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gas tank sending unit - ranchero and ranch wagon

Started by meteor, 2014-07-07 22:39

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meteor

hey, I know there has been some discussion on this recently but...

My gas gauge recently changed in how it was reading (has been consistent for the last 5 years). So I pulled my sending unit the other day (the one from dennis carpenter - not meant for rancheros and wagons) to try and measure the resistance (without luck), in hopes that I might find a universal sending unit in the same ohm range. Was doing something wrong as it read 0 at empty and 0 at full. So my first question is what is the ohm range for the stock 57 sending unit?

Now I have an issue, I put the sending unit back in but it is not sealing, gas is sloshing out of my tank when the level is near the sending unit hole. Also when I try and fill the tank, it pours out the top of the tank from around the sending unit. The gasket that originally came with the sending unit was a weird little ribbon-type thing which makes no sense to me so I used an o-ring. I can't put a thick o-ring in there because I can't put pressure on it from above to compress it - the access hole is under the damn floor and I have about 4inches of space to work in. I assume I need to drop the tank...

...but what have others done? what kind of sending unit? what kind of gasket?

...has anyone put a voltage reducer on the gauge? 12v wiring to 6v gauge - does this help with gauge accuracy? or does it matter since the sending unit is not right for the car?

thanks for the help

Matt
check out my site: www.brightworkautoart.com

RICH MUISE

The gasket that came with my new tank and sending unit lock nut is a cork gasket.
I can do this, I can do this, I, well, maybe

hiball3985

I'm not sure what the  ohm reading on the original should be, I haven't found that spec. But I'm sure at 0 ohms the gauge should be reading full. On the back of the dash panel is a constant voltage regulator the only allows a smaller, I think 6v to the gas and temp gauge. I use the ribbon looking gasket on mine when I changed it and it doesn't leak, I believe that is what the original one used also.
My original sending unit finally gave out. I passed on the DC units after reading several posts and talking to a few owners that said the weren't any good. I bought what was suppose to be one for the ranchero/wagon for a $100 that turned out to be a piece of crap also, it reads empty when it still has a 1/2 tank, I've tried bending the arm etc with no luck. I'm thinking about buying a chepo one for a Tbird and experimenting  :003:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

petew

I found a place that will rebuild them if you have an original that's broken but they aren't cheap. North of $100.00 as I recall. But I figure since you can't get wagon senders it's a option.
www.antiqueinstrument.com

Pete

hiball3985

That was something I had considered originally. But Mr. Fixit decided to do it himself, and now all the kings horses and all the kings men can't put back together again  :BangHead:
JIM:
HAPPY HOUR FOR ME IS A GOOD NAP
The universe is made up of electrons, protons, neutrons and morons.
1957 Ranchero
1960 F100 Panel
1966 Mustang

gasman826

Battle of the Ranch Wagon fuel tank has finally ended.  Had the original tank cleaned by dipping.  Worked great with no etching away of good metal.  Went with the RENUE franchise to seal the inside and coat the outside (including the fill tube).  The inside coating is ethanol compatible.  Cost as much as a new repop tank but after ordering three tanks, all were on back order.  I installed a stainless, eBay fuel sender for a car tank ($25.00).  I bent the wire to match the wagon sender.  The repop sender was problematic to install because it had no alignment tab to keep it from rotating with the locking ring.  I used a gasket sealer on the o-ring and let it set/dry with a little tension on the locking ring.  The next day, I tightened the locking ring without rotating the sender.  I confirmed the gauge operation by adding five gallons of gas at a time.  Gauge reading was right on the marks for each five gallons added.  Finished the install with new fuel line front to rear with a new (Carpenter) flex fuel line to the fuel pump.  Topped off with a really old (maybe original) vented gas cap.

FYI--Those who are increasing horse power might want to inspect the flexible fuel line between the fuel pump and fuel line.  The holes are tiny and could be restrictive for big power.

Now on to the transmission leak!!!!!!!!!!!

Raven Rider

Can you tell me more about the sender and what is a Carpenter hose? 

gasman826

I bought this cheap one on eBay.  It is NOT for Rancheros and wagons.  It is stainless.  It is cheap.  I bent the float rod to be more similar to the wagon sender.  I've had it in the Ranch Wagon for a couple of months and is working fine.  An occasional NOS wagon sender is north of $125 if you can find one.  Rebuilding an original sender is north of $125 IF IT IS NOT RUSTY.  My OEM sender was crispy. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-60-Ford-Thunderbird-57-58-Monterey-Stainless-Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-SALE-/361041511252?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1957%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item540fc04354&vxp=mtr

The Carpenter hose I mentioned is a Dennis Carpenter supplied OEM style hose between the fuel pump and steel fuel line up front in the engine compartment.