radiator petcock

[RICH MUISE]

does anyone know what the thread size is on our radiators?.........1/8 or 1/4 npt?

[Hoosier Hurricane]

Rich, they are 1/4" npt.   John

[RICH MUISE]

Ok, thanks John. Looks like I've got a ton of work cut out for me.
issues snowballing!.....I had a sacrificial anode in my radiator in place of the drain petcock. I needed to drain the system to install a temporary shut off valve on my heater hose. Got that done, and went to retighten the anode (I hadn't removed it all the way), so I could refill,and it broke off.
I can barely reach where it is due to the fan shroud I have. I can't find the outside portion that broke off, so it must be inside the bottom of the shroud. Apparently the threaded portion was very thin walled and the anode pressed into that, and what I have left is that thin walled threaded portion still in the threaded hole.  I hadn't even started to tighten it when it broke, so I'm thinking maybe I wasn't unthreading it when the coolant started draining, and I was probably was breaking the brass hex head away from the threaded neck where the anode was pressed in. The anode is now sitting in the bottom tank of the radiator. That's ok I guess.
I tried an easy out, but no luck so far. The broken part isn't budging, which is why I'm thinking I wasn't unthreading it at all because it should be relatively loose. I have to remove the hood to remove my radiator because I have the radiator mounted forward of the core support. GRRRR#@!^$! I'll try the easy out one more time, but I for sure don't want to damage the radiator by trying to work it from odd angles.

[RICH MUISE]

BTW, I won't use that type of an anode again. They are available in a radiator cap version.
And the reason I was installing a shut off valve on my heater hose is I believe the reason I have had cool air and not cold air is the electric Vintage Air valve on the heater supply line is stuck in the open position. I have to remove the fender to get to that valve, so I thought before I do that, I'd install a temp. valve to see if that fixes the problem. I think the evaporator is trying to work simultaneously with the heater core.
I guess it's gonna be awhile before I can get back to that issue.

[hiball3985]

YIKES!! Rich I'm sorry that you have experienced this problem with the aniode. I don't know how you could of turned it the wrong way and you probably didn't.
I almost ordered that type but at the last minute I decided to go with the other type. But then I didn't like the way the two wires were effecting the seal on the cap, it may have been fine but I just didn't like it. I ended up putting mine in the radiator inlet pipe, bending the wires over the pipe and then attaching the hose. I was a little concerned about it restricting flow but I have not experienced and problem. I did the 57 and my Mustang the same way.

[RICH MUISE]

Yep.....this is going to be a major pita to fix properly. I had such a hard time to finally get my radiator hoses to stop leaking;  removing the fan shroud is tedious because of the way I assembled it on the bench; hood has to come off because I moved the radiator mounting flanges forward of the core support, so it has to come straight up; uncertainty about whether or not I can get the remains of the annode out without damaging the radiator, so I may be looking at having a new bung welded on. All that with not wanting to get help here with the virus thing. I'm glad I saw Bill's post on removing/installing a hood alone, but...............

ALL THAT  VS:

jd weld the hole closed. If I need to drain the radiator, I'll loosen the bottom hose. If the radiator ever needs to be pulled, I'll fix it properly at that time.
I'm waiting for the stuff to set up.

[RICH MUISE]

Took it out for a 40 mile run including some anticipated stop and go traffic. The JB weld seems to be holding, and no leaks where I installed the shut off valve either.......yay!!
Now to get the A/C charged so I can see if I eliminated a problem. Could have used it today.

[RICH MUISE]

Prior to putting in the temp. shut off valve on the heater supply line, with the heater off, the s.s. return line would get so hot after 20 minutes you couldn't touch it. One thing I forgot to do yesterday after that drive was to check the return line for temp. Oh well, my dog needed to go for a ride, so took it back out today. 60 miles, got home, popped the hood, and the return line was just luke warm! yay! Now, as I said, I need to get the A/C serviced, and I'll bet this time I have cold air!!
I may or may not be able to replace the Vintage Air heater shut off valve without taking the fender off. Gotta do it, or I'll be opening and closing the hood everytime I want heat vs air. In n. Texas or in the mountains, it's not unusual to be using both on the same day. I gotta think on it for a while, maybe there's another alternative to a Vintage Air valve that is known to have issues.

[RICH MUISE]

I've got cold air! It's not quite as cold as I'd like, but much much better. The A/C shops were closed until Monday, so I just recharged the system with a can. The outside temps were only in the low 70's yesterday, but I think it'll be ok even on a hot day.
I'm going to order another Vintage Air valve, I think, and ask them to check it before shipping. I'm also going to install the new one where I can reach it without removing the fender. More underhood clutter, but....
Another related issue I'd like opinions on.:
Wanting to keep any unnecessary water out, I had closed off my cowl outside grille by putting a rubber coating on the screen under the cowl grille. On a hot day, I often feel heat radiating out from under the dash. My firewall is insulated, but not the cowl. I'm thinking after enough time, the cowl is building up heat that can't escape, and that's what is generating the heat inside the dash area. Thoughts?

[gasman826]

Temporarily remove the screen, maybe some of the heat will circulate out.  This is one of the reasons I remove the dash so I put several layers of Lizard Skin all the way up to the windshield gasket flange.  On the engine side, I keep the firewall clean above the seam but spray a generous application of Lizard Skin from the seam to the back bumper.  I also fill the pillars with pillar foam...helps with noise, air leakage, moisture barrier, and stops mice from getting to the headliner.

[KYBlueOval]

Gary, could you please post the name of the "pillar foam" or describe it so I could buy some? Do you recall where you purchased it?
Does this foam absorb / retain water? If you know.
Thanks
John

[gasman826]

I've forgotten the brand but it is automotive pillar foam used in late models for added, structual strength as wells as insulation.  Probably a SEM or 3M product that I got at automotive paint supply.  It doesn't expand a lot and is waterproof.  As I remember it is a little pricey but what isn't.  On the Custom, I filled the A piller, B pillar, C pillar and the void inside the driprail.  I would use it again.

[RICH MUISE]

John........two trains of thought on that pillar foam.....the other is there's a good chance water will get in no matter what you do, so don't block in what's gotta drain out.