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What holes in the Firewall can I weld up?

Started by KYBlueOval, 2017-02-16 19:01

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KYBlueOval

The Ranchero I'm building was brought home in boxes. It was 95% disassembled, therefore I have no first hand knowledge as to  what the various holes are for, and which firewall holes can be eliminated. I'm hoping some of them can be welded up. I've got a Vintage Air system, so the heater and heater blower motor holes will be filled . Is there a photo or drawing that shows what the various holes are for?
What is your advice?
Thanks
John

Ford Blue blood

Just weld them all up as I did then make new ones as needed.  There are a couple of fire wall shots in my build thread. Plan down the road on what you envision the final product to look like.  I wanted mine to be as clean as possible while still having an ability to do routine maintenance on the various systems.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

Jeff Norwell

Here is a clean shot of a firewall.... as Bill noted. you can weld all up and make new ones....
"Don't get Scared now little Fella"

1957 Ford Custom-428-4 speed
1957 Ford Custom 300-410-4 speed


http://www.norwell-equipped.com

Ecode70D

Jeff
     If it were me, I would go by the picture that you posted, because in my mind I don't see any extra
holes.
      Certainly someone else will chime in and confirm this.
       This is a great site.
J>>>-------> 

Ford Blue blood

Or like this....
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

gasman826

Since you're going custom, fill 'em all except for the ones you know for sure you're going to use.  Easier to drill than fill later.  If you are filling the heater area, fill the cowl seam.  While you're fixing things, epoxy tubes in for the cowl drains and fix that issue once and for all.  The Vintage Air Gen IV Magnum fits like a glove except the right fresh air vent is in the way.  Fill that big hole!  The left vent will give all the fresh air you need.  Fill the little holes for the fasteners for the inside firewall pad.  Sooooo many new sound and thermal products that are easier to install and work around (Dyna Mat, Lizard Skin, etc. especially with AC...insulate...insulate).  That pad is an expense dust magnet.  I would weld up the bell housing bolt access holes and the band adjustment access hole (tunnel area) unless your are running Y-block and FordOMatic.  Those plugs are expensive and leak.

suede57ford

Some of the upper holes are necessary for the wiper pulleys, unless you convert to '58 style under dash wipers under the dash(not that easy to do).   I would find another '57 locally to look at as some are for the emergency brake, hood cable wiper motor cable, speedometer.   Yes many can be removed, but it's hard to drill back through a weld, and would be nice to have paint on the edges all the necessary holes instead of bare metal on freshly drilled hole.

I would leave the trough that goes down the firewall on.  I removed it on my ranch wagon back when all the Boyd&Troy cars were being smoothed and it doesn't have any character anymore.  I'm about to graft a trough back on it to give it some character lines back.  I'm running the factory heater delete firewall plates  since I'm using vintage air too. 

I like how the black firewall pictured had the trough extended where the large heater holes were welded up
57 2dr Sedan, Black,VR57 Supercharged Y-block
57 T-bird, 460 C6
57 Ranchwagon, 5.0 AOD
57 Ranchero, VR57 Supercharged
57 Courier Delivery, 460 C6
57 2dr Sedan, Red/White
69 Mach1 428 R-Code
69 Talladega 428
69 Bronco 5.0
70 Torino Cobra SCJ 4spd,4:30 Drag Pak
34 Ford P.U. 427 Ford, 2-4s
69 Boss 429

KYBlueOval

Thank to all that replied. A lot of good information. I have no reference points on my Car, as it was apart when I bought it. I believe I know where there is a retractable that I can use as a reference. I really like extending the fire wall seam across the welded up heater area. I'll do that, as well as the bell housing bolt access holes and band adjustment holes. I ground the lip off the right fresh air vent. Didn't know at this point if the lip would be in the way for the Vintage air. It's gone now. That hole will be welded up soon.
Not sure which holes were used for the inside firewall pad.
Thanks again.

gasman826

I know it is a ton of work, but the vehicle needs to be fully fitted and assembled.  Drill the holes you need and mark the ones you don't.  After everything fits, clears and works, take it all apart, fill holes and weld in panels.  Cutting corners will come back later to haunt you big time!  Skipping pre-assembly of a OEM basket case is one thing, but customizing on the fly will bite you.  You don't want to drill, cut or hammer on fresh paint!!!!!

