Sway bar Kit

[hiball3985]

Ran into another problem yesterday while out driving. Stopped at a store and the bar hit one of those wheel stops in the parking lot. Relocating it will be my first priority. Ideally I would have new front springs made with a higher rating and a little taller..

[LAUDY57]

Watching Rob's video of him entering his driveway I'm surprised he doesn't hit the curb.

[hiball3985]

Watching Rob's video of him entering his driveway I'm surprised he doesn't hit the curb.

I could probably clear that driveway too, but anything a little steeper would be a problem.

[hiball3985]

A little improvement today after my morning ride. I was able to move the sway bar up about
1-1/2". I removed the two front mounting plate bolts, loosened the rear ones just a little and moved the front of the bracket and bar up pivoting on the rear bolts, drilled two new holes and put the bolts back in, took about 30 mins. 

[hiball3985]

Rear bar went on yesterday. The two bolts supplied in the kit to attach the frame brackets were 5" long, don't know why, I replaced them with 3 1/2" and also added a weld. Haven't had it on the road yet, I just got the drive shaft back from the shop and will change the trans tail shaft bushing before I install it.

[LAUDY57]

Jim, you probably mounted the bar arms going forward, right? That seems to be where the width of the bar works out. I've just been looking at this and considering pointing the arms back and making a new brackets because the shocks and exhaust pipes look like not enough space at the front on mine.

[hiball3985]

Jim, you probably mounted the bar arms going forward, right? That seems to be where the width of the bar works out. I've just been looking at this and considering pointing the arms back and making a new brackets because the shocks and exhaust pipes look like not enough space at the front on mine.

Lorne, I did mount it forward. I looked at mounting it to the rear but I didn't like the way it lined up. It cleared the shocks and dual exhaust without a problem. I had to remove the brake lines from the clips that hold them to the axle to get the U bolts on, I'll make a change to that when I make new lines in the future. 

[LAUDY57]

Thanks Jim, that's what I like about this site- there's usually someone to ask before banging and scraping paint! (it's still clean underneath)

[hiball3985]

Lorne, I was working on the sway bar while my drive shaft was at the shop. I just finished getting the drive shaft in and started to put the rear wheels on and almost couldn't get them on without a fight and they are only 215x14's. I have to jack the car by the frame to get them on but now the sway bar only lets the rear end drop about 2-3". I think if both side were jacked up it would help but I only have one floor jack 

Edit: I jacked it up and put two jack stands under the frame then let the rear end down and picked up a little more clearance that way and the second tire went on easier. This is a concern to me because I burn up a lot of highway and getting a flat is going to be somewhat of a hassle without being able to lift the body on both sides..

[LAUDY57]

Thanks Jim, I'm just lining the bar mounts up now, I lift the car with an old style double pad "bumper" hoist that I can just reach under the frame. I have 245's so I have to let the air out of them (or undo the shocks). I fiddled around another time and found that a scissor jack at the rear side of the frame lifts the car just enough to get my tires off and easier if the air is out. I'll keep your comment in mind now with drop a question mark because of the bar.
I worry too about a flat while out cruisin', I don't want a tow truck guy to damage anything jerking the car up.

[LAUDY57]

OK, so I just was looking at this setup. I have a double pad addition I can bolt on my floor jack so with the frame held up with the "bumper" jack I can raise and lower the rear end levelly with the floor jack. I have the bar just in front of the brake hose and vent junction which puts the front of the bar about 1 in. behind the spring bump stop bracket. It looks like mounting the bar bracket will allow enough angular travel in the bar end so it doesn't hold up the rear housing except when you try and jack up one side like you said. Hm-m-m-m.
Maybe this means some kind of easy dis-connect at the bar to let the one side drop enough for tire removal.

[hiball3985]

Lorne, When I set mine up I had jackstands under the rear end, I wanted the car in it's normal ride height and then set the forward arm of the bar horizontal. I'm not sure if that is totally correct but that was the best I could figure out as the installation sheets are almost worthless. My bar is on center of the axle so the frame mounting bracket is a little further back compared to yours.

I guess I shouldn't worry about getting the tire off while out on the road yet, I don't have a spare  :003, I should note that I have driven nothing but old Fords since 1963, the newest being a 66 and have never been on a tow truck, I've always made it home with the few minor problems I have had.

[LAUDY57]

I can't put it on the centre of the axle because of the vent junction which is probably why they say to raise the junction 2 in.
This needs some thought fer sure.

[hiball3985]

I made a little bracket like is shown on the instruction sheet to raise it. Now the left brake line goes straight across from the wheel cylinder to the junction block.

I meant to ask how did you get 245's under there, is the axle shortened?

[LAUDY57]

No shortened axles but a really tight fit with no fender lips which is ok for sliding the rubber against when removing the wheels. I think I measured the wheels as std 5 1/4 offset. I've massaged the inner panels some but would get some rub on an upslope off camber turn. Re-doing the rear spring rubbers and actually making thin adapters I moved the rear over 5/32 which is small but made a difference. I think the new bars are going to help as well but probably will add a panhard bar or watts link at some point.