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Front brake drum hub into new front drum

Started by JUSTIN CARDON, 2019-09-10 19:21

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JUSTIN CARDON

My 57 skyliner front drums are shot, they are the original ones probably from factory with 4-22-57 cast on them so I presume they have been on the car for life. I had some new drums sent to me, correct size, with cast number BD2612 on them. I have used s swedge tool to remove original hubs from old drums. Testing my old hub in the new drum I see the hub is not a tight fit in the center hole in the new drum and has a small gap all around. This should be tight fit correct? because it is important have it exactly centered?
Has anyone put their old brake hub into a new drum? have they had a successful result, if so i would appreciate some direction on this. 

flatbedfred

I know this is an old post but I would be interested to know how you solved this problem. I bought new front drums for my 57 Skyliner this year and the stud holes were larger than the studs. However the drums are hub centric and the fit is very snug.

KULTULZ

Quote from: JUSTIN CARDON on 2019-09-10 19:21I had some new drums sent to me, correct size, with cast number BD2612 on them. I have used s swedge tool to remove original hubs from old drums. Testing my old hub in the new drum I see the hub is not a tight fit in the center hole in the new drum and has a small gap all around. This should be tight fit correct? because it is important have it exactly centered?

The drum opening (hub-centric) should fit tightly against the hub. The lug nuts by themselves will not keep the drum centered on the hub. If the lug nuts are not torqued correctly, if the drum moves it may eat the lug bolt openings.

Finding correct replacement drums is a problem.
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

KULTULZ

#3
Quote from: flatbedfred on 2023-12-27 19:50I know this is an old post but I would be interested to know how you solved this problem. I bought new front drums for my 57 Skyliner this year and the stud holes were larger than the studs. However the drums are hub centric and the fit is very snug.

The drum is held to the hub by the swages on the lug bolt. If the drum lug bolt holes are too large that drum will most likely slide on brake application (even with wheel torqued properly). It may also cut into the lug bolt threads weakening them.
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

KULTULZ

This Is From Another Forum -

QuoteI pulled off the front drums from my 54 Monterey. One a lathe, the LF drum is badly warped-about 1/4" moving in and outward. The hub runs smooth on the lathe, which makes me think the drum was pulled off and damaged in its life, or just bad.

Does the drum come off by removing the studs, then swedging new studs onto a new drum?

Anyone know where I can get a new drum for 54??

Reply ...  :003:

QuoteWell, this is the thing. On most FORD of the period, while the hub and drum were separate pieces, they were sold as an assembly (pressed together). The drum is pressed onto the hub and the lug bolt swages holds them together. Today, they are sold separate as they will fit more applications in this way.

Now the correct way to replace a drum on a hub (or more that one lug if damaged/loose) is to press the drum onto the hub. If any of the lug bolt swages are loose (in the hub), consider replacing all of them. They (lug bolts) are also available OS if the swages have eaten out the hub holes.

What you have most likely is a case of a previous owner/mechanic using a BFH.
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

flatbedfred

The newly made replacement drums that I purchased for my Skyliner are not of composite construction but are a one piece casting. That means the the web or disc portion od the drum is about 1/4" thick, a lot thicker than the original steel discs. So even the new stud's shoulder will not protrude enough to be swaged. I have seen this with new Chevy drums too. Apparently no one has invested in the equipment to make the drums the old way but use a one piece casting.

KULTULZ

If I had an application I was restoring or wanting to keep as built -

https://www.jgrelining.com/
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

RICH MUISE

I haven't had drums on my '57 for years, but I thought I remembered the drums being lug-centric, not hub-centric. I was told the way you could tell for sure was if your lug nuts/lug holes on the wheels were conical. If this is not correct, I'll delete.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

KULTULZ

#8
Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2024-01-01 09:35I haven't had drums on my '57 for years, but I thought I remembered the drums being lug-centric, not hub-centric. I was told the way you could tell for sure was if your lug nuts/lug holes on the wheels were conical. If this is not correct, I'll delete.

Nah, please don't delete as it is important information for others.

It has to be tight against the hub (opening) as if the drum holes are not drilled correctly (O/S and not captured by the swage(?)/shoulder of the lug bolt) (off-shore crap) and the drum is not held tightly, the drum can move, either becoming non-eccentric (which can/will result in vibration) or the drum turning slightly on application, causing a noise and possible damage running against the lug bolts continuously.

Now this is open to debate because in the olden days, CHEV front drums were not pressed onto the hub. You could pull the drum for a brake inspection without taking the outer wheel bearing off. That was years ago and I paid no attention or wondered why.

Quote... your lug nuts/lug holes on the wheels were conical ...

That would make the wheel itself lug-centric. Wheel torque will not hold the drum steady if the drum is not secured to the hub. Same of rear brakes without a hub. It needs to fit tightly against the axle flange to keep from dancing.

Same thing as a wheel not fitting over the hub snout correctly. While the wheel itself is lug-centric, if they (lug nuts) are not torqued properly or work them selves loose, you will have a problem.

All comments welcome ...

CORRECTION -

It is a wheel stud being discussed, not a lug bolt. That is entirely different.
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

RICH MUISE

Lug bolt???? not sure I've ever seen one, or knew anyone used them, so not 100% on what that could be other than what I can imagine it to be.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

thomasso

Mopar and some other mfgs used bolts instead of studs and nuts.  LH thread for right side of car.  Can't remember what years.
57 E Code Black 76B   55 Willys Aero   63 Rivera   99 Lightning  1- XK8 Convs.   05 Vanden Plas  etc.

KULTULZ

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2024-01-01 21:11Lug bolt???? not sure I've ever seen one, or knew anyone used them, so not 100% on what that could be other than what I can imagine it to be.

See Below -

WHEEL - LUG BOLT.jpg
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

59meteor

For whatever reason, most German cars use lug bolts instead of studs and lug nuts. As a mechanic, I always hated those lug bolts, trying to thread a bolt thru the wheel, into the brake rotor, while the wheel is moving around since there are no studs to hold the wheel in place. I had a 66 VW Beetle in high school, which had the really wide 5 hole bolt pattern  wheels, with a huge center opening, even though the skinny wheel and tire were not very heavy, it was still pretty ackward trying to get the first to bolts threaded in. Must be a joy on some of the large heavy wheels, like a Mercedes sedan or Sprinter van.
1959 Meteor 2 door sedan , 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed. Been drag racing Fords (mostly FEs) 47 years and counting.
Previous 50s Fords include 57 Custom 4 door, 2 57 Ford Sedan Deliveries, 59  Country Sedan, and as a 9 year old, fell in love with the family 58 2 door Ranch Wagon.

flatbedfred

I had a travel trailer with lug bolts. I always thought that if a thread gets messed up, there goes the hub.