Y block valve cover

[clusterbuster]

Since my new hydro-boost brake accumulator is so close to my Y block valve cover, I can see a problem removing it in case I need to do a rocker arm adjustment. Is anyone really familiar with the Y block heads as to whether the cover hold down studs are screwed into the heads or not. I know some of the fifties Chevies were pressed in. If they are screwed in, I could double nut and back them out,thus getting the valve cover off easy. Thanks in advance.

[djfordmanjack]

They are screwed in studs, but they also hold down the rocker shaft saddles and those are tightened down with a nut on the stud ( inside the valve cover).
your plan is not going to work unfortunately!

[clusterbuster]

Thanks for the input. Wouldn't backing the stud out also back the tightened nut loose that holds the rocker saddle?

[59meteor]

I think that you would either break off the stud, or at least damage the stud by trying to double nut the stud and remove it, while the nut holding the rocker stand is still torqued. Plus I don`t know if the stud above the valve cover is tall enough to double nut anyhow.

[clusterbuster]

Thanks again for your input. Probably will then have to loosen the hydro and try to get enough room. I believe there is enough room on the stud to double nut with the thinner type nut, but will scrap the idea.

[Hoosier Hurricane]

How about welding a nut to the head of a rocker hold down bolt, then tighten that bolt to hold the rocker stand down.  Then you can screw either a bolt or a stud into that nut.  Removing that bolt or stud will not effect the hold down bolt.

John

[JPotter57]

you can clock the hydrobost around to where it is out of the way.  Dad's 57 has a 4 cam 4.6, valve covers are almost a foot wide each, and the hydroboost clears it nicely.

[DanTudor57]

Getting ready to do the hydro boost here, had not considered that the the unit would go so tight against our Yblock. Do you happen to have a quick picture you can share showing the tight squeeze you're facing? What hydro boost unit did you go with?

[clusterbuster]

I bought mine from Matt Sweeting's Speed Performance. Phone number 714 330 5286. The price was $505.00 with shipping.You also need a hose kit that may set you back a couple hundred depending on where you get them. Sweeting was slow getting it to me and I had to drill a couple of holes in the mounting plate to make it fit. It works real good though, but pricey. Have a picture, not the best shot, and will try to post when I have time.

[clusterbuster]

Here is the picture of the hydro boost in relation to the valve cover. Not the best but that is what I have saved.

[RICH MUISE]

Wow...totally different than the early o's Mustang units. Thanks for posting that Cluster. Did that price include the Master cylinder?

Not really relevant because of engine difference, but I do have to loosen the boost unit so I can angle it out of the way to remove the cop/plug from the back cylinder.

[gasman826]

rotating 180 degrees would put the accumulator on the left side and the hose nest on the bottom...problem solved.

[rmk57]

If the hoses have enough flex to swing it out of the way I would just unbolt it for the once every 1 or 2 year valve lash setting.

[clusterbuster]

I feel it would make a lot more work to clock it, so probably do as you suggest as just loosen the bolts and swing it out of the way. May have to take the pedal rod off the pedal to get enough swing. Had I known that the unit could be clocked, I would have done that  when installing it. Thanks for all the comments guys.

[clusterbuster]

No the master cylinder did not come with the hydro boost. I had a new CPP shallow bore master that was on my vacuum boosters. Had nothing but trouble with the vacuum booster set up. I would recommend any one with power steering to convert over. Hardly have to exert the pedal to stop.