Rear Disc Brakes

[KidKourier]

     Has anyone installed a rear disc brake setup on a 9" rear with small bearings?If so,what kit (Master Power,Ford Racing,Jegs,etc.) how was the install and after effects?Was it worth the cost or would 11" drum brakes work as well for the money?Were you able to use stock emergency brake cables or do you have to modify them or are different ones sent with kit? Also is there a special tool used to take out the drain plug in the bottem of the housing on the rear end(I've tried 1/2" and 3/8" neither fits)?  KID

[4banger]

Put a screw driver or chisel in the plug that will fit corner to corner. Then turn the screw driver or chisel  with a wrench.

[57chero]

I took a short bolt and filed it into a square to fit the plug then use a wrench or socket to remove.

[rockymountaincustom]

I installed a Willwood set up on the 57 I am building. Got it from summit, and after getting the right spacer bolted right up and looks nice. Havent finished the car but it looks like the parking brake cable will work fine. Four wheel disc brakes are going to work better the drums in the back for sure, You need a perportioning valve(I am sure I spelled that wrong) in the system to dial down the back brake pressure a little but they are easy to get and plumb in.

[Geofordman]

My favourite system is a junk yard fix that works great! I used '96 Ford Taurus rear discs and caliper (modifying the rotor to 4.5 inch bolt circle from 4.25 and slightly reducing the axle flange diameter until it fit the inside of the rotor) by making a mounting plate from 3/16 steel plate and bolting it on using a trimmed down original backing plate as a spacer( the bearing sticks out of the housing 1/8 inch). I used this system on my '64 fairlane and it worked great. I used a '86 Mustang SVO 4 wheel disc master (15/16 bore) no booster and Granada front brakes and spindles. I removed the adjustable proportioning valve as it was doing nothing (it was wide open) it stopped great, the beauty of this system is that all the parts are Ford and available anywhere. I will try to put together some pics. as I am doing this system on my '57, it is really simple and using junkyard parts less than $150.00 including a rebuilt Master.

[BAMA_57]

Geofordman
Can you show step by step or maybe some pictures? It sounds complicated but I like the price...
Ron

[Geofordman]

Sorry this took so long to get back to, but I tried once before and the site kicked my pics. out and lost an hours worth of work, so I have settled down and will try again.

[Geofordman]

O-K I got the pics. loaded and now I can tell the tale...The rotors are '96 Taurus, they have a 4.25 in. bolt circle, so each lug hole needs to be elongated by an eighth of an inch. the axle needs to be turned down on a lathe to fit inside the back of the rotor (about .100 in.). I like a snug fit so that the rotor actually supports the axle flange for strength. the wheel when bolted on will stop the rotor from moving around and the snug axle centers the whole affair. The caliper is '96 Taurus and is mounted to the diff. housing using three of the original axle retainer bolts and a piece of 3/16th plate. First remove the backing plate and cut the center out of it or make a plate like the ones in the picture. This plate takes up the space of the old backing plate because the bearing sticks out of the housing by about .100 in. The odd shaped plate is 3/16 thick and is used to retain the bearing so the inside diameter should clear the inner bearing race but cover the outer portion of the bearing to retain it in the housing. Once you have the axle cut down, slide your spacer plate over the bearing and put the axle in the housing. Using a couple of lugnuts fasten the rotor to the axle. Now assemble your brake pads to your caliper and clamp it onto the rotor so that the bleed screw faces up and each e-brake cable runs to the front(caliper on the back side of the disc). I use a vise-clamp to do this but a c-clamp will work. with the caliper clamped in it's place on the rotor use a peice of cardboard or thin piece of plywood and make a copy of what the mounting plate will look like and also mark the holes where the bolts go. the calipers mount using some aftermarket 18 millimeter (wrench size) bolts about 1 1/2 long (no shoulder) and the bearing end uses three of original retaining bolts. You could make the plate use all four bolts but it must be put on instead of the original plate which was held on with the bearing. Using only three bolts allows the plate to go on after the axle is in place. I use the original Taurus brake hoses and adaptors to mix the metric bubble flare to 3/16 std. steel line, Weatherhead #'s 7976 and 7974 or Edelman(NAPA) 265000 and 270330. I will try very soon to post a pic. of the installed assembly.