Exhaust System for 57 Fairlane

[JimNolan]

Guys, I need some help here. I'm sitting in a part of the country that people working on your car are best likely to tear it up worse. And, I need a new exhaust system for my 57 Fairlane. The guy that made the 2 1/4" system I run now cobbled it up. I'm looking for a pre-made system that I can install myself with little welding and preferably clamp type connections. I can have someone take off the ball and socket collector and mate it to the rest of the system but I'm looking a 2 1/2" mild steel system + mufflers that I can install myself using existing hanger locations.
Does anyone know of a good source for pre-made exhaust systems. Thanks guys.

[gasman826]

There are bunches of pre bent systems available but few in 2-1/2".  I custom built 2-1/2" stainless for the Raunch Wagon but it was a challenge...doable but challenge.  Getting past the OEM cross member without exposing the pipes to road-rash is tough.  When I did the engine/trans swap, I modified a '64 Galaxie convertible cross member and it had adequate humps in it to pass pipes under without too much road exposure.  After passing the cross member, I squeezed the pipes tight to the drive shaft and rear foot wells.  This area has the most exposure to road-rash.  Your choice of muffler location:  oval mufflers under the rear floor or round mufflers tucked in front of the rear bumper.  2-1/2" over axle pipes will be squeezed between the floor and axle upon full bottom-out.

The Custom has 3" stainless but the frame and body was customized for the 3" tailpipes.

[RICH MUISE]

I was kinda thinking along the same lines in that IF somebody did make an oem system, it sure wouldn't be 2 1/2". I've only had a 6 cyl, but what was dual exhaust on a factory 312.....2"?
Also, my 2 1/2" pipes are over the tranny crossmember clearing both the floor and crossmember, but obviously not by much.

[Ecode70D]

    Years ago when I was fixing up my car I bought a stock dual exhaust system  and when it arrived, it looked pretty good so I just put it away with all of the other stuff.  About 10-15 years later when I tried to hook it up to my Y block, the pipes were only sort of what they should have been.   I spent about 2 weeks cutting, fitting, bending and welding to get it in. 
      I've been  driving the car for about 3  years now and It's holding up well
      Hopefully things have improved since that time.

[JimNolan]

Looks good gasman, My 2 1/2" pipe coming from the headers ends right before it gets to the transmission cross member and then it's 2 1/4" back to the muffler (goes between the cross member and floorboard). I'm hoping I can add a longer section of 2 1/2" pipe back to the mufflers and install a 2 1/2" electric cutout at that point. Just leave the 2 1/4" mufflers and tailpipes alone. I only need a 2 1/2" system when I decide to open it up and that's not that often.

[gasman826]

Should work...straight pipe will just need some fine tuning.

electric cutout PIC

[SkylinerRon]

Rich,
All the pipes on V-8 57's were 2"
The stock headpipes were flattened on one side where they passed the crossmember except
on X frame cars.

Ron.

[John Palmer]

It should not be very difficult to make a short "oval tubing" section to pass over the cross member with a hydraulic press and a two 10" long 2 by 4's serving as your mandrels. 

I don't think you would cause much additional restriction going from 2 1/2" round, to 2" oval because the cross section of the tubing will get wider in the oval area.

I like to make an "X" pipe using two 90's and bringing the curves together, but it might compound your ground clearance issues. If you can't fit in the "X" pipe to your design, at least use a normal type "H" pipe in your head pipe.

[rmk57]

Years ago I had a friend who owned a Midas shop who bent me a complete exhaust for my 58 Edsel wagon. The neat thing was he didnt have the car at his shop but what he did have have was the bending card. The bending card gives you the bends in degrees from side to side and up and down and the lengths between the bends. I was a bit skeptical about it but when I got it home to install it fit perfectly.

I built my exhaust out of 3" aluminized tubing from one of those kits that has all the different style bends. I also built my own trans crossmember that sits a little higher than stock so I could have my exhaust go below the crossmember. I can load the car on a typical 16 foot car trailer with the 5 foot ramps and still have plenty of clearance. I think you have two choices, either build it yourself the way you want it or get a custom exhaust from a reputable shop. I doubt theres anything in a catalog that you wont be cutting up anyway.

Randy

[John Palmer]

I agree with Randy, on custom built is best.

The one thing I have observed from building a few exhaust systems over the years is that it's usually not difficult to route the tubing.  The thing that takes all of the time is fabricating nice support hangers, and getting it all symmetrical.

You need to plan the hangers to allow for the system to have up to 1/2" of linear growth from heat expansion.   

[gasman826]

I've been well satisfied with the rod type universal hanger.  Easy to install and hold well.  Not period correct.

An example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Southern-Swinger-Exhaust-Hanger-3-8-Rod-Qty-10/201448264501?hash=item2ee7409335:g:J~IAAOSw5ZBWHSHF&vxp=mtr

For period correct, I make them.   Originals are quite expensive.