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Paint Color Codes

Started by ROKuberski, 2013-01-21 20:57

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ROKuberski

I am going to change the color of my car from Inca Gold/Colonial White to Flame Red/Colonial White.  I've seen cars on the internet that look great, but I am not sure that they are using the original Ford Flame Red Color. 

If someone has a picture of a car using the original Ford Flame Red, I would appreciate a picture.  Also, if you had the car painted and have the code for the paint, I would like that too.

Thanks,

Ric

JimNolan

Rich,
   I hope the picture goes through. Jim  PS. The Colonial White will fool you. It's really brown. Since they did away with the original paint and all that's left is what someone deems Colonial White and Flame Red you are at a small disadvantage when knowing what to get. I found the Flame Red was easily found but the Colonial White wasn't. What I did was match the white of my new door repoped door panels. It was special mixed to match that. And, it's about as close to original color that I've ever seen. Jim
If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went.

57AGIN

Ric & Jim:

I'm pretty sure the original "Colonial White" was a creamy white color.  At least that is the way it appeared on my 57's original colors that weren't repainted by the previous owner.  It sure wasn't an "Arctic White."  That Red/White Fairlane is spectacular, but I'm still partial to the Blues.  To each their own.

Bob
57 AGIN

57 Ford Kustom

On the links page, the 1957 Ford .com page lists the original colors our cars came in, and also the PPG color codes. Maybe they can be cross referenced to modern paint colors.You are right about the colonial white, My car looks white, white from a distance, but when you get close it is more of a cream color.
Thanks,
Tim :unitedstates:
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

ROKuberski

Gentlemen,

Thanks for the information.  I had found the old paint codes on the internet and will see if they are of any use to the painter.  When I bought fender skirts for my car, I went to a PPG dealer and had them mix paint for the Inca Gold, it was not even close to what the car is.  I saw the original paint under the stainless trim on the roof and the previous repaint looked very close to some of the original paint that was shielded from the sun.  This leads me to believe that the paint code translation may not be very accurate.

Another member sent me the formule used for the red on his car.  I will give that to my painter and see if it is information that he can use. 

From the pictures of the red/white car's I've seen, which I really like, I want to make sure that I get this right.

Rich

ROKuberski

I've started to sand the car and remove the trim.  I have now seen the original Colonial white, and it is indeed closer to a light brown than white.  My car already has a brighter white on it and that will not change, we will just match it. 

I am going to do as much as I can on this project, but that will be limited to taking off the trim and bumpers and some sanding on the body.  There are some very minor dings on the top of the front fenders and some chips along the side of the hood.  The hood was missing the rubber side bumpers when I got the car and that's how the edge got damaged. 

I have been talking to local painters and finally selected a guy.  There is an area near where I live that has engine shops, body shops, upholstery shops, all for the speed and custom guys.  I got prices ranging from "it's going to be expensive and I can't touch it for 6 months" down to $4500.  Considering what I am doing, it seems like a lot for a paint job.  He will correct minor flaws, paint and color sand and polish.  I will have to reinstall all the stuff I am removing from the car.  I have also got a few new parts, like the trim kits for the instrument panel and a new antenna.  My old one looks too sad to leave on a car wth a new paint job.  I hope to be back on the road by sometime in March.

Rich

57 Ford Kustom

Paint ain't cheap!!! I hope to get mine repainted next year, but cringe to find out the price. I hope all goes well with your project.
Tim :unitedstates:
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

57dohc

You guys might consider doing it yourself.  It really isn't as hard as it looks.  With all the high build primers and plenty of block sanding, you can do a good job.  The final finish is actually the easiest.  If you use a basecoat/clearcoat process, you will actually be sanding out minor dust etc. in the clearcoat.  A good buffing with the right compounds and you can really have a decent job.  This can be done in a normal garage(with good exhaust fans) or outside on a still day.  Of course, you would need a good air compressor and spray gun.  It still isn't cheap as it will probably cost $800 to $1,000 for materials by the time you are done.
Rich, I noticed you are from Arvada, colo.. I'm from Colorado Springs right down the road.  I would be willing to help you get started etc., but no block sanding! I've done too much of that! Al

geraldchainsaw

talk about expensive paint,  talking to (good for anchor only) guy,  hes getting a gal of red,  says its going to cost $800,  i know red is expensive,  but wow

