what do I need

[RICH MUISE]

I had just asked Bill a question in  a pm that I second thought might make a good informative post here.
I am getting to order my ("EXPRESS") wiring harness from Ron Francis, and I was asking Bill if there was any thing else I should be ordering that would make for a better or easier installation. What I was thinking about were things  along the lines of a central grounding terminal block and the like. Im not refering to user specific items like electric fan relays, engine management harnesses, ect....but items more like the generic,everybody-could-use-this things, if that makes sense. I didn't want to rely soley on the salesman's advise of what I need.
Rich

[tarheel57]

Rich the ground strip is a good buy,I always order one with each kit. It will hold all of your grounds easy.I always mount it under the dash in the dry and run all of the grounds to it,you dont have to worry about a ground getting wet or dirty or looseing a ground.Another item I order with each kit is their Kill (disconnect) switch,great safety item.I like to mount it up under the front edge of the drivers seat,hidden but in easy reach of the driver.If something goes wrong a flip of the switch disconnects the battery.This could also help in case of a theft.If you are not using stock switches (lights,wipers,ign/key,etc.)the ones Ron sells are very nice and can be bought as cheap as new stock ones.Good choice in going with Ron Francis,in the past we tryed a couple of the other(cheaper) ones and the $100.00 we saved when buying it was spent 2 or 3 times in trying to figure them out. Good choice.  Tarheel57

[Ford Blue blood]

Rich I'll try to answer the PM and give some general thoughts on ordering.  Steel cars do not need a central grounding terminal if they are wired properly.  It is very important that the engine and starter are direcly wired up to the battery.  That is to say the ground terminal on the battery goes directly to the engine block.  The positive terminal is directly to the starter solinoid and the alternator output terminal through a fuse link.  I always run a ground cable from the engine block to the chassis and use a woven ground strap from the engine to the body.  If you are going to use hi intensity bulbs in your tail lamps it is good to wire the brake signal through a relay.  The halogen bulbs will eat up the standard in line switches 57s used in a hurry.  If you run LEDs no issues as they draw very little current.  Head lamps that are halogen (not the sealed beam standard replacement type) both the hi and low beam should be through a relay as well.  Head light switches will not carry the current they draw.  Most outfits sell the relay kits for both the brakes and head lamp circuits.  Check to see if the panel you are ordering will handle (have a seperate circuit for) A/C, power windows, power seats and for the audio guys power audio amps.

Generally speaking when you place an order for a system like Ron Francis sells you should have a well thought out list (written) of all you are going to be running in the car.  Every switch and control connector should be on that list as well.  Where the fuse panel and wire runs should be thought out as well.  Most suppliers will add extra (at an additional cost) wire for remot panel locations or unusual accessories.  I know there are probably more things but the high end kits come pretty complete and the instructions are beginner level.

Shoot me a PM if you have specific questions or think of other stuff that should be here to help others.

Bill

[RICH MUISE]

Bill, Tarheel...thanks for the input. I'll start that list of what I'm gonna be running and that alone will probably bring up questions I'm not thinking of right now. I misplaced my Ron Francis catalog...I know they had some guides and suggestions in it as well..guess I'll hunt some more for it today or order a new one.
Thanks again
Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Looking at the Ron Francis website I noticed they have a new bracket available for the express series that allows the main block to be wired in it's final position, but then temporarily dropped down for easier access...which would give it one of the features I liked about their 24-7 setup. I'm wondering how "easy" the pulling down for easier access in reality would be with all those wires running to it.
Any opinions?
Rich

[graybandit]

I find mounting 3 #8 6 position terminal block somewhere under the dash makes life a lot easier.  Each block should have all of the terminals tied together with either jumpers or shorting links then one should be connected to ground one to un-switched 12V and the last one connected to switched 12V.  This makes it easier when looking for a good ground or you need an additional power connections.  These part are available at most hardware stores or some place like Fry's.

[Roger]

To give you an idea on what I done with my wiring.Anywhere I needed a crimp type terminal I cut the plastic insulator off the terminal,slid a piece of Heatshrink on the wire and soldered the wire to the terminal.Takes a little longer that way but wont ever have a loose connection.You might already have planned on that but thought i'd tell it just in case.

[RICH MUISE]

Sounds like a dumb question, but all I've ever wired was a few houses....do you crimp and solder, or just solder? and...I know there is a wrong type of solder to use..what do you recommend for solder, and soldering equiptment.

[Ford Blue blood]

Go to an electronics store and get a good crimper.  The cheap ones that are on the .99 cent rack will do for emergencies only.  A good crimp will be as solid as solder.  Last as long too.  We use primarilly crimping in the military for the many connectors and plugs in all sorts of equipment.  If a crimp can stand the rigors of the sea and Naval gun fire it will handle the minor hickups the car will give it.

If you chose to solder get a resin core good quality solder.  60/40 lead/tin is good, provides good bonding, the resin is non corrosive and cleans up with alcohol easily.  A 25 watt iron will work well for everything to 14 ga., you'll want a larger iron or a gun for the 12 and larger.

I do not recomend soldering to the novice.  Too many issues with wicking and cold solder joints.  Both will give major head aches down the road.

[RICH MUISE]

Well, I finally got my wiring harness order placed with Ron Francis Wiring. 7-10 day delivery. $670. for what I could order without knowing for sure what my engine will be. I ordered the express kit which is recommended for the other than stock applications. They kinda left me out in the cold as far as my using the Mustang wiper control lever to actuate the matching wiper motor and control box. He told me if I could just tell them what I needed for a harness, they'd be glad to supply me the supplies to do it. If I could figure out what I needed for a harness at this point, I wouldn't be needing them to make it. What surprises me, is the wiper motor wires come in/out of the same connectors they are suppying for the turn signal, and dimmer switch??? I have a feeling they just don't want to get too far afield from their normal production stuff..and that's ok, I understand that. I also bought a good pair of crimping pliers today...the ratcheting kind..tried a test piece and it worked great.
P.S. I did order the drop down fuse panel arrangement for the express kit, so it'll function like that feature included in their 24/7 harness. Man I got alot of reading to do over the next few weeks.
Rich

[shopratwoody]

I probaably got $50.00 in my wireing, fusible links etc. One wire at a time works fine too.
Maybe a little more. I don't have 4 ways though

[Zapato]

I've rewired a couple cars didn't spend a lot of money. No where near that kit from Francis but I've not done an EFI mod motor. Biggest decision to make IMHO is where to mount the fuse panel. I'm thinking of hinging the dash speaker grille and mounting it right there. Simple arc hinge like those used in gloveboxes and a couple of magnetic door latches like those found in old stereo cabinets. The kind you tap and the glass door pops out a half inch or so out. Lot of better places to mount a speaker and who runs a single one anyway. Some speaker cloth or other material could be mounted behind the grille to disguise the set-up.

Wouldn't hesitate to use a kit from Rebel Wire, helped a friend do a 70 Bronco with one, great quality, price and well thought out.

Zap-