If finally started today! Yahoo!

[texasmark1]

First off, let me say a big THANK YOU to all who have added their suggestions that have led to a sucessful first start up after an overhaul years ago on my 272-equipped 57 F.lane 500 (64B)!!

I ended the "it shoulda' started today" thread with a request for interested parties to check this one out...

Appears that when I installed the Petronix pick up and coil, that I should have also hooked the firewall-mounted resistor back up as well, but the source I got the Petronix from told me I would not need the resistor... but without it, I did not have a complete circuit, so the engine would act like it started with the key in the "start" position, but when I released the key to the "run" position, I had an incomplete circuit, so it would not stay on...

So, after reinstalling the resistor, hitting the gas enough times to get fuel into the carb, she finally started up!

I then ran it up to approx 2000 RPM for the break-in period, but after about 5-7 minutes, it was beginning to be obvious that the engine was getting too hot.  I had a aux-temp gauge ready to hook up, but decided to try relying on the temp guage in the dashboard... probably a mistake, as it never moved off of "C"...

Also I apparently have a water leak at the dr.side-head-to-block mating below the #6 spark plug. And a small leak off the front of the carb.

Additionally, the middle runners on the intake manifold started to "darken" as well after running a few minutes.  The engine had this characteristic before I had it overhauled; also, I have seem numerous pics of y-block engines with the same dark area on the middle runners.  Any ideas what causes this?? Do I have a leak there that causes these runners to run hot and thus discolor?

So, the plan now is:

fix the carb leak,
check the torque on the head bolts in hopes that it fixes the water leak,
hook up a real temp guage before the next start up...
attempt another start and longer "break in" run at 2000 rpm...

any more ideas/suggestions/comments...??

again, thanks so much for your assistance!

Mark

[shopratwoody]

If you don't need a resister just wire around it to complete the circuit and give it the full 12 volts.
I haven,t had a y block for years but the center runner is heat I think. That's why it changes
color. Put the real heat guage in and do the break in. Valves at .019 etc...hope the head seals up,
I could never be that lucky!

[Hoosier Hurricane]

Mark:

Did you check the timing with a light after you got it running?  At 2000 rpm it should have near 30 degrees.  Not enough timing will make it run hot.

John

[texasmark1]

thanks...

two great suggestions to implement!

hope to get to them later this week... turned cold here in Houston today (50 degrees outside)!

will update asap...

thanks,Mark

[wv 57s forever]

50 would be heat wave here

[57 Ford Kustom]

   25 or 30 degrees would be nice up here. Don't even want to go out to measure how much white stuff we got yesterday and today and it ain't stopped yet.


TOM

[texasmark1]

YAHOO... today was real progress!
got the timing set, adjusted valves, pretty much completed the initial run in at approx 2000 rpm...
still getting hot, though; hits 200 degrees after about 10-12 minutes...
believe I may have a problem thermostat..., hopefully not a problem with full water circulation;
also have a small water leak still, but NO oil leaks! with good oil pressure!
plan to drain all the water out and refill in hopes that the water leak will correct (got this suggestion from Y Blocks forever site)
drain and replace the oil and filter now that the initial run in is done...
had my muffler shop install the exhaust system with the pipes running parallel to the trans./drive shaft tunnel; man, it sures gets hot along the hump!
shot some tape of the above but I have a not-digital camera so no U Tube vid for me!

thanks again to all who have offered suggestions/advice for this start up!
Mark