57redwhitered

Back in the day I was painting cars for $100. to $150. labor and material included and there was a shop up the street that was doing them for $39.95.  Maybe they were the good old days.
1957 Skyliner

57 Ford Kustom

Dad always did his own paint, but that was one thing I never paid attention to :021:. I was to busy chasing women, and then chasing kids!
Tim :unitedstates:
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

4thgen57

^^^ Tell me about it. Chasing women and had my first son at 18. Talk about giving up your cars. But she knows the 57 will be here long after her!

Frankenstein57

My friends custom 300 is kind of in body shop jail, he tends to wear out his welcome and complains alot. So the job went from being a good deed among friends, to this is what it takes to keep the lights and heat on. The car is pretty much stalled, with a big question mark as far as $$$$$ owed. I traded labor on my 58 ranchero, did most of the block sanding, so the whole deal cost me about $800. I think the 57 will cost me a bit more though. I've read in the street rodder articles that the new water borne paint process is a bit more forgiving. Has anyone had experience with it?   Mark

ROKuberski

Quote from: 57dohc on 2013-01-31 10:38
You guys might consider doing it yourself.  It really isn't as hard as it looks.  With all the high build primers and plenty of block sanding, you can do a good job.  The final finish is actually the easiest.  If you use a basecoat/clearcoat process, you will actually be sanding out minor dust etc. in the clearcoat.  A good buffing with the right compounds and you can really have a decent job.  This can be done in a normal garage(with good exhaust fans) or outside on a still day.  Of course, you would need a good air compressor and spray gun.  It still isn't cheap as it will probably cost $800 to $1,000 for materials by the time you are done.
Rich, I noticed you are from Arvada, colo.. I'm from Colorado Springs right down the road.  I would be willing to help you get started etc., but no block sanding! I've done too much of that! Al

I appreciate the offer of assistance, but will pass.  I am doing quite a bit of the prep work, but the shop will repair some minor flaws and correct some work done by a previous restorer too.  I know from a '37 Chevy that I did a total restoration on that this kind of work is not what I am good at.  My work improves, but it truly is a lot of work to prep a car properly. All I want is perfection at a budget price.  Is that too much to ask?

Rich

ROKuberski

Quote from: JimNolan on 2013-01-21 23:18
Rich,
   I hope the picture goes through. Jim  PS. The Colonial White will fool you. It's really brown. Since they did away with the original paint and all that's left is what someone deems Colonial White and Flame Red you are at a small disadvantage when knowing what to get. I found the Flame Red was easily found but the Colonial White wasn't. What I did was match the white of my new door repoped door panels. It was special mixed to match that. And, it's about as close to original color that I've ever seen. Jim

Jim,

I did get the paint code you sent to me.  I took the car to the painter yesterday and while there, he called his supplier.  They can use the information you supplied.  It's a Sherwin Williams number and they have it.  When I quizzed them about the formule, he read it off and it was almost a dead match.  It was off a very small amount on each of the components.  They call it Phoenix Red.  As to the white, I am matching the white that is already on the car.  It is much brighter than the original white. 

I should have the car back in a couple of weeks.  I did a lot of the prep work and that will save me some $$$$$.  I'm also having them weld the screw holes where a previous owner had mounted the mirrors on the door.  You could not open the wing windows at all.  I have to repair a rusted out nut on the driver's side door latch and the one thing that I always hated the most.  As you drive the car and look down that long fender, I could see minor ripples in the fender.  Turns out that these low spots are less than 1/32", but you sure can see them.  Most of this was in a prior poor paint job.  I have the instrument panel out so that can be painted too.  I bought the new trim from Concours Part so that ought to look pretty spiffy now. 

I hope to have it all back together and on the road before the end of March.

I'll post a picture when completed.

Rich