News:

Check out the newsletters posted at our main club site:  http://57fordsforever.com

Main Menu

Engine knock

Started by 57 Ford Kustom, 2013-06-08 17:41

Previous topic - Next topic

57 Ford Kustom

Thanks Ecode for the input. I didn't know how much of a pain lining up the trans would be. Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

Tom S

Quote from: 57 Ford Kustom on 2013-07-10 16:18I got the heads back, and the guy at the machine shop told me how to figure out if my lower end needs a rebuild.
Did he tell you some trick way to do it without pulling the bottom end?  If so I'd like to hear the details.
I agree with Ecode about pulling the engine sans trans.  It's usually pretty easy to get the engine lined up with the trans when putting it back in.
Bummer that you gotta rebuild it anyway.

Ecode Jay, did you get my reply to your PM about the arm rests?

hiball3985

I would like to know what he told you also. The only thing I can think of is a ridge on the top of the cylinder wall and some of that can just be carbon build up..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

57 Ford Kustom

Guys, he told me to turn the crank buy hand using a breaker bar, then when each cylinder is at TDC as it is on the return stroke listen to see if there is a noise, if it seems to be, put your hand one the piston and see if you can feel that hesitation in the cylinder. It worked, cylinders 1,2,and 4 did the same thing, I' ll tell you for sure when I pull it! Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

Ecode70D

Quote from: Tom S on 2013-07-12 07:18
Ecode Jay, did you get my reply to your PM about the arm rests?

Tom
   No I did not get your reply about the arm rests.
Jay

hiball3985

Quote from: 57 Ford Kustom on 2013-07-13 06:11
Guys, he told me to turn the crank buy hand using a breaker bar, then when each cylinder is at TDC as it is on the return stroke listen to see if there is a noise, if it seems to be, put your hand one the piston and see if you can feel that hesitation in the cylinder. It worked, cylinders 1,2,and 4 did the same thing, I' ll tell you for sure when I pull it! Tim
If you actually hear a noise that sounds like a major wrist pin or bearing problem. Good you caught it before wasting the time and money putting the new heads on and having to tear it down again.
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

Tom S

Quote from: Ecode70D on 2013-07-13 17:44Tom
No I did not get your reply about the arm rest
WTF? Ok, sent again.  Slightly modified so you might better understand about posting pix.   

57 Ford Kustom

Should I have the block sent to the shop to have it the cylinders polished or can I do it myself? What if anything should I do to the crank? Do I replace all my pistons? I just don't know how much or how little needs to be done! Thanks, Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

Tom S

Polished?  No.  Honed.  Or bored & honed if needed.  Of course if ya gotta get it bored you will need new pistons for sure.
I doubt that you will know what you need to do until you tear it down & start checking things.

57 Ford Kustom

Like I said in an earlier post, I finally got the engine pulled! It seems that there is play in all the rod bearings, some more than others. My question is this, other than having the bores honed what needs to be done to the crank if anything? Also, what other than bearings and a new main seal needs to be replaced? How do I know if the pistons and rods are still good? I'm going to replace the rings, but don't know anything more. Thanks, Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

57 Ford Kustom

I guess I answered my own question on the crank, the rod bearings were so shot, crank will have to be turned. Another question, what about wrist pin replacement? They seem fine, but rather only do this once! Thanks, Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

hiball3985

Guessing is difficult, you really need to have the bores measured for taper and out of round before you can decide if just honing will do it. If it needs to be bored you will need new pistons so that takes care of the wrist pins. If the bearings were that bad I'm think its time for a complete rebuild of the engine. Bearing failure is usually from a lack of lubrication which could mean the cam bearings are toast also. Doing half right the first time will leave you mad at yourself in the future when you have to redo it..
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

rmk57

Normally wrist pins aren't replaced. The engine gets bored oversize and new pistons and wrist pins are installed with new rings of coarse. And while your machine shop is at it they'll want to resize the connecting rods to. I would have your rebuilder check your block out to see if it needs boring or not. If it does need rebuilding consider buying a whole "kit", pistons, rings, bearings, etc......

Randy
Randy

1957 Ford Custom
1970 Boss 429

57 Ford Kustom

The cam bearings are fine, although I will replace them anyway. I will do the rebuild myself. I am bringing my block to a shop for the honing and inspection. Tim
aka:Bluedot Kid 2
To fast to live, to young to die.

gasman826

Most shops won't work on a dirty block.  Cleaning and cooking the block will ruin and require the removal on the cam bearings.  Cooking the block will remove lime and rust deposits from the water jackets for better cooling and sludge deposits for better oil circulation.