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Started by Frankenstein57, 2013-02-06 19:21

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Frankenstein57

Saturday about 4 am I'm heading up to Randy Conners  place to pickup a ranchero, going up with my brother and his rollback. Randy has quite a collection of 57 & 58 fords. Many from different parts of the country. He has part's cars as well, if you need something and can't find it, send me a pm with your contact info and what you are looking for , and I'll pass it along. I'll get some pics of my deal, and post next week.  Mark :006:

Ecode70D

Mark
    I having computer problems and can't send or receive email or PMs.  I did call Randy .  He said that he will be looking for a custom steering wheel for me.
Please take a picture of it for me if he has one and tell him that I can only be reached by phone or on this forum until I get this thing fixed.
    Drive carefully , have a safe trip and thanks a lot Jay  Ecode70D.  .

Frankenstein57

No problem Jay, I'm sure he has one or two.

Frankenstein57

Got back from Randy's place in the Wisconsin Northwoods, pretty much a 24 hour adventure for us. Went up 4 am Saturday, arrived a bit late due to a fuel issue with my brothers International diesel. Visited with Randy for about 3-3 1/2 hours. Nice collection of e code stuff, There was two customs, two 500's,two t-birds, all in the bldg with two 5.0 shelbys, and a fine 66 fairlane 427 2-4bbl car. Outside is a collection of projects in waiting, a few e-code rancheros and 300's.I did see the elusive" package tray" Or rear seat delete panel. In another building is an ex squad car, very clean. We walked out to the parts cars, many 57 & 58's all shapes and sizes. I purchased a complete quarter panel from a 2 door wagon, as the ranchero I picked up needs quarter panel work. All in all I'm pleased with the car I bought, the sub floors are very good, it has a good front clip with Frenched headlights,box area is solid, cowl and roof rails are solid, hinge pockets are solid. I need to repair the toe board area of the floors, as usual, and a little bit in the backseat foot wells. I'm sorry to say my camera took a dive while I was there, don't have any pictures other than these.

sprink88

Very nice. Where is Randy located in Wisconsin?
~Chris

Frankenstein57

way up in the North west corner south of Ashland, near to Cable home of the Birkebiner ski race.  :tree: :tree: :rudolf: :rudolf: :help1: We drove over 750 miles , went home by way of Eagle River to see my nephews place. Good weather ,upper 20's, clear roads.

Ecode70D

Mark
     That's a real nice looking rust free quarter panel.  Are you going to weld it on, or use that new panel adhesive?   The good thing about the panel adhesive is that the the metal does not get warped .  That stuff really works.
Jay

suede57ford

Wow, that is a really nice panel.  I wish i could find one like that for my delivery, as the previous owner really made a mess of it. 

Randy has a bunch of nice stuff and is super talented.  His restorations look great.

If anyone needs info on how to use the Panel Bond Adhesive or any seam sealers, they can contact me.   I am the 3M rep for West Texas/Eastern New Mexico.   
57 2dr Sedan, Black,VR57 Supercharged Y-block
57 T-bird, 460 C6
57 Ranchwagon, 5.0 AOD
57 Ranchero, VR57 Supercharged
57 Courier Delivery, 460 C6
57 2dr Sedan, Red/White
69 Mach1 428 R-Code
69 Talladega 428
69 Bronco 5.0
70 Torino Cobra SCJ 4spd,4:30 Drag Pak
34 Ford P.U. 427 Ford, 2-4s
69 Boss 429

sprink88

I think Randy is closer to me Mark. But nice looking car and nice panel. I know a fireman in Waukesha. My wife's cousin
~Chris

Frankenstein57

I would be interested in hearing about the panel adhesives, I would guess we still tack weld them in place? I had the panel in the shop Sunday, the inner workings of the area on each side of the wheel well are different between the ranchero and the wagon. Also he top lip by the bed rail changes with the wagon post. Don't know if I should try to hang the entire quarter, or seam it under the side trim strip. I'm going to take it slow & low, try to avoid mistakes. The inside of the panel is just as nice, wheel well and inner panels are good. Jay, the steering wheels he showed me were cracked worse than mine, looked at a few in the cars in the woods also, they are pretty rough. Mark

