Five Years (+10) and counting

[lalessi1]

When I saw your Malwood Underdash clutch master cylinder I had to have one. That allowed me to put in a hydro-boost unit and I used a Wilwood compact dual master. My stuff is arranged almost like yours (although my car is a little rough and yours is perfect!!!). I haven't posted on this stuff yet, I am almost done and I wanted to be finished when I finally did. Got the new brake lines run today finally and now I can finish the hydraulics routing.

Yours looks great!

[gasman826]

Just comparing Malwood installations...everything installed as expected.  Upon completion and bleeding, I have a little more upper end free play than I prefer.  Is yours that way or am I just the lucky one.  I have a full two inches of travel from the upper bumper to feeling pressure but have complete clutch release at the bottom of the pedal movement.  The actuation rod has no adjustment.  OH...one other question, did you install a pedal stop to avoid bottoming out the MC?

[gasman826]

More upgrades.  The second, improved 460 dyno'd just over 500HP.  I had a steel driveshaft made with OEM cast ends, 1350 u-joints, an aftermarket cast 1350 pinion yoke, and an OEM, cast, 1350 transmission yoke.  While doing the nut-n-bolt checks, I found lateral movement in the rear u-joint.  With no signs of wear, I suspected the pinion yoke had spread.  So, I just finished installing a forged pinion yoke and a new aluminum, 1000HP rated, drive shaft with forged ends and forged transmission yoke.  A little carb tweaking and a test drive after the rain stops.

[gasman826]

more PICs

[Fairlane62]

I have always used Driveshaft Specialist in San Antonio but it looks like Action Machine also makes a good quality shaft.

Interesting that a 1350 yoke would spread from street driving.  Are you running slicks?

PS, it amazes me how clean your components always look.

[gasman826]

I hope Action Machine driveshafts are good.  I have three of them!

No slicks.  I cheaped out when I bought the pinion yoke, but it was tight when new.

As far as the underside appearance, the colors are bright.  The finishes are gloss...no flat or satin.  The entire bottom sheet metal is coated with tintable bed liner.  I also wipe it down every time it is on the hoist.

[rmk57]

    My driveshaft is from a 2000's P-71 cop car. Comes with 1350 u-joints although I did have to get it shortened and balanced. 3 1/2" Alcoa aluminum. Even had "police" stenciled in yellow on it. It's held up fine with 275 MT drag radials on a pretty sticky track.

[lalessi1]

Just comparing Malwood installations...everything installed as expected.  Upon completion and bleeding, I have a little more upper end free play than I prefer.  Is yours that way or am I just the lucky one.  I have a full two inches of travel from the upper bumper to feeling pressure but have complete clutch release at the bottom of the pedal movement.  The actuation rod has no adjustment.  OH...one other question, did you install a pedal stop to avoid bottoming out the MC?

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Travel vs engagement is about what it was but it seems smoother. I was a little concerned about the lack of adjustment as well at first but overall the clutch is better. I spoke to the guy that designed the system and he said no travel stop was required. I have their throw out bearing but I have not installed it. I never indexed the bellhousing and He thought that was probably the source of my issues. That is on my list of things to do. I have been happy overall with the set up. I would call Malwood The guy was great to work with, he is a Mechanical Engineer with circle track experience.

[gasman826]

I've talked with the Malwood guy before.  Great support!  Indexing the bellhousing is pretty much mandatory with the Tremec.

On the Raunch Wagon 351/408 AOD conversion, an aluminum Crown Vic PI driveshaft (yellow stripe) fit with no mods.

[gasman826]

'57 Fords International travels.

[lalessi1]

Way cool! gotta love it....