Brake And Fuel Lines

[petew]

Does any one know who makes a brake and fuel line kit for a 57 Country Sedan Wagon. I have tried Classic, Inline and Right Stuff which are the major line suppliers that I am aware of with no luck. Also looked at Obsolete, Concours , Jerrys and Dearborn .
Right stuff offers kits for several 57 models but not the wagons. If I can't find a kit for my model then perhaps there is another model that is close . I don't mind extending the main lines just want things to look correct in the engine compartment.

Pete

[RICH MUISE]

Your wagon is built on the shorter wheelbase platform...same as the Customs. I got my brake line kit from inline years ago. If you are running stock brakes, I can't imagine ordering a Custom brake line kit would be a problem..don't know positively, but what could be different? If you've changed to discs, you're probably on your own. The new Nicopp brakes line tubing is easy to work with. A little on the expensive side comparing to other brake line material, but well worth it. Cheap flaring tool does the job easily.
The fuel line is a different matter though, as your tank is different from the Custom sedans. I'll probably be finding out before too long if the NiCopp is available in fuel line size as my new engine will require a return line as well.

[ROKuberski]

I was not familiar with this stuff, but here is a source in two sizes and they note it is also for fuel lines.

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-NiCopp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1

Rich

[petew]

Original non power drum brakes all around. I'll have to check the inline catalog for the custom line kit. I've got the tools to make my own but want the original appearing stuff if I can get it.
The original fuel line is caked in undercoat. If the inner fenders were any indication I will most likely find a pristine fuel line under the tar.

[62galxe]

This is who I bought tubing and fittings from.
http://store.fedhillusa.com/

[RICH MUISE]

Jegs is a bit cheaper on the fuel lines, and I in fact had found a cheaper source on EBAY. I wasn't sure of their quality, so I went with Jegs. As it turned out, the Jegs line was packaged/same brand  the same as the ebay seller.
With the Nicopp tubing, a 25 dollar flaring tool will do the job great. Bends easily with fingers and inexpensive bending tools, so you can form it as you go.
If some of the wagon owner members can verify the brake lines are the same as the Custom however, Inline should be able to supply the kit.

[BWhitmore]

I thought the wagon chassis was the same as the Ranchero which has a different rear crossmember and if I remember correctly slightly different brake tubing for the rear brakes?  From memory only, which is not the best.  I agree about the copper nickel brake tubing - very easy to work with and very durable.

[petew]

  Thanks for all the good info guys. I think what I will do is order the brake line kit from Inline and make up new fuel line using 5/16 Cunifer tube from Fedhill as 62 galxe suggested. It looks to be the same product as the NiCopp, a little pricey but it should be easier to work with than regular 5/16 tube.
I think I will also run the fuel line down the inside of the rail instead of trying to go down the outside and over the top. There is plenty of room on the inside and no issue with exhaust clearance so why not.

[ROKuberski]

An update on a source for these lines.  Both CARQUEST and Advanced Auto Parts stock precut lengths.  40" x 3/16" was $10.49 at Advanced.  This has the standard US threaded connectors on it.

Rich

[Ford Blue blood]

  I think I will also run the fuel line down the inside of the rail instead of trying to go down the outside and over the top. There is plenty of room on the inside and no issue with exhaust clearance so why not.

Not sure I would do that.  The factory guys who make a butt load of money to design and engineer these cars run/ran both the fuel and brake lines down the outside of the frame rails.  Not quite sure why but given they still do it today there has to be a darn good reason.  Safety is the first thing that comes to mind, drive train failures, exhaust system failures and fuel line failures in close proxsimity to hot exhaust systems....just a thought.

[ROKuberski]

I've done some research on these lines and they are all certified for brake use.  In fact, they are mostly used in the luxury cars.  I am not intending to replace all the lines, just to split the system front/rear.  I looked at how I will have to route the new lines and it won't be too hard to do. 

The original line runs down to a splitter block with one line going to the rear and another to the front.  I will run the rear half of the new master cylinder to the first splitter block and plug the port that takes fluid to the front brakes.  Then run the front half of the new master cylinder to the block that was fed by main splitter block.  It all looks pretty simple.  I want to use the copper nickel lines because they are supposed to be very easy to bend, and these new lines will require lots of bends.

Rich

[CableguyJJS3]

Here's my thread with lots of pics from my brake adventures. Don't hesitate or think twice on the copper nickel line. I used it for all the hard line in my system and used stainless braided in the rest and it functions beautifully. And that copper nickel line is hands down the best stuff I have ever put my hands on for brake lines. I didn't do anything with my fuel lines, but I imagine it would work just as good and bend just as easy.

http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=4378.0

[ROKuberski]

I did look at your nice set of pictures.  There is one issue that I am working now.  I can't use the original fittings from the master cylinder to reinstall the brake light pressure switch.  Do you have your switch on the proportioning valve?  It's hard to see in the picture.  Monday I'm going to see if I can find a tee or something else that will work for me.  I was thinking a tee with a male out and female down in the 3/16" brake pipe fitting size and a 1/8" NPT opposite of the male out would work, but I would not be able to control where the female fitting would end up pointing when the male fitting was tight in the master cylinder.   

Any suggestions?

Rich

[CableguyJJS3]

I'm guessing your reusing your original master cylinder?? I couldn't guess how to get a tee to land in the right spot in that instance, that'd be tricky. My brake light switch is in the prop valve yes. But as I made note of in another thread, the switch is hydraulically activated, and the 4 wheel discs I installed stop so well, it wasn't building enough fluid pressure to trip the switch and kick on the brake lights. I ended up having to wire in a mechanical switch directly onto the brake pedal arm under the dash to kick on the brake lights. I used a switch from my 68 Mustang, worked ok, needed some fine tuning but nothing major, and it worked quite well. See the link below for the prop valve I used. Pricey, but it covered all the bases and worked very well, switch issues aside.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3910/overview/

[ROKuberski]

No, I'm not reusing the old master cylinder.  This is what I bought.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221290160453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I'm going shopping today for a tee.  Although I would like the new brake line to go down from the bottom of the tee, I think I can put the hydraulic switch on the side of the tee and use the end opposite of the male end for the new connection for the brake pipe.  It won't matter what the orientation is of the pressure switch.

Hopefully, I can find something that will work.  If not, then I will install a mechanical switch for the brake lights.

Rich