KYBlueOval

Quote from: gasman826 on 2017-02-17 19:01
I know it is a ton of work, but the vehicle needs to be fully fitted and assembled.  Drill the holes you need and mark the ones you don't.  After everything fits, clears and works, take it all apart, fill holes and weld in panels.  Cutting corners will come back later to haunt you big time!  Skipping pre-assembly of a OEM basket case is one thing, but customizing on the fly will bite you.  You don't want to drill, cut or hammer on fresh paint!!!!!
Gasman.........we think the same way sir. To start with this Ranchero will be in primer and then built. Completely built and running correctly. When I get to that point, I'll blow it apart and paint it and reassemble. The other cars I have were done the same way. I was just trying to get jump on the welding up of some of the firewall holes. I appreciate your advice and interest.
Thanks
John

suede57ford

#10
Don't weld up the hole under the hood latch.  It's there if the hood cable ever breaks.   Also make the RH Vent have a bolt on cover instead of welding. That is where you go under the dash with a long screwdriver to push the center firewall plug out and push the hood latch open if the cable ever breaks of the screw stop on the end slides or comes loose.  I've had to do it on my car twice in the last 22 years and on several other '57's.

The emergency brake lever has two studs that point out the firewall and use nuts.  I've welded the studs into the firewall and put the nuts on the inside, that way the lower LH corner looks smooth, like the RH as in Jeff's picture.
57 2dr Sedan, Black,VR57 Supercharged Y-block
57 T-bird, 460 C6
57 Ranchwagon, 5.0 AOD
57 Ranchero, VR57 Supercharged
57 Courier Delivery, 460 C6
57 2dr Sedan, Red/White
69 Mach1 428 R-Code
69 Talladega 428
69 Bronco 5.0
70 Torino Cobra SCJ 4spd,4:30 Drag Pak
34 Ford P.U. 427 Ford, 2-4s
69 Boss 429

KYBlueOval

Quote from: suede57ford on 2017-02-17 20:09
Don't weld up the hole under the hood latch.  It's there if the hood cable ever breaks.   Also make the RH Vent have a bolt on cover instead of welding. That is where you go under the dash with a long screwdriver to push the center firewall plug out and push the hood latch open if the cable ever breaks of the screw stop on the end slides or comes loose.  I've had to do it on my car twice in the last 22 years and on several other '57's.

The emergency brake lever has two studs that point out the firewall and use nuts.  I've welded the studs into the firewall and put the nuts on the inside, that way the lower LH corner looks smooth, like the RH as in Jeff's picture.

Very good advice. I knew that the plug beneath the Hood Latch was there so the latch could be released if the cable broke, but could not really comprehend how one was going to get to it to release it. The emergency brake mounting idea is excellent.
Thanks

Ecode70D

   X2 what Pat said about the holes that you should keep.

   John You can access the inside hood release hole from inside.
   Between the heater plenum chamber and the defroster, there is a flexible connection. It's in about the middle of the inside firewall section.   Pop out that connection and you will see the hole .  Take a screw driver and pop out the rubber plug and let it fall.    Stick the screw driver in the hole.  You will feel the hood release. 
    Move the tip of it to the left and the hood will open.  Sorry I don't have a picture.  Don't forget to look under the car for the rubber plug so you can use it again. 

     Back in the old days when 57 Fords were in just about every junk yard, a friend of mine broke his hood release cable.  He cut a hole in the hood to get access to the release.  After that he had to go  to the junk yard to get another hood.  I learned real fast about those directions.  I too have had to open the hood that way in the past.  Jay

RICH MUISE

Or you can go almost overboard with the cleanup....... No heater holes, no latch at all, no firewall mounted wipers or any of the associated wiper access holes, no recess where the latch was, etc.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe