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source for door key lock to latch rods

Started by RICH MUISE, 2011-08-22 12:04

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RICH MUISE

I need to buy a new set of the door flip cover key cylinder assemblies for my Custom 2 door. I can find these no problem but I can't find any of the short connecting 'rods' that clip on to the end of the cylinder and hook to the door latch assembly. Anyone have a source for these? I'd prefer NOS because these apparently fatigue over time, so I don't know how long an old used one would last.
A few years back I saw an ad from a supplier that had the rods included, but have not been able to relocate wherever it was I saw them. Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

Also was curious..I've seen ads for door lock assemblies in the past that differentiated between station wagons and everything else. I am assuming the only station wagons that would be different would be the squires with the "wood" moulding because that is where the keylock is, neccesitating a longer reach to the inside latch. It seems like the country sedans without the wood trim would use the same keylocks as the passenger cars.???
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

My car was missing the connector from the cylinder to door latch on the drivers side door.  I just purchased the missing part as a pair for two doors from:

http://www.kolars1957fordparts.com/Inventory.htm

He told me that these are not being reproduced and he has a very limited supply.  He charged me $50 for the pair.  I haven't got them yet, but should by the end of next week.

Rich

RICH MUISE

RichThanks for the info...I'll check to see if he has any more..do you know if they are used or nos?
Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

I am pretty sure that they are used.

I looked into the passenger side door to see what the piece looked like.  I had thought that perhaps I could fabriciate one.  If I had one in hand, maybe, but it is a complex part and I felt that if these work for me, it will be a good deal. 

Rich

RICH MUISE

Yeah...it took two years , but I just bought a NOS pair of the tail pieces on ebay. Not sure if he has more..I went back to look at the ad again after I bought them, and the ad was gone, which I guess indicates it was a one set only ad.(37.50 free shiping)
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Now that I know what the part looks like, they are also for sale at Concours Parts & Accs. page 130 in their 1949-1959 catalog.  Part # B7A-6421970-A (for right hand).  They are $59.95 each.

I still have a problem.  My door lock has a broken pot metal part at the end that captures the operating lever.  Oh well, money will solve the problem.

Rich

RICH MUISE

#7
Rich...I haven't received mine yet, but I'm curious to see what makes them a right and a left. I only had my original passenger side, so I couldn't tell from what I had. The right and left parts look the same to me in the pics..maybe I'm missing something.
Also, the reason I was missing my drivers side was that, as you mentioned about yours, the ass end of the lock cylinder casting that holds the tailpiece was broken. I'm surprised I didn't find the lever at the bottom of the door when I disassembled the car. I thought I had remembered the actual tailpiece being broken, but I was wrong, so what I said about the old tailpieces fatiguing and breaking was inaccurate.
I can't believe I hadn't seen the tailpieces at Concourse...thanks for the heads up, although at 120. a set I'm glad I didn't.
I just checked the online catalog....diferent page there, but click on door lock components in the left column and they'll come up. Apparently at 60. each, the manufacturer doesn't feel they can afford to include the little spring that holds it in place..good thing maybe, they'd probably want another ten bucks for that. If it sounds like I'm on a rant, I am...60. is ridiculous for that part.
Rich
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

ROKuberski

Rich,

The difference between the left and right is a very suttle change in the angle where the piece fits into the end of the lock cylinder.  You are right, the cost is a rip off for these small parts.

Okay, try this:  http://www.classicautopartsonlinecatalog.com/WebProject.asp?CodeId=7.4.1.47&BookCode=fsz10flx&from=2

I'm not sure if the link will take you to the right page, but this is in the full size Ford book, page 231, left column just above the center is the same lever, but only for the right side.  It's $5.95.  Go figure.

Rich

RICH MUISE

HMMMM...interesting....I guess when I get my new lock cylinders, and have my new tail pieces I'll be able to tell the difference in left and right. The curious thing for me at this point, not having the parts, is that they advertise the cylinders as being left and right being the same cylinder. So, if that's true, I'm wondering why the difference in the tail pieces where they fit into the cylinders.
I also find it strange that classic auto advertises the right hand tail pieces as "stronger than original", telling me they are pepros, so why would they reproduce the right hand and not the left that is the one most likely to need replacing.(maybe they couldn't find a right hand one to copy, or maybe they just sold all the left hands they had repoped?)
LOL...I spend way too much time thinking about little things.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

not related, but this thread got me to remembering a similar instance with concourse..When I rebuilt my front end, I ordered my ball joints from them and also the upper and lower control arm shafts. They charged me 180.00 EACH for the upper control arm shafts. I later found out if I had gotten my ball joints from Kanter at similar pricing, I could have added the upper Control arm shafts for something like 60. SET.
a 300. difference!! I got screwed as far as I was concerned, but it was a good lesson and it won't happen again from Concourse.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

Rich could it be that back in the day men got out of the car, locked the door, went around, opened the door for the lady, closed it and locked it with the key?  Maybe not...as I remember we never locked the car, matter of fact the keys never got lost because they were always in the ignition.

Always shop the vendors......not sure how they price stuff but sometimes there is a huge difference.  Rubber is the only product I don't shop.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

ROKuberski

Maybe, way back in the olden days that's how it was done.  I also have a '37 Chevy and the only door that could be unlocked from the outside (they could all be locked from the outside by pushing down the door lock button and pulling down on the door handle then closing the door) is the front passenger side door.  I moved that handle to the left front because I don't always have a passenger.

You are right about shopping around for parts.  The problem this time was that I did not even have a good idea what the part looked like.  As it turns out, I needed a left side and the only reproduction parts seem to be right side.  That seems odd.

Rich

Ford Blue blood

My 36 Chevy is/was the same way, switched them around, lock the passenger door from the inside now and the drivers door with the key.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

The angle of the flat in relation to the bent finger is oposite one another left to right. I went back to the ad where I had purchased them and copied the picture. Note the little cast "r" on one of them
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe