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Started by RICH MUISE, 2013-11-20 08:11

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RICH MUISE

That car found the right person to get it back where it should be, and that person apparently found the right people to do it. Don't expect perfection on the gaps, they were not made to be perfect............never left the factories with perfect gaps.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

mustang6984

Joe...There is a story (short version here) about Carroll Shelby looking at a line of his cars in Vegas at a show. As he reached the end of the line he looked back at the perfect cars and said that he didn't "know who built those cars, but it wasn't me!"
Like rich said...none of our cars left the assembly line perfect. WE make them perfect!

But yea...the car has the right person to make it so!

And my wife...calls it having Murphy for a neighbor!
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

djfordmanjack

Joe, not sure if my opinion counts, BUT PLEASE LEAVE ALL OF THAT ALONE.

I have owned 3x 57 Fords so far, and something these cars are not especially known for, is build quality, gaps or rigidity. I don't want to talk any bad things about them, but everybody who has worked on them, knows that. it is the same with all other makes and models from that era. Look at those stick welds on the frame and you will see they could not come up with something better than 1/2" or so. They used tons of lead in the factory, wooden blocks and rubber mallets to align the doors and also the engine torque twists the chassis along with aging rubber body mounts and suspension parts. The Z shaped dogleg area doesn't help a bit to keep everything aligned. Hey, they used sheetmetal screws to fasten the upper fender corner....it hurts to talk like that about our beloved Fifty Sevens, but it is the truth. Don't worry about a little off gap. Nobody will see that when you drive by with a big smile in your face. these cars were built to be driven and look pretty and fast doing that! and they ARE ! Enjoy ! :003:

djfordmanjack

btw, check your center radiator core rubber mount. sits in the middle under the core support. It is basically what holds EVERYTHING on the body frontend in line. there also is a leave spring in that assembly. Maybe it's sagged or broken. Very important before doing any further alignment work !

CobraJoe

The little leaf spring and mount are good.
The hood was always chipping the paint on the corners of the fenders and was starting to rust; if I were to square it up, it would hit the drivers side fender.

Look at the gaps on these two pics, you can almost see the bottom edge of the drivers fender turning out where it meet the rocker panel and the larger gap vs the tight gap on the passenger side.



When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

CobraJoe

Here is a picture of the hood/fender gap; it was wider in the back and rubbing in the front, you can see where it is touched up on the inside edge of the fender.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

mustang6984

When we modified my frame we were actually positive that we had screwed up our tape work. Mine was actually within a 1/8 0f an inch of being square!!!
The white one, the old race car...is WAY out of alignment. If I remember correctly it was like 1 1/2 inches out...but then it did run a 1/4 mile for a few years before returning to the street. And it was in an accident as well. That frame will be going to a shop for some chiropractic work before going back together.
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

CobraJoe

We checked and double checked; and with the alignment pins on the frame, it is straight/square except for the crossmember under the radiator support. It shouldn't take much to bring it back. I should have took a picture of the pins all the way down the chassis, it was pretty obvious.
DJ, thank you for the concern and I appreciate your input.
  I just finished a chassis off restoration with a friend on his '57 Bel Air and I am familiar with the body gaps on these early cars as well as the gas welds on the frames However, I think I should be able to have a hood that closes without rubbing and a door that doesn't rub on the fender. Normally, I should be able to get it functional through adjustments and or shims, in this case I couldn't.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

djfordmanjack

#2753
Joe, I am absolutely sure that you and your friend wiht the body/alignment shop will be able to make it better than new. No doubt about that.
Doing body work and alignment myself, I just wanted to confirm, how easy it is for things to get messed up. I see your drivers door is pushed to the rear. Remember the drivers door is the one body part that gets opened and worked the most of all. You probably can't get it much further to the front as ist would start rubbing on the upper chrome windshield post. It is truly possible that a little fender bender might have offset things.
In my theory all comes together. Lot of times a car is driven with only driver in seat. now that might be 200 pds on one side! Has anybody else here experienced how old (LHD) cars have always weaker springs on the drivers side? it also makes the left front body mounts sag more than others.
Then count the engine torque. it additionally wants to twist the drivers A pillar down. Then take a slight offset bump on the left frame horn and it makes the a post go even further down, shifting the upper A post, dogleg and roof corner with it. down and to the rear. thats the reason the door and fender gap is affected so much.
in my opinon, shimming the body mounts on the 2 foremost left mounts will cure your problem. prabably about 1/16- 1/8th.
again this is just my theory.  :001:

CobraJoe

Well, we pulled it today and I must say I'm very happy, but it didn't start that way.
When we pulled the bumper, you could clearly see the bumper bracket had been bent to realign the bumper. They had also hammered the valance somewhat straight under the bumper where it couldn't be seen, but didn't do any body work to it. None of this was noticeable under the car with the old thick undercoating.
Once we pulled it, the hood was able to be squared up, which makes me very happy. It also gave me a better gap on the passenger side door/fender and on the drivers side too. Now, I can adjust the bottom of the fender to line it up better.
Here are the pics after the pull:




When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

mustang6984

Looks nice and tight now...like a lady should!   :003: (yea yea...I know...)  :006:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

CobraJoe

Thanks Hugh.

Seeing that I'm going to fix my valance now, I might as well paint it the right color. Does anybody have a good paint code for the Silver Argent?
Thanks

Joe
When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

mustang6984

Quote from: CobraJoe on 2020-05-29 15:58
Thanks Hugh.

Seeing that I'm going to fix my valance now, I might as well paint it the right color. Does anybody have a good paint code for the Silver Argent?
Thanks
Joe

This is what I was able to find for '57. Note...none refer to a Silver Argent...

https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_swatch_ford_usa_1957
*************
http://jerrysclassiccars.com/1957_ford_paint_codes.html
*************
Except this one...
https://www.dearbornclassics.com/argent-spray-paint.html
It comes in a 12oz spray can.

Hope one works... :006:
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker

CobraJoe

Thanks Hugh, same thing I keep finding, only exterior color codes, no exterior trim codes.
I too, came up with the Motorcraft spray paint, I believe that Silver Argent is for engine accessories.

When I was fourteen years old, I was amazed at how unintelligent my father was. By the time I turned twenty-one, I was astounded at how much he had learned in the last seven years!

'96 Bronco,
'39 Ford Coupe,
'57 Fairlane,
'68 Torino GT
'15 F150,
'17 Escape,

mustang6984

I will look around some more...might be a hard find...
Nothing is impossible...
The word it's self says I'M POSSIBLE  (Audrey Hepburn)
2 '57 Ford Couriers AND '57 Fairlane
3 Mustangs, '69 fastback-'84 SVO-'88 Saleen Convertible
'49 Ford P/U
'50 Dodge P/U
'82 RX-7
'65 Chrysler New Yorker