Fixing up my car a little

[gasman826]

don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!

Looks good!!

I haven't tried this yet but if there is a next time for fenderwell headers, I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys.  I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors.  I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.

[Ecode70D]

Well Jay I'm impressed, you sure can get the job done quick! Your faster then the TV shows, build a car in 72 hrs with 8 guys.....you did it yourself in a week. LOL! HRD.

HRD... It's real tough competing with the TV show 72 hour restoration projects.  I have often wondered how many "dangerous shortcuts" they take when they are under the pressure to finish them yesterday.  Pretty paint can cover a lot of bad stuff.   

[Ecode70D]

  Don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!
  I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys.  I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors.  I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.

  Gary...
     On the late night photo shop work , that's the best I could do without hurting the car.

     On the tri five headers.  I have read somewhere that it is an easy job to do.  If and when you have to do it, with your talent, it's going to be a walk in the park.  I just can't find where I read about it.   Jay
     

[gasman826]

much better photo shop job than I can do.

been cleaning and painting garnish mouldings and other interior stuff.  There's a bunch of this stuff...worse than painting the outside of the car.

[gasman826]

Those little garnish like pieces that support the kick panels and the windlace on the lower, front edge of the door opening that are always rusted off at the bottom...I've got a fix.  I had several pairs of these that all had the bottom rusted off.  I cut the tops off two of them and welded them to the bottoms of two others.  The radius of the top curve is really close to the radius of the bottom curve.  I laid it out so the holes line up to fasten them to the A pillar.  I metal finished the 'show' side (1st two photos).  I was not so concerned with the back side (photo 3).  Just an idea for a hard to find part.

[Ford Blue blood]

You got it going there...getting ready to "make" new lowers.  Have a good one for example (mirror) and will try to post pics.  Wish I had saved the bad ones from the 300 I put to rest....

[Ecode70D]

I cut the tops off two of them and welded them to the bottoms of two others.  The radius of the top curve is really close to the radius of the bottom curve.  I laid it out so the holes line up to fasten them to the A pillar. 

Gary
     That's exactly 100% the same thing that I did when I was faced with that problem.  At the time I was happy that I had extra pieces to work with.  Jay

[Frankenstein57]

don't you hate those hand cramps you get from working photo shop night and day!

Looks good!!

I haven't tried this yet but if there is a next time for fenderwell headers, I'm going to buy a cheap set of Speedway Motors' BBC fenderwell headers for tri-five chevys.  I have read that they are really close to fitting with a flange change for 385 or 345 motors.  I would be very curious to see if the SBC header with flange change fit the Y block applications.

Gary, there was a guy on the y blocks forever site that modified a set of sbc headers to fit a y block flange, turned out nice, he had a few guys asking him to make some.   Mark