starting my 4.6 swap

[canadian_ranchero]

engine out of a 95 mark VIII,4r70w transmission from a 2001 f150[trans has better parts inside]going with a 3.56 posi diff,coil on plug,2001 cobra exhaust manifolds,going to try run the 6 cyl rad. using the early 93 computer[no speed limiter and no anti theft] will try to take pictures.i am hoping this will let me get into traffic better than my 6 cyl   

[RICH MUISE]

This has been a long time coming, Gary! Congrats on the start...yours will still be a driver before mine, lol. Seriously, that's great, Gary...keep us posted, and pics as you go.

[RICH MUISE]

Any progress?

[canadian_ranchero]

have about one more day of getting the garage organized.thinking of swaping the front brakes first[need the weight to swap the spindles]i picked up some cams from a mustang cobra will swap them when the engine is on the stand,hope to start on the project later this week

[RICH MUISE]

Any idea how many HP the cams will add? Did you buy them new or find a used set somewhere?

[canadian_ranchero]

now that i have my furnace fixed,pulled the trans off the engine and got it on a stand.the cams should give 10 or 15 hp.but will loose some bottom end torque.i have a second set of cams,these are reground ones by colt cams.close to the same duration,but higher lift.my engine dyno program says these may be a better choice,more torque and hp below 3500 rpm,about the same as stock at higher rpm.all ebay stuff.

[canadian_ranchero]

just a update,going over the engine found a few issues,changing the rod bearings,repairing some of the timing chain parts,replacing valve seals,putting in cobra valve springs,and the colt cams.waiting for some of the parts to show up.swaped in my lincoln versailles front brakes,bolted right up[has a bigger lower ball joint hole than the granada]found some outer tie rods from a 77 town car that look like they will fit[a little long,as long as i can set the toe,they will be fine]getting ready to pull the front clip

[RICH MUISE]

Glad you got some heat going up there, and you're making some progress. Are you still planning on using/modifying the MK Viii wiring harness? Keep us posted...I'm sure you'll end up doing stuff different than I did, so I'm really anxious to see how you approach some of the little problem areas.

[canadian_ranchero]

still planing on using the markVIII harness.

[canadian_ranchero]

the point of no return

[RICH MUISE]

No turning back now!! That's a heck of a garage you've got there..something new? Don't forget to replace those cowl drain tubes while you've got her apart. I sure envy your lift...especially after having to crawl under my jacked up car to try and reach all the tranny connectors. Sometime after my car is up and driving, I've got to get it over to my friends shop so I can properly wrap all the tranny wires....for now, just too hard to reach.

[RICH MUISE]

Gary...some things I didn't do on mine that I should have when I was at the stage you are at:
#1..trim the passenger side control arm bracket...the rear ear, about 3/8 or 1/2 vertically. The control arm itself should be ok.
#2..trim the firewall/cowl weld flange back to flush right in the center where it is already narrowed down.....air inlet to the throttle body is very tight in that area.
#3...consider how far back you want the engine to sit when you slot the motor mount pads. I moved mine back a little further than you and Claiborn were indicating to clear my rack and pinion. One advantage of this is the driveshaft from the Mark VIII will work, but just barely. I'm intending to "get it right" when I redo my rear differential by changing to a taller differential yoke. Another inch of spine engagement at the tranny will be perfect. If I remember correctly, I had the plain of the belhousing 4 1/2" from the firewall....a little more after I raised the tranny to it's final resting height.
Another advantage of moving it back is more room for the electric fans up front, and also the tranny mount holes will be in a better position.
A disadvantage of moving it back is I had to modify the oil pan to clear the engine crossmember. I actually pie cut the oil pan and rewelded it. This turned out to be a pain in the butt because that oil pan is a double wall affair.. If I had to do it over again, I'd seriously consider denting in the back corner of the pan with a big ball pein hammer....seriously.

I feel like the student telling the teacher

[RICH MUISE]

Just remembered...those slots on the motor mount pads....be aware that the Mustang motor mounts we are using have the main stud location at a different height right side to left side.... so this obviously means the slots won't be cut at the same height either

[canadian_ranchero]

i have wanted a nice shop for about 30 years.spent most of last year getting it to this point.i am not getting any younger,if i did not do it now,may not have done it at all.my plan is fit the trans to the stock crossmember.go back till the trans pan just clears.i have the motor mount pads/brakets i cut off a mustang.going to weld them on over the 57 mounts

[canadian_ranchero]

if you check my other posts you will see i am doing the steering and brakes at the same time[and now the wipers]