Throttle pedal assembly

[RICH MUISE]

Cool...keep us posted. You may want to check out the thread I've got going on my 4.6 install..."4.6 dohc being installed now"...starting on page 25, bottom, I've got pics and info on the gas pedal linkage, and after that I get into the fuel pump install. I ran into some clearance issues with the fuel pump location I chose, so you may want to read about that before you start.
What are you planning for shift linkage? Floor?

[Kenny]

Ok I will check out the thread.  I am curious about the tank pump unit so that will help me prepare.  So what you are saying is the tank is too close to the trunk floor for the pump set up?  I was considering cutting an access panel in the floor for future pump access but at the moment I am not at the car so I can't tell how tight it will be.  I will read your post.

  With the donor package I got a drag racing AOD that is a Super Comp, has a trans brake, full manual shift and Neil Chance 2800 stall converter along with a B andM pro stick shifter.  I am no drag racer and after reading all about this kind of set up my plan is to sell it as a package and stick with an overhauled AOD and match a Lokar floor shifter to it.  That trans brake seems like it could be dangerous in a street car.  Thanks again for input.  I will start a thread once the project gets started this fall.

[RICH MUISE]

Check out Tanks Inc. They make a neat setup using a Walbro pump, and it has a built in sump/baffle/? to keep air getting into the line on a low tank. you definetly need to recess the pump mounting down from the top surface of the tank, otherwise you will have it sticking up thru the trunk floor. Tanks inc. makes a neat recess box for this.
What I was talking about, as you'll find in that article, is if you want the pump towards the front of the tank (opposite the fuel filler), you will run into the bottom floor brace/tank mounting brace that runs the full width of the tank..right up against it. This doesn't create interference with the pump itself, but the fuel lines. I had to heavily dimple that brace to get the lines passed under. The only side of the tank that is "open", or clear, is the driver's side , so if one were to install the pump on that side instead of the front, you wouldn't have the fuel line clearance problems I did.
If you back up a few more pages on the thread I mentioned, you should find some step by step info on the install of the recess box. BTW, the ni-tern gas tank that auto city classic sells welds great....I was worried about poisenous fumes like you get with galvanized stuff, but there weren't any.
Page 21 on the 4.6 install thread is where you'll find pics of the recess box install.
Rich

[Kenny]

Tanks inc is the pump set up I had chosen but was hoping not to have to weld in the recessed box.  I can weld but would not trust it to be air tight so I may have to contract that out.  After my last post I went and read your description and will keep that to when I get the car jacked up and tank removed.  What kind of welder did you use to do the tank?

[RICH MUISE]

I used the only thing I know how to use...a mig, and I hope it's good. For checking leaks, I didn't want to put anything in the tank except a solvent that would evaporate quickly and not contaminate the weld. I did end up doing it twice, mainly because I ground off too much of the first weld, and didn't feel comfortable with it in view of the fact it's got the pump mounted to it. I got it to the point where laquer thinner wasn't seeping thru anywhere, and in light of the fact it's on the top of the tank and not normally submerged in gasolene, I think it's gonna be ok. I'll keep an eye on it.