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fuel-pump issues

Started by racton, 2018-07-10 21:36

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chapingo17

Thank you for so much feed back I was having the same type of problem with my car (Vapor lock). I will start buying 100% fuel, I'm also running a mechanical OEM fuel pump. I was taking to the owner of the fuel station were they sell 100% gas in  (Albuquerque, NM) and he was telling me that back in the late 50's early 60's fuel stations were selling gasoline 98-103 octane. Amazing how much things have changed thru out the years. Thanks again

chapingo17

By talking to a mechanic he was telling me that I might have an issue with the fuel pump itself. Cheap fuel pump? Not sure if I should change the pump or run 100% gasoline?

KULTULZ

Quote from: chapingo17 on 2018-07-30 20:35

By talking to a mechanic he was telling me that I might have an issue with the fuel pump itself. Cheap fuel pump? Not sure if I should change the pump or run 100% gasoline?

Consider performing a fuel pressure/delivery volume test before buying a replacement pump.

When a car stalls like this, the first thing to do is jump out and verify fuel delivery and/or spark. It might be fuel delivery and/or bad IGN part.
MEL DIVISION - 1958-1960

MERCURY - EDSEL - LINCOLN

chapingo17

I decided to go with an electric fuel pump. Pretty cheap $50 at most auto parts stores. I really think that gasoline boils at fuel pump.

RICH MUISE

Eric.......Others may want to chime in here, and I'm not sure if what I'm going to suggest is what I was told because of my EFI. Not sure if it applies to a carb. engine, but I was told if the pump is not going to be installed in the gas tank, that it should have a reserve cannister installed in the fuel line just before the electric pump to keep the pump supplied on acceleration.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

chapingo17

Ok thanks for the heads up. Has anyone experience vapor lock with a stock y block and mechanical pump?

suede57ford

The carbureted car should not starve for fuel with an external electric pump because it always has some reserve fuel in the bowls most of the time.

A fuel injected car needs a baffle/tray in the tank to keep the fuel pump from getting uncovered when the tank is low and the there is momentary lack of fuel in the pump which drops the fuel pressure and the motor can stall almost instantly.

The reservoir type electric fuel pumps on th market are a way to convert to fuel injection without having to get a special fuel injection gas tank with baffles, tray and an intank pump.  Keep in mind that the reservoir tank pump is sort of a temporary fix as many have still have the issues of electric fuel pump overheating with this situation just like an external fuel injection pump due to not being cooled by being submersed in the cool fuel in the tank.  The reserve tank pumps can be very unreliable in hot weather when driving for a length of time often just a temporary fix till you can get a custom injection tank built out of a new reproduction tank.  57 Chby injection tanks are really cheap an d can be made work for some, but you have to relocate the neck for a sedan and they hold less fuel than an original ford tank as they are not as long.

A low pressure external fuel pump can work ok, as it does not generate the amount of heat that a high pressure fuel injected pump does.

The only true method to know if you are loosing fuel pressure with either an engine mounted fuel pump or external electric is to attach a temporary fuel gauge "T'd" inline before the carb.  You can tape a temporary gauge to the windshield and go drive around and watch the fuel pressure.   Normally with a carb you want to maintain 5-6 psi at all times. 
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