Interesting brake problem.

[Lou]

I got a interesting problem dropped in my lap today. A friend/client of mine has found a 57 - 63A that is a really nice restoration with one excepting, it has front disk brakes and that ugly mustang booster under the hood. Question is, is there any way to run the disks with an original style master cylinder and/ or a 57 style booster, fender or firewall mounted?" 

[RICH MUISE]

If by "ugly Mustang Booster", you are referring to a hydroboost, yes they are ugly, my guess is the restorer chose performance over aesthetics. You didn't mention an engine swap, so I'm guessing it has a 6 or y block. Although a superior system, the main reason most of us that went the hydroboost path did so out of necessity because they often will fit where a vacumn booster wouldn't. Most disc swap kits are designed around a standard type vaumn booster, not sure if that is specifically what you are asking. Hopefully he's not closed minded enough that he wants to go back to a single reservoir master, or he's not planning on driving it much.
The experts will have to chime in here, but I think the oem master and '57 booster design would not be adequate for the discs.
Just my 2 cents because I know why I have an ugly Mustang booster, 

[Lou]

I'm confused, I thought  there was a disk brake set up called non-power disk brakes?
The only advantage disks have is they are resistant  to fade, drum brakes stop faster, more sweep area.
If being a collector of good original or correctly restored vehicles is closed minded then I guess I and my 50 or so clients over the last 35 years must have steel traps for minds. I've never had a problem selling original or correct 50s Fords, my main problem has been finding them at reasonable prices. I'm now 76 and have health problems, so my buying any selling days are over, I do however now and then act as a middleman. (FYI I sold my appraisal business to Travler's in 2015 and let my licence expire.)

[gasman826]

PIC is of the Raunch Wagon's 'ugly Mustang' booster (just for confirmation that this is what we're talking about).  I've driven pony cars with OEM disc brakes withOUT a booster.  One was a BBC, 4 speed, pace car...stopped fine.  Disc brakes and power brakes were two separate options.  Race cars have disc brakes and certainly no booster.  My next project has no power steering and little vacuum.  I am planning four wheel disc with NO power assist.   I do know enough to know that master cylinder bore size and pedal ratio will be critical.  I will be calling tech support for their recommendations.  Disc brakes are not only fade resistant but also work better at higher speeds.

[RICH MUISE]

"closed minded" was a poor choice of words from me......sorry. I should have said different minded. I have a tendancy to over react when someone automatically downgrades a car because it's been modified.
Drum brakes stop faster? Makes me wonder why the world has changed to disc brakes. I honestly don't know if there is a non-power disc brake set up, It's not something you'd notice on a casual look, but I can't imagine why anyone would go that route. If originality is what your customer wants, why doesn't he simply revert back to the drum fronts.

Gary posted while I was typing

[KULTULZ]

If I am reading this correctly, there is a disc/drum or disc/disc system without the use of a booster (whether vacuum or hydraulic). They were popular in the later sixties and seventies for a performance car (low manifold vacuum) or a low trim level/economy (GRANADA/MAVERICK, etc.).

A HYDRO-BOOST SYSTEM will give better line pressure, but manual disc/drum is do-able.

You just need the correct MC, valving and foundation brakes.

[Ford Blue blood]

Go to Pike's Peak and you will learn a quick lesson about disc vs drums!  When modifying my Boss 302 for road racing I went with a manual master.  Just have to know about pedal ratio and master bore size.  Talking with the tech guys as Gary said is the way to go.  The Ford guys put me in the exact spot the first time out with my brake system on the Boss.  I ran "metallic" pads, best at the time (72-73), and they were spot on with their recommendation.  Been a couple of days since then and I don't recall the ratio or bore size I ran back then.  Seams like the bore was 7/8....just don't remember.

[rmk57]

Pretty sure an original single pot master would bolt right up without any booster but you would have to change the length of the rod. I would be concerned about the volume in the single reservoir master being able to supply enough fluid for disc brakes though. I run manual disc brakes which came from a 1969 Fairlane, the master cylinder is from manual brake Granada. The only difference in braking I noticed is on long downhill grades. The discs hold up better from fading than drums, but in a typical panic stop the drums are just as good as discs.

[lalessi1]

I am running a Wilwood front disc set up, I have no boost. The pedal effort is definitely higher than a drum setup, drum brakes are "self assisting", disc brakes are not. Disc brake pads move very little compared to brake shoes so I doubt they need more fluid in the reservoir than drums. Stock drum brakes are WOEFULLY inadequate, they will fade completely on a single hard stop (not locked up) from 70 mph in my experience. There is no reason I can see why a stock master cylinder (with or without the stock power booster) would not work on the set up I am using, but my caliper is fixed and not floating like most conversions. You would need a proportioning valve. I also have a 14" Ford wheel that fits on my discs but the stock wheels will not clear. You WOULD be compromising safety by not using a dual master cylinder though.

[junior58]

I have been considering swapping to front discs and dual master cylinder but retaining the original 57 pedal booster (advice sought previously on here said it should work)

[Ranch]

My 2 Cents on brakes is; the best thing you can do for your safety is Duel Master, after that it's just a matter of opinion. If you have your drum brakes set up properly you'll stop just as fast as disc (I'm talkin everyday diving)  I remember and I'm sure there others here who have seen drums drilled to vent off water and gases, grooves in shoes were there to vent gases also.  Drums are self energizing, don't take as much pedal effort as discs, you can lockem up just as well as discs.  Yes you can install manual front discs but you should use a master designed for for it. It will have a smaller in Dia. piston and you'll need a proportioning valve to choke down the rear drums.  I don't think we have the option for ABS, ABS let's you steer as you brake hard by not letting you lock them up.  I like drums also because they keep my wheels cleaner a lot longer   I guess it all boils down to, you got to know and realize what you are driving.... well  JMHO....     Bill

[Lou]

I've lost brakes twice on cars (Ford & Scrub) with factory original duel master cylinders, I found it takes a hell of a long time to stop with just the rear brakes working. Lost the brakes once on a 56 Ford Victoria, reached for that handle under the dash to the left of the steering column, took the same time to stop as the duel master cars.   

[Ray]

The original under dash booster should work. It won't provide the boost the modern systems provide but you don't have that huge booster in the engine compartment. Make sure you have all the components, including the reserve tank and the check valve. It may be necessary to provide a custom drive rod.