Sneak peak...

[Ford Blue blood]

and different venting and drying technique.  Fans to move the air around evenly etc. 

Street Rodder did an article on the water base paint before and during the build of their "Rod Tour" 40 Ford.  I'm sticking with the urethanes for the forseable future, single stage for solids and base/clear for the metalics and pearls.

[JPotter57]

Not interested in water based paints at all.  From everything I have seen of them, they are too chalky and do not last long enough in the harsh sun we have here in South Mississippi.  As long as I can get real paint, I'm not using watercolors...

[glen b henderson]

What brand of paint are you using James, I noticed that you were ordering it?

[JPotter57]

Glen, I usually use the Kirkers brand from Smart Shoppersinc.com, but this time, I just needed a quart, and they have a limited numbre of base colors in quarts, so I ordered it from Summit.   The urethane that Summit Racing sells is Kirkers with a Summit label on it, so its all the same stuff.  It is really good paint, gets a bad rap from the body shop guys that think that 10000 is an acceptable price to paint your car.  I dont think so, not with 8 kids to take care of, lol.  OI buy from either Smart Shoppers or Summit, and have never been disappointed.   Dad has Kirker urethane on his Falcon convertable, and will have it on his `57 Fairlane soon.   He is painting it Raven black with black and maroon interior.  The seats already are done, look good.  He is about 50% done with the body work, lots of blocking left to go for him.  Dont let anybody tell you this paint is crap, because for the most part, they've like;y never tried it.  We have, and it goes on nice, flows out well, and shines like a new penny.  Plus, it is very affordable.  I bought two gallons of the competition yellow (70 Boss 302 Grabber yellow)  plus activator, and it was less than $225 shipped to my door.  I love the stuff.  Give it a try.  They have the hot rod black urethane too, Glen, flat finish.

[Frankenstein57]

Have you used any of their high build urethane primers? That stuff is outrageous from the name paint brands. It would be nice to have an alternative.  Mark

[glen b henderson]

Now that sounds like a great deal James! I'll check it out. I have been using PPG shopline primer and like it, but it is around $150 a gal with the activator.

[JPotter57]

That is the primer I used too.  I found that Smart Shoppers and Summit have the urethane primer too.  And its a lot less than shopline, about 85 per gallo. And 20 for the activator.

[Ecode70D]

/quote]

Glen... Can I get that primer I white?  How long will a portion keep after it is activated?
Thanks Jay

[RICH MUISE]

Jay...I may be wrong, but I believe paints/primers can only be reduced without affecting shelf life...anything with an activator/catalyst will have a short window (hours) depending on the product. The window of time is usually specified on the product sheets and usually available on-line from the distributors/manufacturers

[Ecode70D]

Thanks Rich
     My progress is so slow that I may have to primer one or two panels at a time.  I'm glad that all of my major body work and mechanical work is all done . Block sanding never ends. I would like to get the car registered and start driving it this summer even if it is in just primer.  I'm leaning more toward these new primers because I understand that they are not porous like the old stuff.
Jay   

[JPotter57]

Jay, anything urethane has about a 2 hour pot life once you ad d the activator.  The only primers you can reduce and keep is lacquer based primers.  Even the Enamel type primers will gel after a while once mixed.  Still, if you have everything ready to go, you wont have much waste, if any.

[Ecode70D]

James
     Actually the only type of primer I have ever used is lacquer and have never had a problem with it.  Looks like it is time to start thinking about the new stuff if I want to drive the car for a while before I paint it.  I realize that the water will eventually go through the lacquer primer and the panels will start to rust. It is my understanding that the new primers will seal/protect the body.  This is going to be a whole new education for me.
     I suppose the next thing is that I'll have to get some sort of a new mask also.  Any recommendations?   Jay     

[glen b henderson]

Jay, I am fairly sure that the PPG shopline is available in white, but I have never used it. I always use black epoxy for the base and then gray highbuild for follow on coats. As stated above once you mix, you have to use it. I pick up some mixing cups and just mix what I think I will need. It is a good idea too have a few small parts ready just in case you have some left over, it want take long to hang and spray them with the leftover primer.

[Ford Blue blood]

You can extend the pot life some by putting the gun or pot in the refrigerator.  I have had it mixed and ready to shoot for up to four hours after I caused a delay by being dumb!  Just let it warm up for 15 minutes defore spraying.  Nothing bad if it don't warm a little, just a scoash thicker.....

[Ecode70D]

[quote author=Ford Blue blood  You can extend the pot life some by putting the gun or pot in the refrigerator.  I have had it mixed and ready to shoot for up to four hours after I caused a delay by being dumb!  Just let it warm up for 15 minutes defore spraying.  Nothing bad if it don't warm a little, just a scoash thicker.....
[/quote]

/quote]


Bill..That's exactly the reason that I keep a refrigerator in the shop for paints and the spray gun.. 

Glen  That's smart advice  having some extra pieces to use up the mixed primer.

Now that I'm about to get into this new stuff,  I need to know if there is a special resperator that you use for this modern paint.   A filter number would help. Jay