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Self adjusting rear drum brake

Started by ROKuberski, 2015-04-05 13:36

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ROKuberski

I've been looking for a kit to convert my manual adjusting stock rear brakes to be self adjusting.  I've found a kit for 1958 cars, but can't seem to find one for 1957.  Does anyone know if there was that much difference so that these will not work?

Thanks,

Rich

Ford Blue blood

58 Should bolt in as almost everything on a 58 is exactly the same as a 57..
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ROKuberski

#2
That's what I thought, but as you can see, they say from '58 forward.  However, after spending a little more time on their website, I finally noticed the green box on the right that says it fits all models.  At the top, you can see that I am logged in and have" my vehicle" set properly.  I guess I just have to pay more attention.

This should work.  I am ordering it this evening.

Rich

lalessi1

I tried to do a little research.... 1961 looks like the first year for self adjusting brakes for Ford. The kit looks like a repair kit and not a conversion kit to me. Curious about what you find out.
Lynn

ROKuberski

Lynn,

Yes, I did notice it says "repair kit", but I think all I need is the lever, cable and cable guide.  The existing star wheel should be just fine.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/drum-brake2.htm

Rich

hiball3985

Rich,
The star wheels are different on self adjusters, the have many more teeth. And I'm pretty sure the originals won't work. I've done a few cars in the past but converting from self adjusters to manual. The OEM hardware when they first started using self adjusters was junk and rusted away causing all kinds of problems  :005:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Ford Blue blood

Quote from: hiball3985 on 2015-04-06 08:27
Rich,
The star wheels are different on self adjusters, the have many more teeth. And I'm pretty sure the originals won't work. I've done a few cars in the past but converting from self adjusters to manual. The OEM hardware when they first started using self adjusters was junk and rusted away causing all kinds of problems  :005:

Yup, I use anti-sieze rather then grease.  It is stuff I "rescued" from the Navy out of a dumpster when the decommissioning process was going on with USS Wisconsin BB-64.  It was used on steam fittings and flange bolts and stays put forever!
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ROKuberski

I will install all the new stuff when it comes.  It should be here Thursday, but I won't have time to work on it until Friday.  It should be an easy thing to install.

My new front disk brakes are working great.  Also my new electronic ignition module.  I put about 120 miles on the car yesterday and have the impression that mileage has increased too.  I failed to note the odometer reading when I filled up  about a week ago.  On the 25th I will put about 150 miles on the car and that should be a good test of highway mileage.  Previously, I had some carb work done.  Prior to that, I was getting about 13 MPG, after carb work, it jumped to about 15 - 16 and if I could get another couple of miles per gallon out of it that would be great.

Rich

ROKuberski

Well, I got my parts yesterday and this afternoon I tried to install the kit.  Everything looked great - BUT -  it has a problem.

The thickness of the washer end of the cable is too thick to allow both brake return springs fit on the center stud.  I've either got to remove some of the steel on the shoulder of the stud to give about .030" more room, or perhaps use return springs that are a smaller diameter. 

That is the only problem, but it is enough of a problem to put a stop to this for a while.

Am I the only one that has this problem?   Has anyone else installed a self adjusting kit on one of these cars?

Rich



hiball3985

The cars that used self adjusters may use a different anchor pin or anchor plate. Possibly use a later anchor plate or surface grind the plate down .030 if the hole in the washer end is large enough to fit over the anchor pins large diameter?
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

ROKuberski

The hole in the cable end is large enough to go over the first shoulder on the pin.  It's all pressed together and welded, no way to remove the pin that I can see.  If I could, it would be a snap to chuck it up in my lathe and turn it down a little.

I've been trying to think of an easy way to remove a little metal without hacking things up.  Since it has to be done in place, my options are limited.  I am considering taking the bit out of a hole saw and using a hole saw to start the process then clean it up with a Dremel tool or die grinder. After all, all I need is the thickness of that washer.

Rich