rack and pinion systems

Frankenstein57 · 2012-06-05 20:48

Tarheel, don't know if you have room or would want one, but we would bolt on an aluminum skid plate on the dirt cars, Mark

tarheel57 · 2012-06-05 21:11

I thought about something like that to protect the flat plate that is mounted onto the bottom of the rack that the sterring rods fasten to.The only thing out on the highway this could ride up/slide on the pavement if If came up on an area were the center of the lane was raised up,(we have this alot around here were heavy trucks and trailers sit at stop lights and signs. Tarheel57

gasman826 · 2012-06-06 07:09

I'd like to see a picture. Your lines are on the bottom side of the rack? As you can see from the picture, my lines face forward and up. I have also run aground on the humped asphalt. My low point is the Lakewood belhousing. Boy, does it plow a furrow! I put screen over the vent holes to keep pieces out of the belhousing.

tarheel57 · 2012-06-07 20:35

Gasman826 , my lines are not on the bottom,they run at about the 9 oclock position if you were looking at it from the end.These are the 2 lines that run along the rack and come already on the rack.My car is a little loud and I think at some point I let that flat center plate mounted on the bottom of the rack maybe bottom out and didnt notice it.Im thinking this might have moved up enough to make these lines move and bend.There is not enough line to really move them out of the way like I would like to.I may look into making some longer lines were I can get them out of the way a little more.Thanks

gasman826 · 2012-06-08 08:23

That area is a little busy. My lines are 90 degrees (+/_) to the ground facing forward. I set the engine quite low. The bottom of the oil pan is lower than the OEM front cross member. I was trying to conserve as much carb to hood clearance as possible. The lowest point on the bottom side of the car is the seam on the Lakewood bellhousing. Next is the oil pan (couple of dents from the foreheads of woodchucks). The rack is tucked up behind the front cross member. If something hit your adapter plate, a skid plate may be in order. The front cross member is handy and would be a prime candidate for a skid plate location. But if you're hitting stuff hard enough to shove debris up behind the front cross member and bend your steering linkage, a skid plate might not be the modification you require. Maybe trading for a Sherman would be more practical. I'd still like to see a picture.

RICH MUISE · 2012-06-26 22:08

Well, I'll post a pic of mine. Cut down the Mustang steering shaft components, did a little grinding to fit the r&p double u-joint just temporarily, because unfortunatly the Mustang shaft is 1/16 under the 3/4 bearing support and u-joint...but it gets me close enough to check for component lengths before I have machining done to get it right. I was thinking of running a bolt-on 1/8 x 4 crs plate across the opening where the thin sheetmetal cover is and using the Mustang firewall column support.

Opinions are apreciated...never done a steering system before. Am I close with the u-joint positioning?...at lease enough so that I can have a shaft machined and welded to replace the ribbed-looking one. will the firewall support be adequate?
First photo shows the u-joint on ass end of steering column which gives alot of latitude on where the column can exit the firewall.
Also, since I posted this pic... I found some really neat clips to keep my wiring organized as I'm going along. They are self adhesive and hold like crazy, and snap open and closed easily to add or move wires. They will help keep the wires and my brain organized as I'm going along. when I'm done, I'll probably change them out for the more permanent type.

gasman826 · 2012-06-27 20:28

If it is turning without bind, maybe its time to leave it alone. You did ask for opinions and they say everyone has one. If you were to make any changes/improvements. I would consider straightening the upper, single, factory joint and putting more angle in the double joint. That double will almost make a 90 without binding and that upper factory joint looks a little distressted. The factory bearing/support looks like a great idea.

Ford Blue blood · 2012-06-27 21:45

Rich look at the support bearing location on Gasman's installation. I feel yours needs to be moved closer to the double juoint to prevent "lumpy" spots (binding under load) and premature failure of one of the joints.

RICH MUISE · 2012-06-29 13:36

Gary, Bill: thanks for the input...that was exactly what I needed.
Bill...I have to get the bearing support bracket redrilled to lower the support closer to the double joint as you pointed out, but I'm on it!
Gary...I picked up a length of Borgeson polished 3/4 ss shaft and a swivel bearing firewall support at Parr Automotive in Ok. city yesterday. It'll give more adjustment than I would have been able to get with the factory piece shown in the pic.They did not have a s.s. single dd joint, so I'll get one ordered. I also picket up some 1/8 x 3" plate stock to make a bracket for the firewall support. With the u-joint on the back end of the steering column, I can move the shaft substantially without putting too much angle on the inner one, but substantially straightening out the angle on the lower one, as you mentioned.
One more question before I order the rest of the stuff...Do you think a Borgeson vibration dampener/u-joint combo is a worthwhile item (110. plain, 155 s.s.), or should I just wait and see down the road if I need it. This would be an alternative to the rag-joint.
I'm going to pick up a 3/4 wooden dowel to get my configuration correct..that Borgeson 22" plished shafting is 63 bucks..only want to buy it once!

RICH MUISE · 2012-06-29 14:32

Hopefully I understood Bill and Gary correctly..is this is closer to where I should be??
Towel is making it easier to see, hiding clamps/clutter to hold thing close to in place

gasman826 · 2012-06-29 15:22

Looking really good. As my pictures show, there is no vibration dampener. The rack is mounted in rubber so the only vibration/harshness could come up the tie rods and the rack is full of oil. I'm using an OEM Lincoln column. I have never felt vibration or heard noise related to the steering.

I noticed that you are doing the steering mock up with out the engine installed. A great time to do it. Before you cut once...measure twice. Does everything clear the steering? Engine, headers, what nots....

Ford Blue blood · 2012-06-29 16:55

Nope, Rich your intial picture looked good. That support fitting is what needs to be moved toward the double u-joint. What you showed in the posting was fine, just shorten the steering shaft side of things a little and move that support bearing as close to the double as you can. Your last picture looks like the column is now cocked out a little.

RICH MUISE · 2012-06-29 22:19

OK..got a high quality wooden dowel from Lowe's..LOL..sure is a lot cheaper than the Borgensen one. Bill, I moved the steering shaft back out a little ways, but kept it in a lower position to eliminate some of the angle on the single joint that Gary was talking about. Moved the bearing support closer to the double joint...maybe a little too close. Also a pic of the adjustable firewall support.

Ford Blue blood · 2012-06-29 22:36

Perfecto! Looks really good and there will be no binding or "lumpy" feeling with a load on.

RICH MUISE · 2012-06-30 07:32

Awesome!!...I'll hopefully get it finished up before too long...the wife is starting to push a little to get me back onto the house projects, and my nephew is coming over to help me install the biggest air conditioner I could find for my garage to help fight the 100 plus temps we've been having.
Thanks Bill

News:

rack and pinion systems