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4.6 being installed now

Started by RICH MUISE, 2012-12-03 22:34

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canadian_ranchero

the rear head temp maybe a little hotter than the front.it will not be a problem,the fan will just come on sooner

RICH MUISE

That may work out just right then..Ron Francis preferred not to use an external location for the connector because "they usually ran colder than the head itself causing the fan to come on at a higher temp." With that backside being hotter than the front itshould maybe even out, or, as you said not a problem. Thanks Gary.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

Got to a wiring bag that says plug connector into "cannister purge solenoid".
Heh? Is this something else I deleted I'm going to need? I tried to find it in the '95 Mark VIII manual but couldn't find a reference to it.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

No you don't need it, but....not having the solenoid in the line will throw a code.  It does not hurt or effect performance, just leaves that pesky code there. 

The canister is the charcoal filled thing that the gas tank vents into.  The solenoid applies engine vacuum to the top of it to clean the absorbed gas fumes from the canister upon engine start up.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

Thanks for that info, Bill. I guess that's one more thing on my list. I don't want that code there if it means the check engine light will be on all the time....might as well not have it. Sounds like plumbing involved though, not just the physical prescence  and the electrical hookup. I wonder if the computer would know it wasn't actually plumbed, seeing as it's a solenoid and not a sensor.
I'll have to chase one down in the salvage yard and see what I'm looking at....it's supose to be front right engine compartment....I found that out on AllData.

I got thru all the easy part of the Telorvek wiring harness, as far as plugging stuff in and running to the firewall entry point. I've got 5 or 6 bags that require stuff beyond that tieing into other systems/areas, and several I'm holding up on until I can talk to Ron Francis to clarify their instructions. I'll be working on those next, one bag at a time.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

canadian_ranchero

i have found on obd 1 [EEC IV] leaving the canister purge solenoid unhooked will not turn the check engine light on.the computer will just store a code in its memery.computers from california,may turn the light on.on one swap i did i just pluged the solenoid into the wiring,did not plumb it,no check engine light.remember to plug the hose on the engine

RICH MUISE

That's great news. I don't remember where it was mounted on the car, what it looked like, or where it was plumbed into the engine...I suspect I must have already plugged that hole, as I don't have any open ports anywhere (I hope). Sounds like I just need to get a solenoid to plug it into, or just leave the wiring off and see what happens.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

Ford Blue blood

The computer does not know if the canister gets purged or not....it just wants to know there is a solenoid hooked up.
Certfied Ford nut, Bill
2016 F150 XLT Sport
2016 Focus (wife's car)
2008 Shelby GT500
57 Ranchero
36 Chevy 351C/FMX/8"/M II

RICH MUISE

I sent two MAF sensors to the salvage yards last year also...lol. I'm gonna need a cooling fan connector as well. I found out the connector for those is no longer available (per RF) and the one I kept has the wires cut off too short.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#489
Question on the Mark Viii cooling fan.... Not sure I got correct info yesterday from Ron Francis. He said the cooling fan was a two speed fan. The connector for it has 3 pins, and I would need to figure out which was ground, and which was high and which was low speed. That's the info I don't think is correct.
I know the oem setup received a high voltage input from one source or a lower voltage input from a different source (the vcrm which is no longer being used in their harnesses).
My thoughts are it's not a two speed fan, but a variable speed fan controlled by the voltage. That difference I'm thinking means that there is not a specific low speed pin, it wouldn't matter which pin you used..what would matter is the voltage applied to the pin. In other words, if I'm applying the full 12 volts, I'm gonna get the high speed regardless of which of the two "power in" pins I use.
Am I thinking correctly here?
I used my rechargeable 12 volt drill motor battery to apply power to the different pins, and I could not see any noticable speed difference from one pin to the other.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

#490
Update..went to the salvage yard today. All the Mark VIII fans and connectors were removed except a '98..fan was gone but the connector was still there. To my pleasant surprise, the '98 oem connector only used two of the three wires coming out of the fan. Problem solved. Apparently the '98's eliminated the vcrm, or had another way of supplying variable voltage to the fan from a single source. The two wires being used, btw, are the two outer ones.
I looked at three different Marks there, and couldn't find the cannister for the system purge. I don't know what it looks like admittedly, but i couldn't find any cannister or solenoid with the connector configuration matching what I have to plug into it. Ron Francis said not to worry about it, it could just be deleted, confirming what you guys said.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

canadian_ranchero

rich, you are right about the fan being a variable voltage.the vcrm modulates the voltage between 6 and 12 volts

RICH MUISE

#492
Working on getting the wires pulled. I installed a really neat (and really cheap) 2" dia grommet into an oval shape. I got the computer mounting bracket painted and mounted, alot of the engine wires run into the cabin. As Bill suggested, I wrapped the cpu to telorvek harness with aluminum foil, and a bare wire to be grounded both ends. After the final wrap with aluminum tape, I additionally wrapped it with rubber splicing tape.
BTW...Bill, The engine harness wiring has 3 or 4 connectors with the wires shielded from Ron Francis . They use what appeared to be a heavy version of the aluminum foil tape with a plastic wrap over it. Also had a bare wire inside to ground. So,  they also do it the way you suggested. Thanks again for the tip.
1st pic is most of the engine harness, second pic is transmision wiring.
Tommorrow I'm going to get all those wires seperated and organized into groups according to where they mount on the panel. I'm not going to bundle, trim and attach any wires until I've got all the wires in the engine compartment tidy'd up.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

RICH MUISE

a couple more.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

gasman826

Since so many engine swaps are originating from EFI donor cars, how are you handling fuel pump safety switch?  GM's computer stops the fuel pump seconds after losing crank signal(engine stops turning).  I think Ford has an inertia switch that cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision.  Any ideas???