Ecode70D

   Mark  Give it a lot of thought and ask advice from the guys on the forum. I would not try to hang the entire panel.  You might give some thought to seaming it under the side trim.  This will also involve cutting it and stepping the original panel. You will also have to carefully remove the inner fender panel by drilling out the spot welds.  You can use pieces from the donor inner panel to repair your original inner panels.  Suede 57 Ford stated that he is a rep. for that product is willing to give you advice on prepping and applying it. He is also in a position to tell us how good the product really is.  All  you have to do is ask him.  I'm told that  when you properly bond two pieces of sheet metal together, if you clamp it and try to pull it apart,  the sheet metal will rip before the bond breaks. I'm also told that airplane wings and the complete suspension in the newer GT 40 are also bonded together. I'm hoping that some of the guys will chime in on how they did their panels so that you can get some more ideas.
   When you get a chance, please post a picture of your wheel and let me know what you want for it.  I still can't  send or receive email or PMs.  I need a 10 year old kid to show me how to fix my computer. Jay
   

Zapato

#11
years ago ''my boy'' sold Kent products to body shops and a couple oems in this area. he wanted  some way to demonstrate the product strength. not sure if the idea was his or not but the following is what we did. we cut some 3/16th plate into 6''x6'' squares and cut matching pieces of 18 gauge sheetmetal. the plates got a roughly 4''x4'' window cut into them. then he bonded pieces with his product and a couple others and then they sat for 24 hours in my garage. the next day we clamped them in a vise and proceeded to hammer away thru the cut out window with a 16 oz ball peen hammer and we indeed manage to rip the sheetmetal on all of them without any bonding failure.

the other test he did was to clue small strips of metal unto a larger piece and following each manufacturers instructions for set up time allowed them to sit flat on the workbench then stood it up on edge, this took a few days to complete. what we learned was that some product did creep off location. not much but enough that it could cause some problems. I did one headlight ring on my 51 ford with his product of course it had to be held in place (gravity sucks at times) and it was a lot faster and easier than wire feeding the other side. In this case a bit of duct tape held it overnight. now if I was going to had a large panel think the best approach would be to flange patch panel line it up good and either use clecos or pop rivets to hold it while the adhesive has time to setup.

Someone called it a new product not sure how long its been around but its far from new. my daughters' vw rabbit front fenders were bonded not welded on.

biggest issue using the stuff is the cost of the ''caulking gun'' needed to apply the adhesive. They're not cheap and unless things have changed there is no commonality between manufacturers. in other words my Kent gun wont work with Fusar or others.

am sure that suede57 can enlighten us further with some pros and cons, I personally wouldn't hesitate to use it. for me the pros outweigh the cons. faster,cleaner,safer, no warpage issues or fire concerns.

my 2 cents........... :deadhorse:

Zap- :unitedstates:
Zapato

Cruise low and slow.......Nam class of '72

Ecode70D

Zap
   That was a real good explanation for the strength of the product.
   Some years ago I was attaching a 58 quarter from a donor car. It was a long panel and there was no one was around to help me hold it in place.
   I cut the old one off, stepped it and held the replacement on temporally with sheet metal screws.   Then I took a pencil and marked the panels where the screw holes were,applied the product, and started setting the screws back in the same holes.  Before  the product was just about all set up I backed the screws off just a little to break the seal on them. When it was all dried, I just took the screws out and filled the screw holes with some of the product.  The panel is nice and straight and I still see that car at car cruises many years later.
    That was my first time bonding a panel and did several after that.
    I'm the guy that mistakenly referred to it as new.  I probably should have said newer than welding.
    Jay Ecode70D   

hiball3985

I refer to these products as new also, I guess I'll always be old school  :003:. I have never used them myself but the first application that I saw a number of years ago almost gave me a heart attack. Cheby/GMC trucks have been gluing their door hinges to the frame for years. I always thought that must be a PITA when you need to change them, but I guess it can be done. I prefer bolts myself..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

gasman826

You can heat the adhesive to release it.   I bought my gun on eBay.  I bought the gun for small tube 3M but other brands fit...SEM.  I glued my roof on and fender extensions on both ends.  I glued the lower seam of the outer rockers to the inner rockers.  Great stuff.  No heat warp.  NO RUST IN THE SEAMS!!!  Seams are sealed.  Exposed adhesive needs a coat of ALL Metal...paint does not bond well.  First impression was that it is expensive.  Once I used it and seen the quality of the seam...not so expensive.  A partial tube will store for a long time.  That's why you get extra nozzles.  The only down side is you need a lot of clamps.