Tire/wheel lip clearance

[lowrider]

Picked up a set of mag wheels & tires for my Custom 300 & run into a problem with the tires too close to the wheel lip in the rear. Picture shows the right rear, the left rear is the same. It has only 1/8in. clearance between the tire & wheel opening lip about 1 1/2in. on both sides of the fender skirt locating hole. From there it opens up to a 1/2in. or more. Anyone know of a way to roll the lip over in that area? I really don't want to cut the lip opening. Any ideas?

[rmk57]

What size tires? What backspace on your rims?

[gasman826]

Ya...not enough room.  I can't tell about the paint but if its old original enamel, it will crack if you try to roll the lip.  Rolling or cutting have issues but in either case it won't be original so cut it, narrow the rear end, or buy new wheels.  I cut mine so far that I welded the edge back together.  I even trimmed some from the leading edge of the lip.

[57AGIN]

lowrider:

I got around my problem with rear tire clearance by doing what Gassman said.  Although I didn't have to re-weld the bead.  I have Cragar S/S rims with the maximum back space (about 4.5")  My drag radials are mounted on Weld Drag Star rims also with that back space and don't have clearance issues.  You can see where I cut the lip back and I bent it up a little (gently).

Bob
57 AGIN

[lowrider]

Thanks for the replies. Think I have it fixed. One side was closer than the other so I did a little surgery and centered the axle. The paint was "newer" so I was able to roll the lip over in the areas it was closest. Took it for a ride down my bumpy dirt road and everything seems fine. I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

[Frankenstein57]

Curious, how far off was the rear end, side to side? Mine is 3/8 different, thinking up options to correct it. My rear shackels are new , the front spring rubbers and bushings are old. Probably have to cut that front bolt to get them out. If that isn't the problem I might make a pad with an offset center bolt hole, or slot the present hole. I tried losening everything, shift the axle over and re- snugging it down, didn't help.  Mark

[Finally1]

I fought myself over this for a month and finally went and had a 8.8 narrowed 1.5 more than a stock 57 which is 57 1/4 and went to 54 1/4 total and had 9 inch ends put on ,new 31 spline axles and leaf spring perches . I used the factory backing plates drums and brakes . I did have to grind the corners of the lower u bolt bracket to clear the backing plate . I now have 15x8 with 4 inch back space running 255/60/15 tires for the rear .Wheels are in paint jail at the moment .  I went with the 8.8 as the parts are plenty cheap and they can handle the power level I plan to be at easily . Should have wheels back by end of the weekend and Ill get pics .

[gasman826]

The body/frame mounting can be off center.  There is potential for a lot of movement in the body mounts/cushions/insulators.  With old mounts, there would be a 'set' and changing the body/frame alignment by loosening the mounts, shifting the body, and tightening the mounts would have little or no effect.  I think it would require a new mount kit.  A 3/8" difference would only require 3/16" movement to balance the side difference.

[Frankenstein57]

I was checking off of the frame rails, and it was consistent with the wheel wells

[gasman826]

Since rear tire clearance is always an issue, I consider the body center line as half the distance between the wheel opening lips.  The only adjustment would be the body mounts.  The frames were jig welded with some accuracy.  The sheet metal could have been welded together with less accuracy.  The OEM suspension has little to no adjustment.  Loosening and re-tightening everything was about it if the frame is straight.  I took a '57 apart with nearly 1-1/2" front to rear miss alignment.  The frame was straight and the car appeared to not have several collision damage.  The core support frame slot had been notched!!  Tire clearance is also a premium due to the amount of laterial movement allowed by leaf springs.  After market suspensions allow adjustability and reduce laterial movement.  I can get away with as little as 3/16" tire clearance with a triangular 4-link.