diesel fuel or kerosene trick to flush sludge

[Custom300Madman]

Anyone used the old timers trick of flushing sludge from a 312 y block with either diesel or kerosene? trying to save some time and money, it runs right now and I've got it pulled from the car. I just don't like the sludge on inside of crank case and fuel pump galley. Got sludge? why yes I do! 

[gasman826]

I have heard of the method but never tried it.  There are also products on the market that claim to do the same thing or better.  Any of the products used will require the engine to run for an extended period of time.  If the engine is already removed, this will make the process much more difficult.  Most of these products are meant to be used as a regular maintenance item like every oil change and not a cure for complete neglect.  If you start dissolving sludge successfully, you may loosen chunks big enough to plug the oil pump screen.  Smaller particles would run through the oil pump, plug the oil filter to the point of opening the bypass and recirculating the crap through the bearings and acting like sandpaper.  If there is enough sludge to concern you, there are other things going on the that engine that need attention.  No sense in wasting a rare engine.  Heat and dirt are the worst enemies of your engine.  You have sever sludge...you have heat and dirt.  Save the money NOW and fix it.  PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER!!  And later means MORE.
Just ask someone who works on diesels.  There may be some carbon around the rings but the unburned diesel fuel that gets by the rings along with high quality engine oils helps keep the engine near sludge free.

[Custom300Madman]

I'm not sure what caused such sludge, changing oils over the years? I know my dad would just take it in to the gas station to have them do oil change, but yeah there's sludge and giant flakes. I have never let it run longer than eight minutes. the first few times of finally getting it to start there would be smoke and stuff burning around it, after vacuuming the leaves and dirt dobbers off the block it stopped. but you could definitely feel the heat.

I like the idea of dipping the block in a hot boil, but I don't like the idea of a possible crack somewhere in the head or surface deck etc. I've never installed or removed a crank shaft or that far lower into the engine. I'll have to dig up  the old blue book 1957 chitin and see if they go into details on how to overhaul the motor.

[62galxe]

I worked with a fella that used diesel. He bought a used car and the diesel trick worked. It broke all the sludge loose and plugged the oil pump screen resulting in a junk motor.

[Ford Blue blood]

What he said!  If you have the pan off take off the valley cover and clean all the stuff out of the top and the bottom using a good cleaner/degunker and steam.  Same goes for the heads and any other collection of sludge.  Be advised this will not open oil passages that are plugged nor remove sludge from the internals.  As gasman says....pay me now or pay me later! 

In my humble opinion you are wasting time and money trying to short cut the thing, do it right and do it once.

[Lou]

Years ago when 55, 56, and 57 Fords were just used cars I worked in a gas station and before we change the oil we would put in quart of kerosene and let the car run at a fast idle for 10 or 15 mins. Y-Blocks sludge up because they have a very poor crankcase ventilation system.

[bossguy]

Just curious, I don't own a Y block but has anyone ever developed an improved crankcase vent for these engines? My dad had a 57 Ford and I remember watching him scrape the sludge out of the rocker arm area, disassemble the rockers, take the plugs out of the shafts to clean them and still not get oil to the rockers. He finally resorted to the external oiler kit. Would todays improved oils eliminate that? Or a 1961 style PCV system. I understand the V12 Lincolns had the same problem. I had a customer restore a 48 Continental that had a Olds engine in it when he got it. He found a V12 and I found him some info on an improved PCV system for it. He responded, "I'm not touching it". I'm all for improving known problems but to each his own I guess. Thanks, Jack

[lowrider]

I worked with a fella that used diesel. He bought a used car and the diesel trick worked. It broke all the sludge loose and plugged the oil pump screen resulting in a junk motor.

Lost my coffee on that one!

[shopratwoody]

I had several used Fords with y blocks with that bogus oiler. I always took them off and cleaned the rockers
and such. always worked for me. IMO it was the oil we had mainly. I've rinsed engines with diesel after
blown head gaskets etc before reassambly. Never had a breather problem.

[gasman826]

2X woody.  The technical improvements in oil and fuel have increased engine life.  But also better rings, machine processes, ventilation systems, and fuel management systems.

[lowrider]

My old man worked at a Ford dealer most of his life and I remember him saying that back in 57 about 6 people there had bought new 57 vehicles including him. Only one guy didnt follow the recommendation of using non-detergent oil. His was the only one to survive. I can remember my Dad poring "motor honey" in to keep the blow-by fog down.
The same guy that didnt use the non-detergent oil also kept his car from rusting out. Dont know how he managed that.

[gasman826]

Blowby kept the bottom side coated so it wouldn't rust.

[Lou]

lowrider, are you sure you don't have that backwards? My father also had a new 57 Ford and the dealer always used 30W Detergent oil. Starting in 1956 American Motors Cars (Rambler) left the factory with detergent oil in the crankcase.
When my father bought his 58 interceptor there was a sticker right on the fill saying 10/30 only.