AOD Trans conversion

[RICH MUISE]

From what I was told this morning, all AOD's are the same as far as bellhousing to mounting holes location. I did find out my 4R70W (and AODE) are in fact different. The AOD has a 1" shorter mounting hole location, which adds even more to my confusion about how it is you have to move your mounting location back 3 1/2", I would have had to move forward an inch if mine were the AOD dimension.
How did you determine you had to move back? Sorry if I'm adding some confusion here, I know how thorough your project planning usually is, something just doesn't sound right to me, and I'm really curious what Bill has to say. I'm not sure Gary's numbers would be of use because he has so many frame modifications done (or maybe not, I may be thinking of his sedan)

[gasman826]

I didn't respond to cross member issues because: 1) mine is a Windsor engine 2) I tossed the OEM cross member.  On the first AOD install, I modified the OEM cross member much like the C6 modifications...pan clearance and tweak the mount holes.  Even though the modifications clearance the pan enough for operation, it did not clear enough for easy pan removal for maintenance.  So, for a better fit, easier maintenance, and exhaust pipe clearance, I made another cross member.  As far as the different lengths between AOD, AODE and 4R70, this is the first I've heard of it.  I have found no main case length difference in these models.  I have found two length tailshaft/tailhousings...about an inch.  I use the harder to find, longer tail.  With the longer tail and longer rear yoke, the Crown Vic Police aluminum drive shaft fits.  I also use the 4R70 long tail housing with its bigger bushing and tail seal.  This also means a bigger slip yoke to reduce premature bushing and seal failure.  The AOD/AODE slip yoke is C4 compatible.  The 4R70 yoke stands alone.

[Ford Blue blood]

His AOD will be set back further because of the adaptor between the engine and the transmission bell housing.  If I remember he said it was 2" wide, that and the back of the Y-block block sticks out further then the later model engines we used.

[RICH MUISE]

here's where I got the dimensional differences
http://non-stoptransmission.com/en/info-ford.php   dim "c". Note the comment about the mounting pads usually being on the tail extension, which is what I was wondering if there were different extensions as far as mounting points.
Yes, mine is a modular engine, BUT, where it was set was determined by where the front of the tranny bellhousing had to be to clear everything (rack), so what engine it is really didn't come in to play. Yes, the 2" adapter, but that's only 1/2 of the difference were looking at.
Really doesn't matter, except to urge Rich to recheck his dimensions

[ROKuberski]

Regarding the location of the mount location for my transmission.  I've got it bolted up and then I put the two lower bolts on the right side of the cross member and pushed it up as far as I can to get a location.  If I push up on the tail of the transmission, I can move it a very small amount, enough to say it's not hitting sheet metal.  With no support under the transmission, there is no sag.  I have a temp support under it now just to take any strain off of the engine mounts, but where it is is not going to change.  I would not feel comfortable coping out enough of the stock cross member to gain the clearance I need. 

I have the two lower bolts on the right side of the transmission tight and the lowest one on the left side tight.  I can't get a socket on the rest of them.  I "may" cut an access hole in the transmission tunnel for the top two.  I don't think the existing access holes are lining up with the AOD bolt heads, but I may be able to see them.

The mount I bought is for the 2000 Explorer.  From mounting surface to mounting surface, it's 2.75"  That seems like a lot, shorter would help.  Anyone using a shorter unit?

I was not very clear on how I intend to modify my cross member.

The sketch is just to show the cut joint.  I want to cut clear through the cross member and remove the center section.  then move that section forward to where it needs to be.  I will use a 3/8" steel plate to reconnect the cut sections.  I will be able to bolt in the two side sections to the frame, then bolt the transmission mount to the tailshaft and attach the center section of the cross member to the mount.  All I need to do then is make sure I have the 3/8" gap on each side of the center section and measure the 3/8" plate to do the reattachment.  I don't have a welder, but I know a guy that has one I can borrow.  I'll tack weld the pieces together then remove the cross member and do structural welds at the joints.  At least that's today's plan.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Because of clearance issues, I had to redo the lever arrangement for my shifter modifications.

