Carburetor

whisper38 · 2013-08-13 11:17

1957 ranchero,2 barrel carb,autolite 2100 series,need new carburetor,what can I get to replace it,any brand,292 engine y-block.I chatted with them at summit,they were no help.

Tom S · 2013-08-15 04:46

I have seen a lot of the 2100s on eBay. They are very good carbs & very easy to work on. But hardly anything ever goes wrong with them so I can't understand why you say you need a new carb. They are quite simple & any bad small part is very easy & cheap to replace. I have several on stock 302s & used them for years.
You can get a rebuild kit for them at most any auto parts store as Ford used them for years.
I like the 4100 four barrel too. Many parts exchange between the 2100 & 4100

2100 service manual... Way more info than you really need to do a rebuild. I never had this & everything I saw in these carbs was obvious. But don't turn it over & loose the check ball under the squirters!
(Ignore the pic on the first page, wrong carb.)
http://www.classicinlines.com/2100B.asp
4100 service manual...
http://www.classicinlines.com/4100A.asp

whisper38 · 2013-08-16 16:56

My 2 barrel has already been rebuilt,and there not much hope left in it.But i went ahead and order another rebuild kit going to give it one more shot then, if that doesn't help,its the graveyard for it.wanted to order a four barrel intake but guy will not answer his emails.

Tom S · 2013-08-17 07:33

Quote from: whisper38 on 2013-08-16 16:56
My 2 barrel has already been rebuilt,and there not much hope left in it.

What is wrong with your carb?
I was about to tell you that the carb bodies would never wear out. Then I remembered that the butterfly shaft bushings can wear out, thereby allowing air leaks. If yours is an original '57 carb that is a good possibility & a good reason to replace the carb. The 2100s on my '70s era 302s seem to be fine & there are lots of them around for cheap.
Oh, yeah... I like to support my local businesses so I wouldn't order a kit, just hit any local auto parts store. They all have the kits & I don't pay shipping. Seems that anymore so many people buy off the net. I don't always understand why when you can buy local for the same or less & no waiting.

whisper38 · 2013-08-17 11:37

The motor was out of a 1958 ranchero,and its the orginal carburetor,it will sit there and idle fine,but when you give it gas it bogs down,.

BWhitmore · 2013-08-17 12:00

It sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump.

BWhitmore · 2013-08-17 12:02

P.S. with the engine not running, remove the air cleaner and look down into the carburetor. Work the throttle 3-4 times. There should be gas squirting into the carburetor. If not, the problem is the accelerator pump in the carburetor.

whisper38 · 2013-08-17 14:38

I'll do that tomorrow,just finished sanding the body,and getting ready to primer it,maybe tomorrow or as soon as i see its not going to rain.Thanks.

Tom S · 2013-08-17 14:50

Quote from: BWhitmore on 2013-08-17 12:02...There should be gas squirting into the carburetor. If not, the problem is the accelerator pump in the carburetor.

I may be back-asswards on this but might it also bog if it's getting too much gas?
Yeah, sometimes those accelerator pump diaphragms give up. Dry out, crack, leak, or just won't pump. I think you can buy a new accelerator pump diaphragm separately. Same one as on some Holly carbs.
Easy fix, don't even have to pull the carb. For that matter most service on this carb can be done with the carb still in place. Hell, the engine will still run with the top of the carb removed & you are lookin' down into a full float bowl. Done it. Just don't want gas to splash & catch fire.
You probably already know that you can adjust the amount of gas that the accelerator pump squirts by where the rod is attached in that lever shown at top left of this page.
http://www.classicinlines.com/2100J.asp
I think usually have it in hole #3.

whisper38 · 2013-08-17 15:19

went out to the carport check the acc. pump its shooting gas just fine.the reason its got me worry when I went and picked it up from getting a bedliner sprayed in it,I started up a hill it just barely made it , it was bogging down,It cut off with me.Ended up having to have it towed home.

Tom S · 2013-08-17 15:30

Quote from: whisper38 link=topic=4369.msg29476#msg29476date=1376770769It cut off with me.

Are you sure this is not an ignition problem?

whisper38 · 2013-08-17 16:15

cranks up fine,no points sticking,no back fire,maybe its flooding itself out,unsure right now.

Ford Blue blood · 2013-08-18 07:11

Check your points, coil and wires. Many times a week ignition will run just fine at idle and under no/light load. Put it under a load and it will buck, kick and fall flat. Had this very problem with a 292 in a Unibody I was getting ready to drive from CA to AL. First check found way too wide oint gap. Set them (after sacrificing one of my daughters nail boards) and the thing ran great the entire 2300 miles.

rmk57 · 2013-08-18 10:49

Fuel pump? Float set to low? Plugged main jets? Fuel line restriction?

I had the same problem with an old Edsel, turned out to be a very gummed up fuel line at the rear of the tank where it threads into the tank. Cleaned out the fitting and fuel line and never gave me anymore problems.

Randy.

whisper38 · 2013-08-18 19:42

Well the rebuild kit should be here next week,I'll first go through everything everybody mentioned,before diving into rebuilding the carb.Thanks.

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Carburetor