informed after you've driven for a while if there are any issues.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

KYBlueOval

Quote from: gasman826 on 2022-07-02 07:49PICs
Gary, could you please explain the three photos. What do I need to know regarding each photo,so I can do this "adjustment" to my rack?
Thanks
John

RICH MUISE

John, took me a while to notice the difference between pics 2 and 3. Let's see if I'm understanding him correctly............Pic #1, I believe he is just showing the location of the "item" being reworked. I believe pic #2 is just as it was when removed from rack, and in the 3rd pic, the lower right end of that piece has been ground off (at the end).
I'm curious about the boot damage shown in the first pic.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

Quote from: KYBlueOval on 2022-07-02 09:19please explain the three photos

PIC 1: the bottom side of my Cavalier style rack with the tie rod adapter removed.  Reach into one of the bellows holes and pull the spacer out.  The bellows is quite forgiving and stretchy.

PIC 2: just the plastic is removed from the spacer holder...removing just the plastic added about 3/8 more to the steering wheel turns.

PIC 3: I ground about half the steel nub off the spacer which gave me 3 full steering wheel turns which is as sharp as I want to turn with the fender well headers.  If I didn't have header clearance issues, I would have turned the space 180 degrees or ground all of the nub off.  I did not grind the nub all the way to the bottom so the plastic would keep the spacer aligned.  Only the top half of the nub contacts rack housing (stop).

gasman826

I made my R&P 'kit'.  One of the early versions on the tie rod adapter pinched and damaged the bellows/boot.  I modified the adapter for more clearance but the damage was already done.  That was over 10K miles ago and is part of the reason for regular inspections.  Inside the bellows is very clean...so far.

KYBlueOval

Thanks Gary..........At the risk of showing my gross ignorance, do I assume this "Trimming" is done to both ends of the spacer?

gasman826

There are two spacers.  One at each end of a plastic holder.  The steel spacers pop right out of the black plastic holder.

KYBlueOval

OK.........I think I got it. Remove both spacers from the plastic holder and trim both spacers as per photo number three.

OR,for more turning radius, turn each spacer, 180* ,OR grind all of the nub off, but leave the lower portion of the nub, per photo #3, so as to keep the spacer aligned.
Gary,did I get it right?
Thanks
John

gasman826


gasman826

I've driven a few miles since the rack modifications.  A very noticeable improvement.  I can drive right into a parking space and even parallel park without see-sawing back and forth.