Hood hinges

[hotroddonnie]

Nice car and nice work! A side picture would be great if you have one and the time. HRD

[RICH MUISE]

Doug...could you post the number/info/source of the 110# lifts...I'm lazy. Since I won't have a hood latch, only pins and the side safety catch, that's probably a better way for me to go also.
Thanks for posting that info.

[Frankenstein57]

Nice work, I've got to consider that on my 57 project, things pretty rodded up anyhow. I like your test methods, just enjoy stuff like that. Like rich's 12 Volt drill for a power source to test components.   Mark

[57 imposter]

The struts were from McMaster-Carr they are part number 9416K24 and are 120# not 110#.  The end joints are the same  59935K72

[RICH MUISE]

Thanks Doug. I've definetly decided to do that alteration...no choice now. LOL when I was running the ps cooler lines the easiest place was to put the holes in the core support was right under the hinge. I thought about it again for about a minute and that's what I did.

[RICH MUISE]

I've got to get this done on mine pretty soon. I've got a question for those who have done this.... Can the lift be accessed for replacement after the car is totally assembled without removing the grille or hood? It looks like getting to the bottom retaining pin would be a looong reach with the hood on.
I'm thinking of redesigning what Wighty came up with so the gas lift was inside a rectangular tube that attached at the top of the hinge bracket. There are 1/2 or so holes at the top of the bracket on either side. Do they have any purpose?

[RICH MUISE]

ttt

[KYBlueOval]

Well I just couldn't stand not knowing for sure if the gas shocks were going to be too strong. I took one strut off and reassembled the hinge with the stock spring set up. clamped it to the bench and using an old milk scale measured the force required to move the hinge a set number of inches. then I did the same with the other hinge with the gas strut still installed. the gas strut required only 14 lb. more force to move it than did the one with the 55 year old spring. I decided to quit worrying about that. The other thing that bothered me was the small size of the mounting bolt on the top end. I  built a small L bracket, drilled a close tolerance hole and welded it to the hinge arm. Now the bolt goes through the bracket then the heim  joint and into the pin. I think this will give the bolt enough support to keep it from shearing off.

57 Imposter............could you take a photo of this "L" bracket you made and installed, and post it here for all of us to see. I'm going to do this modification, and only want to do it once, and do it right. I'm also interested in the correct gas shocks.....should they be the 120# or the 130# for a stock hood?
Thanks
John

[VwDrvFnd]

Wighty,
i have a couple of questions about yourhood hinge mod. Why didn't you use the existing hole in the hood
arm? Could i use a 3/8" dia shanked bolt with some lock nuts and washers instead of the drill and tapped 3/8" SS Rod? I also found a 3/8" SS Internally Threaded Shoulder bolt that i think would be perfect but only come 2" long
Part # 96655A129.
I dont have much experiance useing taps and helical inserts. I was also thinking of using another 5/16" dia ball end on the pin side with the 1" delrin just as spacers, can you see any drawback with this?
I love your design it's elegant, I am just trying to work up a solution that doesn't involve so much machining.

[RICH MUISE]

If you check out pages before and after the gas shock listing on the Mcmaster-carr online catalog, You will see all kinds of ends and brackets available for them. I also was thinking about a swivel heims joint with a hole for the bottom. spacers would be required on both sides as you mentioned, and that is what got me to thinking about redesigning how the shock was attached to the hinge bracket. Trying to load that retaining pin, spacer, gas shock, 2nd spacer, then trying to attach a clip to retain the pin while the car is assembled would be an exercise in frustration I would think. My concern here is down the road if a shock has to be replaced...not initial assembly.
In my post above, I didn't explain my idea too well, so I'll give it another shot:
A 2 x 2 rectangular tube to fit down inside the hinge bracket. The gas shock would be attached at the bottom of the rectangular tube, the difference being that would be done on the bench rather than on an assembled car. The fabricated rectangular tube would be made in such a manner that it is attached/bolted to the top area of the hinge housing...much easier to access. You would attach the new shock to the tube, then bolt the tube/shock assembly into the hinge bracket.
All that would be left to do is attach the top of the shock to th hinge arm.

[VwDrvFnd]

Thanks for makeing me completely confused now Rich! In doing more research McMaster doesn't list a M6x1, 5/16" ball end to fit around the factory pin. I like Wighty's original idea of drilling and tapping the delrin the more and more i think about it. It shouldn't be that hard with just a drill press. I did find a longer 3/8" shoulder bolts at Fastenal. 

[RICH MUISE]

Sorry for the confusion. Mcmaster does make a 5/16 eyelet end with the m6 thread...which I think is what you were refering to as "5/16 ball end to fit around the factory pin". It is pn 9416K84.
I just ordered everything from Mcmaster-Carr I think I'll need for the idea I came up with including 2 expensive ss 5/16 x 2" shoulder bolts with internal end threads pn 96655A123. I also ordered the asortment of m6 ends and ball studs. I went with the 130# lift as my hood, unlike 57Imposter's, is actually heavier than oem (large hood scoop)
In the next week or so, after I receive the MC stuff, I should have them pretty much on their way, and hopefully some pics will end the confusion. I picked up some 1/8 wall 2x2 rec. tubing today...3ft remnant for $5. I'll get the tubing portion made while I'm waiting for the lifts and hardware.
BTW, while we're waiting for wighty to respond to questions....I suspect the reason the original hole was not used may have been for 3 reasons. Hole size, and the length of the air lift/assembled ends when depressed would require a specific span between the two mounting holes, and thirdly interference with the air lift's body against the inner front side of the hinge bracket. If you notice the slotted spring guide/holder? moves the center of the spring towards the core support 1 1/2 or so.

[VwDrvFnd]

Funny, I ordered most of the stuff i need from Mcmaster-Carr yesturday as well, had it overnighted and it was on my porch by 10:30am. Took a look into the 5/16 eyelet end and that's what is needed for a easier option. I already bought the delrin and M6 helia coils but I would rather have another eyelet on the pin end. I can still drill the delrin and use it for spacers. That shoulder bolt is the same one I was looking at but without haveing the hinge brackets off the car I am not sure 2" is going to be enough grip on that bolt. The internally threaded shoulder bolt would be much much easier than drilling and tapping a SS rod.

[RICH MUISE]

My version will not be using the 2" long shoulder bolt thru the hinge bracket, only the inner 2" tube, so the 2" will be perfect for me. Kinda expensive at 10.80 each, but will make the job easier.

[RICH MUISE]

First, a quote from the Mcmaster Carr catalog:
Note: All gas springs contain pressurized nitrogen gas as well as hydraulic fluid that lubricates the seal and provides slam-resistant damping at the end of the stroke. To avoid loss of force, you should store and install gas springs rod-end down.
Unless he changed them, wighty's is rod end up.
Second' a pic that will give a better idea of my approach. I still have alot of fitting to do, but it was getting dark, and I can't go too far until I get the lifts. I'm thinking I will attach the top of the lift where I have the X marked after cutting off the slotted down piece....that would be putting it pretty close to the oem location of the spring. The bottom of the lift would be attached to the bottom of the 2 x 2 tube, and I can extend the tube  beyond the bottom of the bracket if I need to to accomadate the overall compressed length of the lift with ends attached.
Once again, the only reasons for the tube is easier acceability for gas lift repacement, and the fact it can all be done with a cut off tool and drill press...no machined parts.