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Got my adapter from Mummert to put the T5 with my 312...

Started by JPotter57, 2011-12-23 10:21

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JPotter57

After New Years, I will be doing the swap, and will take pictures as I can to chronicle the swap.  There isn't really much to it, other than drilling two holes in the bellhousing.  I will be using a good 98 model T5, which means I will have to swap the input shaft for a Fox body T5 input shaft.  That will be a small project in itself.  The reason I chose a 98 model, is because it was a very good deal, and is immaculate inside, looks new.  The input shaft is about 3/4 inch longer, so I should be getting one in the mail in the next week or so.  Should make a cool tech article for our site for those interested in slowing down the engine speed of their 272-312.
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

glen b henderson

Sounds like Santa came to your house early James!
Freedom is not Free

62galxe


JPotter57

Sure did Glen!
Thanks, 62...I will check with them for an input shaft.
1957 Ford Custom 427 2x4 4 spd
Old, loud, and fast.

lowrider

Did that swap a couple years ago on my Custom 300. What a difference! The car is a joy to drive now. I ended up using a trans mount from a 90 Mustang & a drive shaft (cut down an inch) from a late 80's Continental.

Custom300Madman

Any pictures on the T-5 swap? I have a friend that's family owns a mustang restoration parts place. What mustang 1990 trans cross member would I be asking for?
1957 Ford Custom 300 Fourdoor, with factory 312 yblock

lowrider

I used the 57 crossmember and the 90 Must rear trans mount. I dont know if anyone else had this problem, but I had clearance problems with the trans going back in my Custom300. I had to unbolt the pressure plate and let it hang there before it would go in. It was real close to the floorboard & I couldnt get the trans up high enough to go in. I ended up cutting about 3/8in. out of the metal in the mount & rewelding it to get enough floorboard clearance. I think I also loosened the motor mounts & pushed up on the front of the engine to get more room when it went back in. The whole thing had to be a "labor of love" because I did it on my back in winter time in Mi. The end result was worth it though. The car is a joy to drive.

Custom300Madman

So would it be easier than to install the t5 while it was bolted to the y block?
1957 Ford Custom 300 Fourdoor, with factory 312 yblock

57AGIN

Custom300Madman:

I'm certainly no expert on the subject, but if you have clearance problems getting the T-5 bolted onto an installed 312 I don't see how it could be bolted onto the engine and then slipped into the engine bay over the motor mount X-member.  Maybe if the car was jacked high enough off the ground to give clearance to a dangling tailshaft and then inched backward into position it might work.  But, if the T-5 housing is too tall and requires a floor board cut to fit, I don't see how it would make things any easier.

Bob
57 AGIN

Custom300Madman

I like the idea of having a t5 but I do not yet own a welder nor a 60-gallon compressor capable of cutting sheet metal. I'm looking to install the 312 with a tranny bolted on to it as I pulled the combo ou together.

-Keith
1957 Ford Custom 300 Fourdoor, with factory 312 yblock

lowrider

I didnt have to modify my floorboards to get clearance, just cut the metal part of the rear mount a bit and got enough clearance so it fit. You can probably put the engine/T5 assy. in as one just leave the rear crossmember out. We put a 410/C6 combo in a 58 "square bird" last summer and it fit. Even though we left the crossmember out we still had quite an angle when it went in. The T5 WILL fit in your car, without modifying the body. It will be worth whatever troubles you run into to get it installed. Driving my 57 now is an absolute joy with the 5sp.

dgasman

To install the engine and trans bolted together jack up the rear of the car as high as you can and put your jack stands under the rear end . Leave the font tires on the ground . this give a nice almost straight shot into the engine bay. once the engine is close you can lower the rear to align every thing up. 
HAPPY MOTORING
dgasman

57AGIN

dgasman:

Now that sounds like a very reasonable solution to the problem.

Bob
57 AGIN

gasman826

I have put 460/C6 combos in and I modified the tunnel both times.  My current project is a 460 with a Lakewood bell and a TKO600.  This car has been apart and together so many times that the bolts jump into place.  I tried taking the 460 out and leaving the bell housing/trans in the car.  Even with a modified tunnel, there is NO access to the bell housing bolts.  I have removed the transmission by itself.  It will come out but I have to remove the shifter assembly because the trans will not down enough to clear the floor (the heads are against the firewall).  I routinely put the engine/trans in and out of the car as an assembly.  I also remove the front clip everytime.  Anyway, when I bought my TKO new from the Tremec dealer, I was given the option of a shorter input shaft or a spacer plate.  The spacer plate was cheaper.  I turned my nose up a the thought of an adapter/spacer plate and opted for the shorter input shaft.  Even with the 460 pushed back as far as possible without firewall modifications and the shifter in the rear most position, I would like the shifter a bit more to the rear.  That cheaper adapter/spacer would have been just right.  Next time I will go the cheaper route.  Just a though...spacer or shorter input shaft.  Oh, the member in Michigan on his back in the cold,  call me...we will put it on the hoist and tell war stories and bench race.