dogleg fender bolt access

[djfordmanjack]

I thought of welding in a cage nut too, but I think the factory designers used the metal screw on purpose. that bolt goes right in the channel of the sweapt pillar. it always gets wet and will cause a threaded bolt to seize. maybe it would be a good idea to use a stainless bolt. Since I am going to dissasemble the a post  I might reinforce this area with a second layer of sheetmetal on the inside and keep the metal screws. this should hold up firmly.

[Ecode70D]

I thought of welding in a cage nut too, but I think the factory designers used the metal screw on purpose. that bolt goes right in the channel of the sweapt pillar. it always gets wet and will cause a threaded bolt to seize. maybe it would be a good idea to use a stainless bolt. Since I am going to dissasemble the a post  I might reinforce this area with a second layer of sheetmetal on the inside and keep the metal screws. this should hold up firmly.

  Günter...   That's a good idea too.  How are you going to make it so that the two layers don't hold condensation?   That could cause it to rust also. 
     Why not weld a stainless nut in there and use a stainless bolt?   
      We seem to spend a lot of time thinking about these things don't we?

RMK57 or whoever knows for sure......     I never heard the term dog leg for that  part.  Is that the official name or car guy talk?
     

[djfordmanjack]

Jay, since I will get access to the inside of the 'dogleg' panel, I will have it blasted and thoroughly rust proof the seam of the reinforcement sheet metal with epoxy. using all stainless hardware for this area would be a good idea, but remember to put copper anti seize on the SS threads or they might bind if fastened too quickly or tightly.
I often have heard the term dogleg used in car slang. mostly in (VW) vans where the front wheelwell ( where the drivers door is over the front wheel) has , well, the shape of the dogleg. the same with 4dr rear doors. it is a completely different area on the 57, but, well, it still has the shape of a - dogleg... 

[rmk57]

I have no idea, that's just what I called it. Maybe windshield pillar might the correct term. The only way I can see to gain access to the dogleg area is through the kick panel. There are a couple of oblong holes punched out you maybe able access through there. Don't know about removing the dash as I didn't have to.

Also how gap should there be between the front hood edge and the filler panel? I have about 1/2' to 5/8" and if I close it up that it increases to the rear/ cowl area.

Randy

[canadian_ranchero]

my wagon has the captured nut with bolts

i stand corrected mine does have the screw type bolts

[RICH MUISE]

My front end is just about ready for the sheetmetal now. I'll wait until the windshield is put in though. I did manage to get two caged nuts installed in the rockers. Just took a few minutes after I spent an hour trying to put them in the wrong way. I was trying to get then in with the wings to the side, trying to squeeze them with right angled needle nose pliers thru the hole in the end of the rockers. Once I figured out to put them with the wings front to back (after grinding the wing corners off so they were more triangular than rectangular) I got them both installed in literaly 3 or 4 minutes. I added rubber squeak guards to the areas that were close to touching the firewall flange.
I ended up short 2 pieces of the 5/16 clip nuts for the fender to wheelwell attachment...had to buy a bag of 25 at the local body shop supply. Oh well, only 12 bucks, and I didn't have to drive all over town trying to find a smaller package.
When I was in Phoenix last month I picked up some "hot rod door weatherstripping" made by Vintique. It's a half round, hollow, and self adhesive. I'm using that instead of the L shaped for the wheel well flange where it follows the fender contour. The stuff grips really well, not so much immediatly, but overnight the stuff really grips. I'll let you guys know how it works out, but I think it'll be just fine...and didn't have to mess with the stapeling.

[RICH MUISE]

BTW, I found a really good adhesive for small rubber pieces. I had bought some "liquid electrical tape" at Lowe's. I bought it not for it's intended use but to dip metal brackets I had made for the engine compartment for the battery cables. It put a nice rubber coating on the brackets just like the ones that come already done. I bought it because I couldn't find the tool handle dipping stuff they sold for years.
Anyway, I was having a hard time getting the 3m weatherstrip adhesive to grip the rubber sheeting I was using for squeak pads, so gave the "liquid elec. tape" a shot...worked great!