I had a conversation with LOKAR tech rep today and found out that kit I bought for mounting the TV cable will not work on my Holley EFI unit.  They don't make a kit for the 2V unit.

After leaning over the fender and studying the accelerator linkage (the location of which is the problem for the TV cable) I think I have a solution for this too.  I will have to abandon the the stock linkage and fabricate a new mount for the pivot point and make a place to mount the TV cable housing. 

Today, I was thinking, there is not another car on the planet exactly like mine.  Which is why there are so many installation issues to be solved.  I'm sure it's the same for many of you.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

I've got guests this week so not much work done on the car.   However, I do have the shift linkage installed and it's working.  Different than my last posting.  I will post the accurate dimensions soon.

I need to make a new throttle linkage and I think I can use the SRK-4000 mounting kit for the TV cable even it if is not for my setup.

Thanks,

Rich

[ROKuberski]

I'm back to work on the transmission transplant.

I've got the cross member spot welded together and the new throttle linkage and TV cable connected.  I bought a longer front yoke ($61) so I don't have to modify the driveshaft (that would cost $200.)  The new yoke takes a different universal joint.  The Fairlane uses a 1310 type of u-joint the Mustang yoke that I bought uses the 1330 type of joint, so I am getting a combination u-joint.  That will be delivered on Monday from Autozone, about $24. 

Attached is the correct dimensions for the shift lever arrangement that I made.

It's getting close.

Rich

[ROKuberski]

Right now, I'm working on wiring the new gear drive starter/with integral relay and I'm not feeling too bright.

Photos are the Fairlane wiring diagram showing the starter circuit and a photo of the starter relay.

I know that I have to abandon the wire from the battery to the left side of the relay and the wire from the right side of the relay to the starter (heavy red wires.)

I need a battery wire direct to the starter and I need the ignition switch wire that goes direct to the relay mounted on the starter.

However, there are other things attached to the original relay that still need power.

Of the two smaller wires on the top of the relay, I believe the one on the left (dark green) is the one that should go to the starter.  At least that is the one that I connect my remote starter switch to when I am using that.

I'm thinking that I also need to provide positive power to the left side of the original relay (where the original battery was connected).  That would not need to be a large wire, maybe a #14.  I'm not sure how power is available to ignition system when the key it turned on.

Anyone got any insight on this issue?

Rich

[gasman826]

wire it like a FORD.  Leave the inner fender mount relay and wiring alone.  Add a jumper wire on the new starter from the big post to the little one.  Moving all the wires to the starter just adds all the Chevy problems to your Ford.

[ROKuberski]

I still need to take power from the battery to the starter.  That eliminates the power cable to the existing relay.

I just bought a new battery cable that has an extra smaller wire at the clamp end.  Power from that wire to the left side (in the picture) of the existing relay will still power other items.  Does removing the dark green wire to the new starter relay (left of the two smaller wires) cause any issues?

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

Rich.........I don't know much about the old wiring systems, but I think what I understood Gary to mean when he said "leave the old relay and WIRING alone", he was saying that including  the supply wire to the starter from the relay as it was, just add a jumper wire to power the starter solenoid.  ??
If I understood him correctly, you'll basically have 2 relays in the system, but that'll avoid having to do a bunch of rewiring.

[ROKuberski]

Lets be specific when talking about wires.

If I take the battery cable from the right side of the existing relay to the starter, then there would be two relays activated to crank the engine.  Am I missing something?  The new gear drive starter has a starter solenoid mounted directly on it.

Rich

[RICH MUISE]

That was my understanding of what Gary said, but I am not someone you should take advise from on wiring. I had edited my above post as you were typing.

[ROKuberski]

I was getting ready to pour in the transmission oil so I can start the engine, BUT, as I was going over my mental check list, which should be on paper.   I still have to connect the coolant lines. 

I'll do the plumbing then finish the wiring issue.

Rich