Chassis Coatings?....What is your opinions?

Jeff Norwell · 2013-09-26 16:33

I have spoken about this topic with Jay(E-Code) a few times...(Jay..I will holler at ya--Just coming off a crazy work week)
What is your choice and favourite...... and the reasons?
There is Rustoleum,KBS Coating,Eastwood,Tremclad,Por 15,etc,etc.......
I spoke with Rich about this as well.......
Which is the easiest to work with?
Which is the longest,toughest durability?
which one is cost effective..... I am talking home build type of stuff here..not any Pro shop.

Thoughts?

Let's hear them guys.

Limey57 · 2013-09-26 16:55

To be honest I don't think you can beat a well shot blasted frame, epoxy primer & four coats of 2K satin or gloss black. That's how mines done. I've used rustoleum (well, our equivalent) in the past and it started to chip & peel and a fried used POR15 which didn't stick well to the non-rusted areas.

gasman826 · 2013-09-26 19:03

best - media blast and powder coat
good - media blast epoxy prime and paint
lot of work for the results - wire brush and paint with everything with mediocre results

POR is a impressive product but one little crack in the finish and moisture gets in and starts to bubble. I built a car trailer out of new steel. Wire wheeled and washed before POR and top coat. Bubbles are forming after six years. Another vehicle, media blasted the frame and POR. Still looks good. If you don't media blast to clean and prep, POR is a lot of work and money. Without proper prep, everything is a waste of time. Might as well just rattle can it.

I've got a spare frame if you want to do the prep and switch your body on to it.

RICH MUISE · 2013-09-26 19:26

I agree with Gasman. Prep is critical with por-15 in that it needs a toothy surface for long time adhesion. Sandblasting with #6 sand is a perfect prep for it. The phosphate etch also helps with adhesion. It simply will not stick to a smooth surface....but then what will? Wish there were a simple solution for you, Jeff, it's the same old "if you want it right....". I realize your not wanting a long term restoration project though, so a thorough cleaning and whatever paint sure wouldn't hurt anything, except give an extra few layers to remove if you decide on a full resto down the road. Don't let the car get you into something you don't want....we're just in it for the fun part... right? The only difference is each person has got to decide for himself what that fun part is.

Frankenstein57 · 2013-09-26 20:33

I've had excellent results with KBS coatings, rust seal. They have real testimonials which are mostly positive. Again, blast the frame and use the prep products. Mark

Ford Blue blood · 2013-09-27 08:27

Jeff I would recommend powder coating. Outfit here in town quoated me $600 to blast and powder coat a clean (no grease and dirt build in corners) frame, add 200 for degreasing. The powder is duable, much more so then paint, prep is essentialy the same for any of the systems you asked about. As state above prep is the whole story.

IMHO powder is the way to go for long lasting looks and durability!

RICH MUISE · 2013-09-27 08:51

Jeff has had, and still has, the high$, long term builds going on, but that is what he doesn't want on this project. He has basically a "clean" undercariage, but very dirty, with most of the factory finish still on it. He is not wanting to do a body off restoration, at least at this point, but prep the coating that is still on it, and add a pretty-it-up-a-bit paint over it.

gasman826 · 2013-09-27 19:43

...like I said, rattle can it!

Jeff Norwell · 2013-09-28 07:03

Quote from: RICH MUISE on 2013-09-27 08:51
Jeff has had, and still has, the high$, long term builds going on, but that is what he doesn't want on this project. He has basically a "clean" undercariage, but very dirty, with most of the factory finish still on it. He is not wanting to do a body off restoration, at least at this point, but prep the coating that is still on it, and add a pretty-it-up-a-bit paint over it.

Rich is right.... I have been working on a 32 5 window for 9 years... it's nearly done......and i just can't do a frame off on the 57..... it's not a money thing(well....yes and no).. but a time thing.
I just can't get into a long term project... my heart is not into it.
Gary..... your right!
thanks EVERYONE for there input.
I start the new adventure next week.

Boss/Cyclone · 2013-09-28 18:34

I used Peganox on a project. Worked good and looked good. I sold the car, still see it once in a while and it seems to be holding up. A friend told me about it as he uses Noxyde at work on on bridges and industrial areas and peganox is a thinner version on Noxyde.

410ranchero · 2013-09-29 12:50

Just looked up those products. Those are pretty neat. Seems like a good floor pan paint as well.

The Peganox is a roller/brush vs. Noxyde which is recommended to be sprayed. Dry drop which would make clean up easy and a 10 year warranty.

Zapato · 2013-09-29 14:38

Wow! Peganox thins and cleans with water............

Zap-

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Chassis Coatings?....What is your opinions?