basic electrical question

[RICH MUISE]

So it's needed....I'll finish it up. Thanks Gary.

[RICH MUISE]

Easy to do, anyway. I ended up with two (yes, two) installed brake switches. I had previously installed a GM type mechanical switch on the brake pedal. It is very difficult to adjust, and I am just about at the end of the adjustment to get the switch to open/close when the pedal is first depressed..I want the pedal to stop on the bumper, not the switch. Anyway, plastic switch, hard to get at for adjustment, but I got it working and wired it so I could run the wires back to the taillights. When I did my hydroboost last year, I ordered a Wilwood proportioning valve with a low pressure brake light switch.
I was asking a friend which of the two was more reliable so I could remove the other, and he suggested it would be easier down the road to hook up cruise control if I just left both on...so I did!
I'll leave the brake lights hooked up to the mechanical switch, and use the pressure switch to feed info to the engine harness/panel.

[RICH MUISE]

And I should have asked...what is "lock up torque converter control"? Sounds like engine braking??

[canadian_ranchero]

the torque converter has a clutch in it that comes on in 3rd and 4th gear[to help gas mileage].the computer need to know if the brakes are on to help decide when to apply or release the clutch   

[RICH MUISE]

Ah....Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

[RICH MUISE]

Pretty much finished up with 98% of the electrical. I got the wires tidy'd up under the dash..at least as far as I can go until I finish the cop conversion (it's that extra loop of wires above the Telorvek panel). I took care of some issues with the back lights...I now have tailights, hazards, brake and turn signals and back up lights. The 3rd brake light wiring (not installed yet) has power to it when the brakes are applied, so it's all good now. One issue I had was a bad connection in the trailer-hitch type connectors I used at the tailights. They were the type that force an unstripped wire down into a "V". They normally work fine, but not so well on the premium GXL and Sxl wires I did most of the car with. The double jacket on those are substantially tougher. I disassembled the connectors, stripped the wires and soldered the connections. That solved the contact problem I was having if the tailight wire was moved or jiggled. I also got another power distribution box mounted and wired in the trunk so I'll have a power source for my trunk light, trunk release and whatever else I may need.
Another issue I had to fix was I somehow got the two supply wires for the dual filament bulb reversed on the driver's side, resulting in the tailight being brighter than the brake light.
I decided to install the turn indicators in the dash panel rather than in the hood scoop, so I'm waiting for those to come in. That and installing some courtesy lights under the dash.

[Ford Blue blood]

Well done sir!

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks, Bill...your help was invaluable on this project. That, and picking the right wiring harness supplier made all the difference in the world. It's hard to believe the amount of knowledge that is gained by wiring your own car.....and I'm not talking about automotive electrical theory.