Bare metal protection?

[johns2000]

What do you guy's suggest for bare metal protection while working on your cars? Due to the weather here I'll have some bare metal exposed up to maybe 3 mo before the weather breaks and I can do the epoxy primer. Just use a cheap sandable primer and take it back off before using the epoxy? The car is inside at all times.

Thanks

[Ford Blue blood]

Nope...do the self etching epoxy primer.  You need to seal that sheet metal up.  When you're ready to do the work, scuff it, put on a coat of eurethane primer and go for it.

[johns2000]

most of the car is already in epoxy except the doors why do the self etch in one and go to the eurethane ?

[RICH MUISE]

Alot depends on the part of the country you're in. Here in Texas, on parts stored inside,  I can get away with  only treating with Zinc phosphate....months will pass with no sign of surface rust. It's hard to answer your question without knowing what stage the metal is in (other than bare).Is it still needing metal work...are they ready for paint?..etc.

[Ford Blue blood]

Didn't know you had the car already primed except the doors, just do them in the same epoxy as the rest of the car.  When you start sanding you'll understand the need to work with eurethane.  Eurethane will build better, finish better and polyester spot putty and bondo will stick to it better then they do to metal.  Most eurethane primers are mixed 4 - 2 - 1, mix 4 - 1 - 1 for high build and 4 - 3 - 1 for sealing.

[johns2000]

What has to be done with the zinc phosphate when you get ready to shoot the primer? I use the epoxy because it seals so well, I know it sucks to sand unless it's fully cured butd har to beat for keeping moisture at bay.

[RICH MUISE]

This is probably a little more info than you wanted, but here's how I did mine
I use por-15 Metal Ready, so the following info pertains to that product. I beleive they have changed the name on it though. Probably other products would have to be approached in the same way.
If you have also cleaned out the inside of your doors (highly recommended), do the inside of your door first, letting the metal ready get into all areas by turning the door on each of it's sides. Spray bottle is best way to get it in there. follow instructions on product..keep it wet, normally takes 15 minutes or so depending on temp. the metal will turn gray. do the outside..I like to work the surface with a skotchbrite pad several times during that 15 minutes or so. The zinc phosphate leaves a coating(grayish) and a residue(yellowish).
Flush the door inside and out, using a skotchbrite pad on the insidelightly to remove most of the residue. The coating and even a little of the residue is a perfect base for por-15(not primer). use an air hose to blow out any residual water. let it dry for a day or so, and por-15 the inside of the door.
leave the coating and residue on the outside (to be primed) surfaces until you are ready for primer.

This is the direct answer to your question, and I can't emphasize enough how important this is (regardless of what por-15 says)....prior to priming, jitterbug all of the surfaces to bare shiney metal..get down into corners, etc. This will leave the zinc phosphate in the pores and seams, cracks, etc. The zinc phosphate will interfere with the chemical bonding of the primer to the metal if you don't da/jitterbug it before priming
If any surface rust starts before you get to the priming, just go over it again with the metal ready

[johns2000]

Thanks Rich

[RICH MUISE]

finally found a pic. this is after metal ready (zinc phosphate)treatment. I was going to prime imediatly, so I didn't leave much residue..just the gray coating is left in the pic. outside of door got jitterbugged as mentioned before prime...inside just got the por-15, then undercoating.

[johns2000]

Thats one clean looking door!!