Power steer ram leaking

[junior58]

The ram is leaking in Victoria, appears to be where the control valve bolts to the main ram tube; guessing the gasket has let go. I have a factory 57 workshop manual and it looks to be relatively simple job, can remove the control valve without having to pull the whole ram out. I?m just wanting to see if there are any little tricks to it that they don?t tell you in the manual, if anyone has done one.
Thanks, Steve.

[thomasso]

Sounds like your control valve is the problem.  Very prone to leak and I've never had much luck keeping them leak free.  Remove hoses, two screws holding the end cap and two cap screws holding the valve and the nut on the selector rod.  There are seals on the spool valve and a metal gasket where the valve mounts.  Seal kits and rebuilt valves are available.  Good luck.

[junior58]

Sounds simple enough. Thanks.

[81TTA]

I'd guess the seals inside the control valve are actually what's leaking.  As thomasso mentioned, on their best day these systems always seem to have a drip coming from somewhere.

There are a few aftermarket replacement kits available that have everything you need to replace the seals and associated wear parts.  You can find them with just the seals.  Or, more detailed kits are available that have new ball stud, springs and other wear parts.

If you haven't separated the ball stud from the pitman arm before, let me offer some advice (freely available in the manual).  Go buy or rent a scissor-like ball joint separator like this : https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html .  If you try using a pickle fork separator to force things, you'll just pop the stud out of the control valve assembly.  I pieced my system together from various sources on ebay and craigslist over the course of a couple years.  It was very obvious who was using the right tool to separate the parts and who wasn't! 

Like everything related to steering, do your best to mark the original orientation of the control valve to the drag link.  Count the number of threads showing and scribe or paint some alignment marks on the valve and drag link so it goes back together the same way in the same place.  Once you have the control valve off the car, disassembly and reassembly is pretty straightforward.  The service manual has some good pictures for reference. 

[Tom S]

...Go buy or rent a scissor-like ball joint separator like this : https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html ....

Some auto parts stores in the states will loan you tools for free, including one like that.
Borrowed one from Autozone about a year or so ago.

[gasman826]

A pickle fork is a great tool but never use it on a joint that will be reused.  At the very least, the boot will be damaged and likely damage to joint.  Hit the support at a right angle to the tapered shaft.  I typically use an air chisel with a blunt or hammer bit.

[81TTA]

... I typically use an air chisel with a blunt or hammer bit....

Good advice for a ball joint or tie rod end.  But.... 

DO NOT do this on the control valve ball stud!  The ball stud is held in the control valve by a relatively small/thin bushing.  It won't survive much, if any, force when trying to separate it from the pitman arm.  You have to use something like I posted where the tool is simultaneously "pulling" on the pitman arm while "pushing" on the ball stud without applying any force to the control valve assembly.  If not, you'll end up with a broken/deformed control valve assembly in one hand and a ball stud still wedged in the pitman arm in the other!

[gasman826]

rattle the pitman arm not the valve

check link...about 2-1/2 minutes into it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNK4ZXf-Quc

[81TTA]

Ah.  Now I see what you were saying...  In fact, I (sort of) use that advice even when using the tool shown above.  Apply some pressure on the stud/arm and *gently* tap on the pitman arm until the joint separates. 

For the purposes of that video applying to ball joints and tie-rod ends, I agree the bigger the hammer the better.  For the control valve, I'd go with the smallest hammer that gives you the most control.  Or, as you indicated, a blunted tool in an air hammer.  If a swing gets away from you on BJ/TRE parts with a big sledgehammer, there usually isn't anything delicate that might get hit.  If you swing and miss the pitman arm or glance off the arm, the hammer will probably do some serious damage to the control valve.

[Tom S]

...  Hit the support at a right angle to the tapered shaft. ...

Sometimes it's a good idea to use two hammers so stuff doesn't just move & lessen the shock of the hammer blow.