Five Years (+10) and counting

[gasman826]

Thanks for your thoughts.  I'm venting today:  if you don't like wiring, rethink EFI.  I'm pretty much through the issues but it has taken weeks.

[RICH MUISE]

Wow...my efi seemed so simple compared to building your own harness.  "weeks"...it would take me 2 years and probably never run right. Then again mine still isn't running "right"....just good enough to be put on the back burner while I'm addressing other issues.

[lalessi1]

I MAY use an aftermarket EFI on my FE at some point. I can't imagine using a factory setup.... too much for me. I got aggravated day before yesterday trying to get my surround system set up!!!!!

[gasman826]

Most of the issues came from intergrating systems with other vendor harnesses.  The FAST main harness is too universal by attempting to have wires and connections for too many accessories.  There are options for NOS (up to 4 stages of NOS), torque converter lockup, crank sensor/cam sensor/ or distributor, A/C controls, fan controls, and more and more.  If some options are NOT used, circuits have to be grounded to avoid noise interference.  Once I was into the harness, I eliminated unused wires and connectors and custom fit the harness to my car.  I've connected the Dual-Sync distributor, MSD 6AL CD box, Weldon fuel pump controller, Vintage Air, Ron Francis chassis harness, LS6 injectors and even the Pioneer radio harness all together with no left over wires or connectors.

[gasman826]

two steps backward.  Removed the headers and sent out for ceramic powder coating.  Just got them back and reinstalled.  Tight fit.

[gasman826]

Wiring nearing completion.  Testing systems.  Piecing back together.

[KYBlueOval]

Wiring nearing completion.  Testing systems.  Piecing back together.

As always, very nice work sir. I look forward to seeing the finished console as I have a '66 T'Bird Console for my Ranchero. I'm interested to see how you finish "The Top " of the console........... the area around the shifter etc., that runs to the front of he console.
John

[gasman826]

Several years ago I ordered all the gaskets, seals and window channels that I could find (get'em while you can).  A couple of years ago I had glass cut and installed in the front, rear, quarter, and vent glass.  When I assembled the vent to the division bar, I found the rigid, division channel replacements fit but fit poorly.  I had ordered a division channel kit from REPOPS.  The channels were pre-cut and pre-drilled correctly but the channels were too proud when installed into the stainless vent window division bar.  The replacement channels were 9/16"x1/2" and need to be 1/2"x1/2".  Since I ordered these years ago, I cann't very well return them even if I could find the paperwork.  Over the summer, I have looked at every restored '57.  Nearly everyone of them had the same condition...the division channel stainless bead stood away from the division bar.  Now this doesn't affect the performance of anything.  It just isn't right.  I asked owners about this and most were oblivious.  A few owners said they also used a kit.  The owners of the correct fitting ones said they had used bulk rigid division channel cut to size and drilled their own holes.  That catches you up to where I'm at shopping for division channel.  I'm leery of ordering another kit so I'm focusing on a supplier for 1/2"x1/2" stainless beaded, rigid division channel.  What has been your experience?

[lalessi1]

Gary, Now I am a little concerned about mine, I bought them a while back as well so I went and measured them. The outside dimension on the beaded part of the original ones still in my is car is a .62" give or take. That looks close to the ones I bought, they are .612 wide. The overall depth is .518" to the top of the bead. The channel width is 1/2". They look on the surface to be the right part. They were not part of a kit but they have holes drilled in them? I don't remember (not surprised) where I got 'em so now I am thoroughly confused.....?

[Partsman]

Try Steele Products.  They have large selection runs & fuzzies with dimensions.

[RICH MUISE]

I got mine from Classic Auto Parts in Oklahoma City. I just went out and double checked mine and the fit of the beaded channel with fuzzies that fits into the stainless division bar is perfect. There are no gaps between the bead and the bar, which if I am reading your statement correctly, is the problem you have... I've been recommending C A P for years and except for the problem I had with one anti rattler strip's mounting clips scratching my glass, I have had good luck and good feedback.
Who is "repop's"? First I've ever heard of that source.

[Ford Blue blood]

I have been relining them.  Clean the old stuff out of the channel.  Lacquer thinner and a small course wire brush get all the old stuff out very well.  Then take the "loop" portion of self sticky Velcro and work into place.  Be advised, patience is required.  I use a screen lock strip roller to seat the Velcro in the corner.  Steady hand as the sticky stuff is really sticky!  After it is seated use a razor blade to cut the extra off.  The blade will find it's way between the stainless bead and the body of the channel.  Roll that again and smile. 

I'll post a couple of pictures of the Edsel.  Did this on the 66 Falcon, a 62 Bird, the 65 Bird and will be doing it with the Ranchero.

[gasman826]

Reline them...good option.  I've already torn them apart so I'm still looking.

REPOPS  http://www.repops.com/about.cfm

Steele Rubber has a helpful option.  Email them your make and model, they'll send you a custom parts list.  I found the invoice for the seals and gaskets...$1000.00!!!

[gasman826]

I just reviewed the Classic Auto Parts catalog.  I'm always impressed with almost every catalog carries most of the same parts but almost every one of them has a part that no one else offers.  The rigid, division channel for '57s is listed at $10.95 each.  That's really cheap!!!  I received universal, rigid division bar channel 1/2"by 1/2" today with my Steele Rubber order for the vent window seals.  I'll have to cut to length and drill holes.  Steele Rubber's vent seals are the most expensive but I've used them before and they fit really good.  Don't want to mess with success.  I have an extra set of right and left door hardware.  So I have disassembled everything, cleaned, media blasted, Eastwood Zinc coated, polished the stainless.  I found one of the vent window pins is broke.  Back to the farm to get another door and tomorrow I'll strip out that door hoping to find a good vent window frame.

[gasman826]

smoothed drip rail and eliminated window stainless look